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3Racing Cactus Build
Well guys & gels, My 3Racing Cactus is here from RC Mart & I think I'll do a build thread to go along with it http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif!
I looked at many. many kits for a 1/10 2WD buggy: Intech, Team Durango, Team C, Atomic & so on for my first new build of a 1/10 buggy since 1989! http://imageshack.us/a/img593/2484/ehkd.jpg Its a great bit of kit for the money, & I was surprised with the quality of the kit parts! It even comes with a set of AKA tyres too http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif I'll be running the HPI Flux Pro ESC & Motor in it (Thanks to Adrenaline models for that), Spektrum SR3100 receiver & a Power HD 1206TG sevo in the front for steering! And so on with the build we go http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s.../hahadance.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img833/9706/y95u.jpg Bag 1 is always a good place to start! http://imageshack.us/a/img15/9303/ckn4.jpg Chassis, front end, rear pin holders & steering bits! http://imageshack.us/a/img69/2474/eas6.jpg Yep nice set of bearing with the kit! Now is that what I think it is? http://imageshack.us/a/img33/9492/myks.jpg Yes it is http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/angrymad.gif! Kit come with anodised pink parts. As nice as the anodising is................it's gotta go. off to the caustic soda it is! I hate pink or purple anodising! http://imageshack.us/a/img824/1969/18x8.jpg Da composite main chassis! All nice & clean out of the box! http://imageshack.us/a/img593/987/mtcj.jpg Bet the bottom of it won't look like that soon! http://imageshack.us/a/img201/6549/nv0p.jpg Front end of the chassis is held on with 4x M3 lock nuts & 4x M3x8 flat head screws. http://imageshack.us/a/img692/4977/zxjy.jpg Screws secure from the bottom. http://imageshack.us/a/img189/3371/swj6.jpg 10 mins & some caustic soda later & that rubbish pink is gone. Hurrah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s.../topbanana.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img28/4558/fn1k.jpg You only want the larger of the alli parts, 4x M3x8 scres & a 0.5mm & 1.0mm suspension mount RF spacers. The RF spacers sit under the pin holder. http://imageshack.us/a/img30/4646/7awt.jpg And screw in to the allow from the bottom. As it's metal to metal I used a little blue threadlock just to be safe. http://imageshack.us/a/img853/6052/5w4u.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img703/9476/ec07.jpg And there we have the chassis up to now! http://imageshack.us/a/img41/2470/c9no.jpg Time to start getting the steering rack build. These parts came on a tree. So snip them off & give em a trim with a knife & start the build with screwing in the 4.8 ball studs. http://imageshack.us/a/img14/8476/qli5.jpg Just like that! http://imageshack.us/a/img24/9955/8gma.jpg & one ball stud in the left steering arm & push the M5x8x2.5 bearing in both the left & right steering arms. http://imageshack.us/a/img850/3235/3q89.jpg Place a 3.02 shim on one of the M3x12. Do two of these! http://imageshack.us/a/img18/1050/58dn.jpg Place two M5.7x5.5 bushings in the steering link. One in each side of the. http://imageshack.us/a/img12/7016/07kg.jpg Push ya screws through aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand.......... http://imageshack.us/a/img809/6538/0i01.jpg Screw down you steering arms to the link! Job done!! http://imageshack.us/a/img36/3703/1wra.jpg Now to mount it to the steering to the chassis using two M3.18 button head screws, two M5.02 shims & two M8.9.2 steering posts. http://imageshack.us/a/img266/2757/uu53.jpg posts, shims & screw go like that! http://imageshack.us/a/img14/2496/vfoh.jpg And you should end up with it looking like that. Check for binding & unscrew until till its gone! |
Felix Law ran a Cactus with Losi shocks at the 2013 worlds.
