dex210 transverse shorty mod
 

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This is the finished product from my adventures with weight placement and garolite. You can read the whole process I went through in this thread and see the steps through which this project evolved. Currently I am running the buggy in mm3 on a medium grip smooth indoor clay track with good success. With just the shorty, I achieved a f/r split of 35/65. I have added 24g to the rear to achieve an 33/67 split which works very well on dirt. This is a +8mm chassis and the running weight of the car is ~1600g.
https://i.imgur.com/asqTebk.jpg
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In an attempt to get a better f/r weight distribution on my mm4 dex210, I decided to try a transverse battery orientation. I actually got the idea from these guys and xfactory. With a shorty placed as far back as it can go in an in-line configuration, I measure a 63% rear weight distribution with 84g needed to bring it up to 65% (the magic number from what I've gathered from various sources). While 84g is less than the difference between a shorty and full sized pack, I'd still like to keep the car as light as possible.

I have not yet had a chance to check the f/r balance on scales yet, but I have driven it. It felt like it had more rear grip like this than with an in-line battery placement. So far I am pleased, but certainly anxious to get this on the scales. Hopefully I can get to at least 65% rear weight without having to add nearly as much weight.

It's also interesting to note I can fit a full size pack like this as well, an important detail due to that silly ROAR rule.

https://i.imgur.com/W3LL3PG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XsiM7JT.jpg

1/30/18 Edit: Rehosted pictures. Screw photobucket.

Nice to see someone else try this too :thumbsup:

I posted a query about trying this on the Durango thread but was told to not try it :eh?: I of course ignored this and tried it anyway .

I am using the RDRP +11mm chassis and placed all my electrics inline (speedo in front of battery with cap under battery holder and receiver in front of that).

Found it had more rear grip and could balance it, as needed, with a small amount of weight (20g) up front when needed dependant on grip levels etc.

Who told you not to? And what was their reason? Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this idea and that it worked for you! What sort of surfaces do you normally race on? I run on some pretty loose outdoor tracks so I'm trying to get as much %rear as possible. Have you also weighed yours?

mind posting a link or some pics of yours?

sssssh;) dont tell everyone !!!!

bah, I don't need to worry. In America, nobody makes it much further than swapping to mid motor for a day before they hate it and swap back :lol:

Hit the scales with it tonight. With 21g of weight on the rear it came out to 64%. Not quite the gain I had hoped for, but certainly an improvement.

Hows the chassis stiffness with lopping a couple of inches out of each of the centre/chassis ribs?

TBH, i think i'd want to be using either the RDRP or the kit aluminium chassis if i was going to do that (i will do eventually, when i get round to it, i have a spare set of sidepods waiting......)

I also run mid motor and I have found it helps in being able to adjust the weight well, especially when we go indoor on low grip wood flooring or grass outdoors. A small amount of weight and it is good for astro.

Not driven it on all carpet yet, but expect a simialr reaction to astro.

Here are some pictures, minus electrics with my RDRP chassis.

As you can see I have also adapted the battery holder, by linking it via a ball joint, to the rear section to help control the stifffness. I just swap in a different battery holder, without the ball cup, if I find I want to reduce stiffness.

I looked at this layout with the alu chassis and sidepods... to me it felt on the table as if the longitudinal flex of the chassis was very bad (torsional flex didn't seem affected much). I ditched it and went for this inline layout (which has at least 65% on the back). So how do you find the flex levels affected on the DIMEC chassis' then? :) And how's the rigidity levels on your chassis FrogPrince?

I can flex it with my hands if I try, but I didn't check this before I did the mod so I have no clue on the before/after effects.

I've got something in mind now that I might want to try, but it requires a lot of dremmel work and one of those fr4 sheets. I'm feeling pretty creative right now :D

*edit*

well, I accidentally ordered a sheet of this while trying to figure out how much they charge for shipping. It turns out they don't tell you shipping costs until AFTER you buy it and they don't have a "confirm order" step! So, expect something clever from me in the next few weeks. Should be fun :)

Hi Origineelreclamebord,

before I get the dremmel out to the side pods on my 210 - can you upload some slightly bigger pictures for your car. Have you added any extra weight in front of the motor?

