Lipo Sticks
 

I saw Henga is running a Lipo stick pack and has moved the servo to the left side. Anyone else done this? If so, hows the balance? Left/Right and Front/Rear.

Thanks
Chris

I haven’t precisely measured corner weights, but ....

Left to right balance is not too far off. I raced it
for the first time last Sunday and didn't notice any
drastically bad handling problems (there is obviously room to add extra weight on the right
if need be)

Front to back was a little tail heavy so I added
60g of weight under the front shocks and now
the ballance point is just behind the center of
the car.

Alex

don't be shy, share some pics!!!

http://www.the-pred.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=458.0

It looks great to me. I really think I may do it.

Attachment 3862

Attachment 3863

Attachment 3864

Attachment 3865

Attachment 3866

looks damn good

will have to get myself a stick lipo and try this

how well does the shell fit over the servo horn?

I had to cut away more than you normally would, but I
don't think that it is too excessive. You could use a normal
servo horn and probably get away with not cutting as much
but I wanted to run a servo saver.

Also the batteries I am using are the 4900s, using the
lower capacity cells might affect the ballance of the car.

4900 = 268g
3200 = 193g

I looked at doing the same and i decided to put the servo next to the motor where the shell hasd more room for the horn and more chassis to mount the servo to.

Oh and leaving the long bent steering arm in gives the sevo a bit of protection without the need for a servo saver.

Good job though! I think it wont be long before we're all doing the same!!

Well let's see some pictures!

Could all ways use the saddle packs, this is my x10

This is how pred's used to be. It's good to see that the high capacity lipos can fit in though.

the trakpower 3200 saddle LiPo fit in the Pred without too much trauma :thumbsup:, but i have to say, the stick idea is cool :drool::drool:

Yes that should work well as long as the stearing rod goes past the
speedo. I think that the only reason I did it the way I did was to
keep all the wires between the speedo and motor short and neat.
It will be interesting to see how others manage it. Although I think
it has been done before. (another thread on "the pred")

And buy all new packs that don't fit in any of my other cars :thumbdown: The trakpower saddle doesn't even fit in my XX-4 (due to battery hold down design). :cry:


What gold paint is that? It looks good.

I have just finished changing my car to stick pack lipo. I put the servo by the motor as i said in an earlier post. It fits really well and i didn't need to cut the shell at all. I made sure i left enough room to get the motor in and out without taking the servo out. The car seems to balance really well to. Side to side nearly perfectly. Front to back is 45%/55%(with 30g of lead in the front). With sub C cells it was 46%/54% so it pretty close. 20 or 30g more should make it the same as sub C. I think this arrangement will work better in the long run as saddle packs might make the car rear heavy.


Attachment 4003

Attachment 4004

Did you not fancy running the servo like the other car towards the top of the page Adam ?

The servo fits under the shell and there's more chassis to mount the servo to at the back. And i can run the bent link which acts like a servo saver.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../th_Layout.jpg

S9551, Tamiya High Torque servo saver, one of those Spektrum Micro rxs. Wires need to be tidied up a bit (obviously the sensor harness), but you get the idea.

Here's my lipo stick pack conversion....I hope you like it guys....:D

The rear toe-in / toe-out linkage has been reinforced too as well and made a fiberglass rod support for the wing stay....:lol:

Is there an issue with the rear toe linkage being damaged?

I found the original link to be small to my liking so I changed it to a bigger one immediately.....Jeff Jenkins gave me the tip....Thanks Jeff!!!....:thumbsup:

hi all. i have made a stick pack fit my old pred (XRS) if you would like to veiw this, you can go to my profile pics. personally i cant see much in it.

i'm in the process of doing this to my x11-08. will post pics when it's done :)

Has anybody checked the weight balance side to side, or front to rear? as opposed to standard.

I have checked the side to side balance on my X10 & found that with my lightest lipo (orion 3600) it was missing 30 grams on the lipo side, with the heavier packs (orion 4800 or 5000) it was just about right.
I'd be curious to see what the front to rear balance test would reveal.

but the lipo is efra legal?:bored:

On mine the split is about 55% to the rear with Trakpower 3600.

But the question is do you want it the same as standard? If so you need to add a lot of weight going off what i've weighed everything to be.

Peter

with a 3600 i've added a total of 80g and my car is 1620g. 40g under the front shocks, 20g on the centre spline and 20g on the outside (lipo side) of the chassis.

Its not far of a standard static weight distribution but the best thing with lipo (whether using stick or saddles) is that you can add weight where you want it.

As promised, the finished car. Tried the car for the first time yesterday and it handled really well, was very pleased with it :) Will post a setup from last night onto the setup thread later on.


Thanks very much to little ben for his help and to mike for putting my battery strap design onto cad.

I have started a conversion of my X10, this weekend. Took lots of pictures ... but then lost the memory card of my camera :(
When (IF) I retrieve it, I'll post them over here.

Basically done yet:
closed all unnecessary holes in the chasis (as the Battery-slots, ...)
Drilled new holes for the servo on the left side.
I left enough space between the servo and the motor, so that I can still dismount the motor without issues .. and still have plenty of place left for my ESC and normal size receiver.

Things to do now:
taking some new pictures :(
converting the steering to the left-side link
making a new steering link and hole in the chassis.
...
Click on the picture to find some pictures I took this evening:
http://www.ludodg.com/RC/albums/Pred...s/img_0980.jpg

How did you close the battery strap slots? I've been contemplating how to do this for a few months now but have yet to come up with an idea that I feel won't get knocked out the first time I land on a rock.

well, I used some two-components silicone paste.
Apllied some on all the holes,let it dry and then some sanding (mm, make that... LOTS of sanding), to make it fit and flat.

As you do, I also hope this won't brake loose when driving the pred.
I'll test some more with this chassis and if it's reasonably strong, I'll apply it also on my X11

I recently finished a Stickpack-mod on bothe my X10 and X11.
Offcourse planning to use Lipo-battery's in them.

Here 's a picture ...
http://www.ludodg.com/RC/albums/Pred...s/img_1028.jpg

... and I published a little foto-album about the mod on this page:
http://www.ludodg.com/RC/albums/Pred..._StickpackMod/

I checked the car (X11) out as for balance.

As you can see, it's pretty good in balance:

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/Predator/St...30_640x480.JPG

I also measured the weight:
780-isch grams on the rear side and 680-isch on the front-side, which seemed pretty good for me.

But eventually I added some weight on the middle of the car, around 60 grams, and then some weight under the front shocks: 40 grams.

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/Predator/St...34_640x480.JPG

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/Predator/St...33_640x480.JPG

So the car is now around 1600grams in total