http://imageshack.us/a/img10/5695/gub3.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img822/6461/q5g1.jpg On with the build we go! http://imageshack.us/a/img844/6263/28gf.jpg Hinge pins, front arms, pin carrier & lower suspension mount red to go. Do a little sanding on the arms to get them to fall under their own weight. http://imageshack.us/a/img842/6169/fvys.jpg Push in the pins. http://imageshack.us/a/img837/4286/2dol.jpg And secure the front pin carrier with two 2.6x6 countersunk screws. http://imageshack.us/a/img199/5162/fj6l.jpg Front bumper and screws ready to bolt the front arms to the chassis. http://imageshack.us/a/img541/9485/t805.jpg Place the front suspension assembly on to the chassis & screw the bulkhead down ion place. http://imageshack.us/a/img11/9751/72cc.jpg Rear M3x16s in first http://imageshack.us/a/img89/1210/jyp3.jpg Then secure the bumper to the front end with the last two M3x16 screws. http://imageshack.us/a/img811/7093/ick6.jpg Bag two here we go! looing for the front shock mount! http://imageshack.us/a/img545/4933/v30h.jpg There it is. Ready for attachment. http://imageshack.us/a/img17/3125/a7aw.jpg A little more de-anodising on the M3x10x1.5 spacers. Slip them over the two 4.8x7 ball studs. http://imageshack.us/a/img22/5152/73bs.jpg And screw into place. I'm going with stock settings for a starting point! http://imageshack.us/a/img24/6083/09q9.jpg Put in place. http://imageshack.us/a/img11/7061/lqag.jpg Screwing to place with the four M3x10 button screws! http://imageshack.us/a/img826/474/4kkf.jpg Tower in place. Seems very sturdy. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif |
Looks like a very nice kit, and a nice build threat. :thumbsup:
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http://imageshack.us/a/img703/6089/ocfw.jpg Right up next is the front hubs. Again all nice clean! http://imageshack.us/a/img41/5109/7rg7.jpg Push in the two M5x10 included bearings http://imageshack.us/a/img29/782/ykvt.jpg Screw in a 4.8mm ball stud. http://imageshack.us/a/img5/412/91rc.jpg Push the knuckle are pins through the knuckle arms. http://imageshack.us/a/img841/176/yim1.jpg Place a M5x02 shim over the knuckle arm, then a hex adaptor. http://imageshack.us/a/img12/4661/0mli.jpg Then secure with a M2x12 hub pin. http://imageshack.us/a/img708/8241/21v4.jpg Take your knuckles and & place in the C-hub with an M2.5x7x1 plastic spacer each side of the knuckle. Push pin though & http://imageshack.us/a/img547/848/hmv6.jpg Secure with a M2x4 button head screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img407/7283/nf18.jpg Left & right hubs finished http://imageshack.us/a/img826/9647/3q5p.jpg Next up...........turnbuckles! http://imageshack.us/a/img12/962/55bn.jpg I always take a little bit of plastic out of the ends of the ball caps just for ease of starting them off! http://imageshack.us/a/img849/8619/28i3.jpg The supplied tool helps lots! Make four up & put them a side ready for mounting! http://imageshack.us/a/img542/9725/bizk.jpg Time to mount the C-hub/knuckle assembly. http://imageshack.us/a/img209/5386/xpwx.jpg Two spacers each side of the c-hub, push pin though & secure with a M2x4 screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img31/2527/v8w3.jpg Snap on you four turnbuckles and there you go! |
That looks really nice fella. And the price on rcmart seems to be very good value. How good do the plastics feel??
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looks nice but best get yourself some spare castor blocks and steering knuckles for the front of the car.