Thanks

With the dimec chassis would it be possible to epoxy a 2mm thick, 50mm wide strip of CF (or GF) along the centre of the chassis, under where the battery sits? There should (i think) be a bit of a gap anyway due to the length of the battery and the shape of the side pods. This should stiffen it up nicely.

I've just made the decision to strip my RTR down and stick to one car, so what i'll probably do once it is stripped is use that chassis to try a transverse battery before i dismantle it. Then i've at least got the chassis to use again if its any good! (or i can replicate it on the RDRP car i'm also running.....)

I wouldn't think a strip of CF on the bottom of the chassis would provide enough leverage to counteract any chassis flex. I would consider something along the lines of a dual deck chassis configuration... ;)

The RDRP chassis is stiffer than the stock alloy one, but the way I've atteched the battery holder to the rear section with a ball pivot means I have replaced some of the lost front-to-rear flex with a suedo top deck, but it still allows good side-to-side flex.

So, the FRP I accidentally ordered showed up today and I got to work with my dremel! Here's phase 1 of my custom chassis prototype. It's pretty sloppy at the moment, but hey, it's a prototype! Depending on how well the FRP does, I may or may not ultimately end up doing the final cleaned up version in CF.

Now I have the battery as far back as I can possibly get it. It's about 1/4" back further than it was previously.

I plan on evolving this into a dual deck custom chassis build. I have several goals in mind when I conceived this.

1. Battery back as far as possible.
2. Lighten the chassis up as much as possible
5. Design it to fit a jconcepts body instead of the hideous +8 cab forward monstrosity

https://i.imgur.com/9iyQkZl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n3oz202.jpg

1/30/18 Edit: Rehosted images. Screw Photobucket.

Thanks for asking! :) I didn't need to do too much to it - the list of changes from the stock car are:
1. Moving the shorty way back.
2. Moving the motor way back (78T Spur, 23T pinion - it's now nearly touching the gear casing, but still has room to mesh properly - you could probably also run 81T/20T though if you need a little lower gearing, and maybe, just maybe also 78T/22T).
3. I used a Cream 24g Battery stopper at the back.

The battery plate you see it a custom piece to a good surface area to adhere electronics on - it's not necessary to actually drive it like this - all you need to do is make sure the battery can't ram into the ESC (by putting a screw through whatever battery plate you have just in front of the battery).

You could still put a 20g slab of lead beneith the motor (a fellow club member is running that on his car and uses a stick pack instead). If you then still need more weight on the back, you could opt for a brass FR suspension hanger.

I will make some more detailed pictures and tell the story on the entire setup today as I'm mailing it to PetitRC :)

Edit: It's online now (CLICK)

Hi Guys, my thread of my conversion I did last year, may be of use to someone...

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109464

Not so sure, the stock chassis is pretty bendy and a 50x2mm section of CF *Should* give a fair bit of the stiffness back (compared to taking the two sections of bendy plastic chassis out.)
It'll need epoxying in, and possibly nuts/bolts (using the existing battery stopper holes.)

We will see (also depends what material i can get hold of!)

I had an "aha" moment last night as I was going to bed and realized I don't need those "wings" on the back of the top deck. Also, the deck is too high in the front for the body to go on the whole way, so I need to rework that as well.

These should also help quite a bit on this project. I'll get the final configuration mocked up today so I know what heights I need to order.

This is really getting fun :D

Finished! I had quite a bit of time today to work on my car and got 90% of the chassis work done. I still need to decide how I want to secure the battery from moving forward. My main hang up is deciding if I want to keep open the option in the future for a side by side saddle pack. Thank goodness TD made it so easy to use the front of the stock chassis to get the kickup without having to make my own!

As for the chassis, it's about 50% thicker than the stock chassis, and unfortunately feels a little heavier (I don't have a scale to check). It's pretty rigid, and take quite a bit to get it to flex. The FRP doesn't even flex, it's the molded plastic piece that bridges the top of gearbox to the upper deck. Figures. The other advantage to this chassis is the battery now sides about 2mm lower without the slope from the side pods.

And now, PICTURES!
https://i.imgur.com/RupR1sM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/L6gOJrE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DxqK9Dm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HBNwdBa.jpg

1/30/18 Edit: Rehosted images. Screw Photobucket

Dex 210 shorty conversion
 

Hi,

What is the new wheelbase? I assume you've abandoned the droop adjustment? It will be interesting to hear how it runs.