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http://imageshack.us/a/img809/3564/hcuw.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img547/2450/io19.jpg Bag 3 & we start the backend! http://imageshack.us/a/img585/3676/npis.jpg I'm building the mid motor chassis so I can do away with these gear box half's. http://imageshack.us/a/img593/8016/ww72.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img30/9694/yhhx.jpg You'll need to make up two 24T idle gears. http://imageshack.us/a/img30/1478/p7nc.jpg Lay shaft came pre-built but I still took it apart & rebuilt it! http://imageshack.us/a/img20/316/fg52.jpg Diff build next! |
http://imageshack.us/a/img833/4456/mbo4.jpg
Although the kit come with ball diff grease, I opted to use the Team Associated. http://imageshack.us/a/img35/5858/irmy.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img197/9390/ntrb.jpg Grease up both Diff half's & Place a spacer/plate over each diff half. Then put a little grease on the plates. http://imageshack.us/a/img22/8530/6jdc.jpg Put a little bit of grease on the diff balls. http://imageshack.us/a/img689/310/yqqa.jpg Place the two 5x8x2.5 bearings in the open ended diff half. One will sit inside & one will sit on top . http://imageshack.us/a/img10/3624/6r89.jpg Place your 52T diff gear over the diff half with the bearings in. http://imageshack.us/a/img600/9421/cfms.jpg The start to put your diff balls into the diff gear. I like to use the diff grease tube so the balls stick to the end! http://imageshack.us/a/img4/7360/ldl9.jpg I just put a smidgen of grease over the balls for good luck! http://imageshack.us/a/img818/118/901e.jpg Place the other half of the diff over the gear. http://imageshack.us/a/img703/161/95vw.jpg And prep the rest of the parts for putting it together. http://imageshack.us/a/img22/8650/sjq0.jpg a M10x0.3 shim & a M10x15x5 on each side of the diff. http://imageshack.us/a/img850/9976/j5rw.jpg Put a little dab of Anti-wear grease on the thrust bearing & place it over the M2.6x22 diff screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img708/9463/jdsx.jpg Put a M2.6 lock nut inside the diff nut, then place the M1.3x2 spring in the end of the diff followed by the diff nut, & place the diff screw into the other side. http://imageshack.us/a/img196/8946/bvww.jpg Tighten down all the way until its time to bed the ball diff in at the end of the build. |
http://imageshack.us/a/img845/6920/fdqx.jpg
Mid motor gear box half's http://imageshack.us/a/img541/5595/1md9.jpg Lay shaft in place! http://imageshack.us/a/img593/9814/rx70.jpg Diff & idle gears in place with grease........ http://imageshack.us/a/img29/8572/jkmr.jpg And that was my first mistake http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...fault/nono.gif . I should have given it a dry fitting as when it went together, it didn't want to close up too well. So after taking it apart once or twice I got it to close! Yay!!................er no. now there's a binding when to turn the gears. So gunna strip it down tomorrow & have little at what might be binding inside! Hmmm not happy about that bit!! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...lt/tantrum.gif |
Great build so far, but if you check the gearbox again and it still feels notchy you will probably just need to run it in a few times, I know because my Cougar was pretty bad (only took 1 race meet and it was butter smooth;))
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Maybe try loosening up the screws that hold both halves together a bit?
I'm surprised there's no pressure bearing in the diff outdrives |
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Seemed to run a lot smoother after being fully build. But it only grinds a little in a certain place when rotated. I have a feeling one if not both idle gear are a little on the poor molding side of things! http://imageshack.us/a/img407/4128/l1ft.jpg Slipper time! http://imageshack.us/a/img23/4085/u9c2.jpg Ruffen up the slipper pads a little. http://imageshack.us/a/img689/2149/g9dk.jpg Place a M2x0.2 shim over the slipper shaft followed by a slipper plate. http://imageshack.us/a/img854/8392/fuq1.jpg Push the slipper pads in place onto the spur gear. http://imageshack.us/a/img822/7336/2pt9.jpg On goes your other slipper plate followed by the spring, slipper spring ring & M4 lock nut. Tighten down all the way ready for setting it up later. http://imageshack.us/a/img17/871/j1ib.jpg You rear end should look something like this by now! Ready for the motor now! http://imageshack.us/a/img46/5637/qcii.jpg As I said at the start I going to be running the HPI Flux Pro system in this buggy. I got mine from Adrenaline Models for a great price!. I'm running a 10.5T motor in this as I didn't want make to quick or the mark! http://imageshack.us/a/img197/4673/d644.jpg Bolted in place. Something missing but can't think what http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...efault/017.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img845/5594/vrh4.jpg Hmm now where do I fit new brushes? http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/imstupid.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img856/2092/bo41.jpg Next up is the gear cover. Slot in the slipper cover & screw it in place a M3.5 screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img802/2474/oz2y.jpg Secure the gear cover to the gearbox with two M3.5 Button head screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img20/9319/mnqq.jpg Place you gearbox assembly onto the rear of the chassis & put four m3x8 flat heads to hold it in place ready for the rear arm build. |
http://imageshack.us/a/img13/4116/bjnz.jpg
Time to put the rear arms together! http://imageshack.us/a/img849/4163/8sl3.jpg Slide a hinge through the arm & place a pivot ball on each end of the hinge pin. http://imageshack.us/a/img547/6031/p4lc.jpg Push the assembled pivot ball/arm assembly in to the pin carrier. http://imageshack.us/a/img845/3170/lqli.jpg Push the rear pin carrier into place. Push the pumper into its slot & bolt into place with M3x16 screw for the rear hols & M3x13 for the front hols. http://imageshack.us/a/img11/2131/frzl.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img826/8784/69rk.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img30/9738/je41.jpg Assembling the rear hubs involves placing an M3x6x2 spacer over a 4.8x7mm ball stud & screwing it into the upright. Place a M5x13x4 bearing in the front of the upright & a M10x15x4 in the rear. http://imageshack.us/a/img196/1883/fpfp.jpg The left & right universal drive shafts are very nicely build http://imageshack.us/a/img42/7049/lpop.jpg Push them into the uprights & fit them with the hexes just like the front. http://imageshack.us/a/img545/6530/syhq.jpg Build up the rear turnbuckles. http://imageshack.us/a/img11/4865/yp6i.jpg Push the hinge pin through the hub end of the arm & place a M2.5x7x1 spacer on to the pin. http://imageshack.us/a/img843/9271/cs42.jpg Place your upright over the pin followed by another M2.5x7x1 spacer. http://imageshack.us/a/img407/600/3y74.jpg Stop the pin from falling out by fitting a M2x4 button head screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img163/4703/t4e7.jpg Bar shocks, rear end done! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif |
http://imageshack.us/a/img577/4263/nbxu.jpg
Wing mount parts! http://imageshack.us/a/img856/3270/6sb5.jpg Screw the mounts to the shock tower with four m3x12 button heads. http://imageshack.us/a/img843/1122/u7on.jpg Then place the two wing spacers over the mount & hold down with body pins. http://imageshack.us/a/img854/9841/qu6w.jpg Right time to get cracking on the shocks! http://imageshack.us/a/img856/6263/tk3z.jpg Start by trimming all the plastic parts of the trees/sprues! http://imageshack.us/a/img834/1720/zigu.jpg I'm going to be putting 1.3 pistons in both front & back but 30w oil in the front & 35w in the rear! http://imageshack.us/a/img547/7028/hykp.jpg First up fit the shaft with a 2.5mm C-clip. http://imageshack.us/a/img571/4910/u288.jpg Slide you piston over the shaft & secure it with another 2.5mm C-clip. http://imageshack.us/a/img23/9762/mniu.jpg shafts ready! Screw adjustment rings onto the shocks! Nice 3Racing emblem on the shock bodies. Nice little touch! http://imageshack.us/a/img703/7783/7i86.jpg Right, time lube up the seals & what not. Instead of the Associated green slim, I opted to try some GMK Shock Snot! It seems to have a thicker viscosity than green slime dose. It seemed to stay on the seals with ease http://imageshack.us/a/img837/7933/u9zc.jpg In order of packing into the bottom of the shock body........O-ring cover, O-ring, O-ring spacer, O-ring, O-ring cover. The screw on the bottom end cap! http://imageshack.us/a/img818/6082/tw6b.jpg Shock shaft & body built! http://imageshack.us/a/img28/8013/rku3.jpg Pre tapping the shock cap with it's bleeder screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img833/1518/qnwt.jpg Shacks filled with oil, end cap on & ball cap in place! http://imageshack.us/a/img34/9028/xojz.jpg Springs & shock ends next. http://imageshack.us/a/img802/5289/lczw.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img209/4613/xtv5.jpg M5.8x6 ball end in the bottom, Damper ball end in the top! http://imageshack.us/a/img708/2739/6tnc.jpg Front shock in place! http://imageshack.us/a/img20/2158/qafy.jpg Rear shocks in place. http://imageshack.us/a/img594/6618/ifs6.jpg & there we have it! Leccy bits next! |
Right.............mounting the servo!