Keep up the reports.

Going to convert mine into side by side saddles today.

:p

Nice work

Just some thoughts:
You might need some more of the front sidepods to secure the front after the kick up a bit more.

What about a triangle arrangement for the front attachment behind the servo and spacers instead of what you have?

What about something like the C4.1 typ battery and rear brace holder/arrangement?

A frame to hold the shorty and enough room to hold saddles then you can use foam blocks

It's a +8mm chassis. I still have my droop adjustments.

The brace between the FRP and dimec chassis at the front is surprisingly sturdy. Before I installed the top deck I have the joint a good torque to try and deflect it and it was very stable. I'm not worried about it at all. As for the triangle, that's what I originally had, but after working with the FRP for a while, I've realized how sturdy that stuff is. I think a triangle would have been overkill. It'll break where the holes are drilled before it breaks anywhere else and that's just in an area where extra material really can't be added.

I may have time to run it today, but that depends on how smooth a job I have this morning goes.

I still have FRP left. Not enough for another chassis, but enough to want to do something else... :D

The battery is on the charger and everything is ready to go! Should hopefully be able to run a pack at the track today.

https://i.imgur.com/b4GZw8G.jpg

1/30/18 Edit: Rehosted images. Screw Photobucket.

How are you doing the battery strap?

You can't see it in the last picture, but I took a small piece of the FRP and bolted it underneath the top deck to keep the battery from moving forward. On the left side of the car I bolted another piece of plastic, only I used a battery strap thumbscrew to hold it in place so I can somewhat easily remove the battery.

I like having the electronics that far back in the chassis and I'll probably never own a saddle pack. My main concern though is with that stupid roar rule about being able to fit a full size pack. This car doesn't conform to that rule, but I could easily make it comply by moving the electronics and the FRP block on the top deck further front.

I did take the car to the track yesterday. The track had been pummeled by rain this week and was super rough and dusty. However, the back end of the car still felt much more planted than the last time I had drove the car there and the track was well groomed last time, too. The turn just before the straight is where I noticed the biggest difference. My car would swap ends if I was too aggressive on the throttle. Even down the straight the car wanted to wander and felt unsure. Now I can pull out of that turn quicker and the car felt very sure footed down the straight. No more wandering. Definitely an improvement and worth all the work! I wrecked a good few times and the chassis held up well.

I think I might have a tweak in the chassis or a misalignment somewhere. On heavy acceleration the car pulls to the left and on heavy breaking the car pulls to the right.

Do you really need to? Do the regulations state what is 'being able to fit a stick or saddle pack?' If you can put it on top of the chassis plate with double sided tape and close the body, does that count as being able to fit a full size pack? Of course they don't want to, but I would do minimal work to conform to that rule... because it's a bull!*&@ rule! :lol: :thumbsup:

Another option would be to make the battery stoppers movable to the edges of the chassis (so you CAN fit a stick pack)...

I have some 4mm GRP so I might try this and I have an extra chassis I can cut up... maybe even the stock chassis kick up

yes, that is an actual rule. Something like, the car must be able to fit a full size pack (stick or saddle) and only foams can be used to take up extra space and they can't be attached to the chassis.

Thing is, at the recent roar nats the rule wasn't actually enforced. Tessman's buggy was set up to only accept a shorty pack and still passed tech. The rule will likely change, but for now it's there.

The first part (Must me compatible with full size packs) I did now, how they specified the compatability I didn't :)

If you decide to make your own, a little trick I figured out is to hold the original chassis against the FRP and use it as a guide for drilling the holes. Put a bolt in the first hole you drill, then drill another hole on the opposite corner and bolt that one. Then you can drill all your holes without worrying about your guide moving while you drill. It worked pretty well. Just don't do what I did and try to use a bigger bit to countersink the holes. Either use button head screws or buy an actual counter sinking bit. I also cut the nose off my stock chassis flush with the front of the weight cutout.

new 210 chassis
 

dex210Nick,

any figures for the car e.g. wheelbase? weight? weight distribution - front/rear?

I'm assuming you cut the kickup off your old chassis?