http://imageshack.us/a/img38/6808/ocg8.jpg I opted to run a Power HD 1209TG servo for this buggy. http://imageshack.us/a/img96/834/0c39.jpg Servo post parts ready to be fitted. http://imageshack.us/a/img31/7209/85qk.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img440/2434/56p0.jpg Placement goes post,1mm post shim held in place by M3x8 screw. I added a wash to spread the load on the servo. http://imageshack.us/a/img40/3733/mry4.jpg The servo save parts read to be fitted. Some folk over in the states have chosen to not run the servo save & have gone with a alloy servo arm instead. http://imageshack.us/a/img199/8275/mx9z.jpg Your servo will need to be zeroed at this point. http://imageshack.us/a/img843/3834/3qh7.jpg Fit the spring, place the spring cover over that & tighten down with a M3x18 button head. Then fit the ball stud in the top. http://imageshack.us/a/img31/7807/y25y.jpg Servo arm parts ready to be put together. http://imageshack.us/a/img809/208/v4p5.jpg Servo are ready & snapped into place. I know, I know I missed a pink bit http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...efault/078.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img21/6215/pxy1.jpg In place with the bell crank side of the steering arm snapped on. Time to screw it in place. http://imageshack.us/a/img842/7823/rwmw.jpg Screw the servo to the chassis with two M3x8. |
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http://imageshack.us/a/img7/9026/8bxl.jpg Next up is the battery stopper. This fixes to the chassis with two M3x8 flat heads. http://imageshack.us/a/img21/6195/oh6t.jpg Building the swinging battery cover is next on the bill. A little cutting & trimming the spru first! http://imageshack.us/a/img856/333/ngkz.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img194/4876/wzbd.jpg After cleaning up the cover mount, slide an M3x10 though the battery cover & though a flanged tube into the cover mount. http://imageshack.us/a/img20/4153/vh62.jpg Battery tray foam in next. http://imageshack.us/a/img849/1537/5tb1.jpg I opted to fit both centre & side foams. http://imageshack.us/a/img820/2953/qyht.jpg Next locate a square peg in a square hole! http://imageshack.us/a/img547/7748/qzhs.jpg Bolt down your hinged battery cover with two M3x8 screws http://imageshack.us/a/img27/2159/wspg.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img820/4954/v9ka.jpg Locate the mid motor conversion battery post mounts & screw them into place with two M3x22 screws. The screws that came with my kit were more like M3x25's http://imageshack.us/a/img36/1501/9isl.jpg Push the cover into place...................... http://imageshack.us/a/img19/8215/jein.jpg Bolt down the battery cover with the two supplied thumb screws. I'll upgrade the thumb screws to alloy one's at a later date! |
http://imageshack.us/a/img197/2420/uqnx.jpg
DST in place for the ESC! http://imageshack.us/a/img689/4764/hj4i.jpg Set of yellow dish wheels came with the kit. http://imageshack.us/a/img5/1502/70kh.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img11/6330/z2jh.jpg Biggest shock for me with this kit was inclusion of a set of AKA tyres. http://imageshack.us/a/img34/4750/5ym1.jpg You get a set of AKA Three Rib in red compound for the front. Jared Tebo won the 2013 worlds with a set of these! http://imageshack.us/a/img703/729/ql6i.jpg And a set of Impact tyres for the rear also in red compound. Both have AKA red inserts too! http://imageshack.us/a/img202/3665/lv9i.jpg Next up.......................the body shell & it paint job! |
Just finished building a rear motor one minus paint for my son to race, he did not want to race what I race... It is was actually a nice build, impressed with the fit finish and the shocks...Wonder if they will release a gear diff and or a larger spur gear?