Left / right problem - are the front and rear axles parallel to each other?

Keep up the experimenting.

:thumbsup:

Im wondering if I should countersink the front so that it is level with the bottom of the front chassis or just file the grp at an angle. As it will probably catch on everything if its lower than the kick up

What do you think?

Your FRP is thicker than the stock chassis right? Whats the raising of the front half and raising the gearbox going to do OR you could say lowering of the chassis?
Just change ride height settings?

Did you cut out for the diff housing?

CC44,

I based this chassis off of my +8mm chassis, so it is longer than the kit aluminum chassis. I think I measured about 280mm with rear hubs full forward and front hubs full forward. Yes, the kickup is from the dimec chassis. Fortunately the way TD designed this car it made it extremely easy to bridge the two chassis pieces without any special parts. As for the f/r weight distribution, I don't have access to scale right now.

I think I know what the left/right problem is. I think my front end is on a little cattywampus. I measured the wheelbase on both sides and one side is about 2mm longer than the other side. Unfortunately I will be out of town on business for the next two weeks so I will not be able to update until then. I will be home on the weekend to race it and maybe get a little work down, depending on how much my wife lets me work on it :)

Kiwi,

My chassis is 1/8", or ~3.125mm. The stock chassis is about 2.5mm so mine sticks out about .5mm lower than the front chassis kick up. I didn't notice any problem with it catching anything when I had it on the track. I really didn't check anything with ride height, though.

I did cut out the diff housing, so everything is mounted flush to the chassis like it should be.

Countersinking the thicker plate will practically alter the stance of the car if you retain the same shock settings. If you counteract this by adjusting the shocks, you'll find the front has more droop than usual. It's 1-1.5mm, but that's enough to notice: Especially considering the limited rear droop of the DEX as standard.

If you want to keep the edge from catching, you could use Shoe Goo, Epoxy, etc to make a shallow angled chamfer or smooth transition.

To be honest though, I'd try to keep the original thickness of the chassis if possible, as so not to alter the balance between suspension position at a given ground clearance :)

Well this is what I put together today. Pretty happy with how it turned out, looks an inbetween of the Yoko mr2 and C4.1
Ill maybe run it on Wednesday if I get out.
Road tested and it goes straight!

+11 with 4mm GRP
RDRP anti squat block 38gms? and tresrey alu bulkhead with 10 gms in that
Flipped arms and rear shocks

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...819_144145.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...819_144108.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...819_144120.jpg

There is still a bit of flex where the top deck is connected to the brace so thinking that if I have the battery where it s (battery stop behind it) then Ill look at screwing the brace to the chassis.

Or ill look at getting long turnbuckles and put ball studs in the upper brace holes where it screws to the diff house and then infront of the saddle pack position or shorter if its shorty only

looks good! What did you end up doing about your chassis thickness?

Nothing besides sand and superglue the front bit after the kick up so it doesnt catch

I have now put on some 90° lexan around the edges with velcro to help secure the bodyshell that is now too high

210 weight distribution
 

Hi all,

I've been following all the posts and even done some dremelling on my 210 but was never too sure what the cars normal weight distribution was, so I got some digital scales out & measured the cars weight distribution - the results:

Standard car in mm4, saddles down the middle, no transponder but otherwise ready to race, total weight 1,575g with 61% on the rear.

As above but the plastic rear battery stop replaced with a Cream 24g brass one - 1,596g with 61.2% on the rear (expected a bigger increase).

As above with an extra 20g sticky weight added in front of the Cream weight (i.e. between saddles and the Cream weight) - 1,614g with 61.5% on the rear.

As above but changed saddles for a shorty, all the way back - 1,548g with 63% rear.

Shorty turned around 90 degrees - ~ 63.5%.

Has anyone weighed the car with a side by side saddle conversion?

:thumbsup:

I havent weighed mine as I only have one set of scales (Id like to get 4 of those small ones) but Ill try today.

I drove mine yesterday and thought it worked really well. I need to lighten up the shocks a little but all in all it worked really well

weight bias
 

OneKiwi,

one will do - just rest one end on the scales & the other on a stand of similar height. Then swop ends. I then check that the two axle weight equal the cars total weight. Seems to work well.

:)