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Only other problem I've found apart from the gritty mid gear box is I seem to have wobbly front knuckle arm pins. When I spin my front wheels, My wheels look like they are buckled:( Just waiting on HPI to do something about my ESC. As when I fitted it to my buggy & switched it on, it would just sit flashing at me!! Got power to the servo & fan. Wouldn't go into set up?? |
Very nice & detailed build tread! Looks like a very nice kit!
Agreed on the purple anodizing! :D |
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Soooooooooo not a good colour! |
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What I was also impressed with, was the pre cut velcro.......:) These guys are thinking of the little stuff that makes a difference.. Can't wait for the release of some hopups!!
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I checked all sorts on the ESC. No change. So it went back to Adrenaline Models where I got it from & they sent it back to HPI.
Now the waiting begins. Yeah the pre-cut Velcro was good as was the 3M double sided tape. I love that stuff. Was wondering if there was going to be any hop-ups. Asiatees stock spares & kits, so maybe we might get something from them. |
For the money you might want to look at this for a esc.. SkyRC's Toro TS 120amp, I run this in 4 of my cars.. Other then a plastic case design it is damn good... I messaged SkyRC about updating the software for braking and about 3 weeks later there was a update... RCMART has them free shipping check it out...Small foot print..
http://www.rcmart.com/skyrc-30004401...m-p-36726.html |
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I know one thing, If HPI don't re-new my ESC, I've got two 1/8 HB buggies that'll be going up for sale, & I'll take my money elsewhere! |
I don't blame you... I hope it get resolved for you!!!
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Right time to finish up this build!
HPI did indeed replace my ESC. Thanks HPI/HB top stuff:thumbsup: ESC in with motor & receiver in place! http://imageshack.com/a/img9/2921/y713.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img534/9200/yvby.jpg The manual says use a 24T pinion. So I did with Schumacher braded pinion! Tiny dab of blue on the motor screws to keep them in place http://imageshack.com/a/img822/5518/vveo.jpg I chose to remover my fan off of my Flux pro ESC & see how temps go when I run the buggy. http://imageshack.com/a/img823/3342/iiri.jpg Well after running in my ball diff & setting my slipper, I'm happy to say she's up & running. Been raining here today so not had a chance to let her rip. Given her a run around the living room & she rollers just fine! I guess it's time to unveil the bodyshell & pain job! http://imageshack.com/a/img209/52/iz6y.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img31/3674/xzw1.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img12/3666/trtm.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img163/1971/sz6z.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img716/3521/qv7x.jpg |
I have to say that does look like a nice kit, out of curiosity will you have to get any spares from the states or can you get parts from over here?
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Hmm well after putting the first pack through the Cactus,
I have to say seems like a great buggy http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif But while putting the second pack through it, I flipped it on tarmac while jumping it. And this happened! http://imageshack.com/a/img571/932/4tli.jpg Excuse this poor pic. Hmm Not used to plastic shock towers, should this happen? New rear mid shock tower on the way! |
Well had to be done, I went & glued the shock tower!
Took the cactus out on the road for another spin/ Well I have to say mid motor handles fantastic on a hi grip surface. Was smiles all round:D |
Looks like a nice bit of kit for money, tempted to get one myself. Nice write up on the build too.
Not so good about the rear shock tower, but plastic will be more brittle in this cold weather. |
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Still, the tower is still holding with super glue:thumbsup: |
looks like the tower flexed and broke when it touched the motor plate. The DEX210 suffered from this in the past. A quick fix for this was to space the tower out so it had more clearance; it allowed the tower to flex without touching the motor plate so easily.
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Will look into that. I was wondering if any other kits bits would fit? |
How's the buggy going? Have you raced it yet? Very interested to see how these perform.
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It handles really nice on road. not had a chance to take off road. |
When is your first race with it?
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