Thoughts on the MR2 after todays first drive
 

Well I tested the Mr2 today on our astro bumpy track
This one

After a oil and piston and spring swap from how I got it set up from the previous owner, I must say Im pretty happy with it.

I now run XRAY XB4 pistions
F 3x1.3 35wt and I think it is AE blue
R 3x1.4 27.5 and I think stock blue

I also replaced the bleed screws that one was stripped with 2mm ones

I used TD210 wheels rears was and ok easy mod to do but I found that the front axle was a mm too short and it binded up if I screwed to tight.

I ended up using a angled screw and a small spacer, there was a little in and out movement but not too much

I though I would test the gear diff I got with it as the ball diff was a bit rough. Put it in and the dreaded bark... took it out and then apart to find that there are plastic internal gears and they had skipped and were now useless (were probably a bit worn anyway)

I did miss a bit of the on power steering both with well used nanobytes and blockpass, so I will try staggered that usually give the 210 too much steering.

Ran my Bmax 2 for the first time today as well.
pretty much kit standard with the yoko 400 oil up front, and changed to 27.5 rear.
had AE yellow front springs and kit rears.
yellow cut stagger up front and yellow mini spikes in the rear.

was running on a fairly bumpy, astro and grass track, I thought it went really well. was very happy with it, but not so much my driving

I changed the rear camber as well, so that the ball stud is in the middle hole on the gearbox case with a thicker shim under it
felt this helped plant the rear end when the track got baked in the sun and became dusty and slippy

feels like it performed better than my 210
need more time to get comfortable with the car

Kit springs are blues front and rear. Metal internal gears were announced at Shizuoka and should be available soon.

http://www.teamyokomo.com/download/2...ka_release.pdf

I just took the gear box apart and 1 idle gear had a couple of teeth missing.

I had a look and I installed 2 of the vaterra metal idle gears, the gear diff would fit as well but one side is a little more square edges than round like the original yoko diff.

Tried it on the bench and it seemed to be fine but Ill have to test it on high grip to see if it holds up.

I raced mine for the first time last friday, I found it more difficult to jump than my dex210 because of the weight distribution.

I am happy with the handling, I just need more time racing the car I think.

What springs and pistons do most people run on grass?

Liked mine a lot, my first meeting with it and I managed 13th in round at Batley's North East Regional. Handling is better than the 210 but seemed to be slightly inconsistent on the massive jump where as the 210 was very controllable in the air.

Overall I think it's a superb car with a lot of serious potential.

What size of batteries do you use? I also had some mid-air issues in Dortmund some weeks ago, running rear motor with full length battery (saddles). Last year I did not experience any issues with the original B-Max2 when I used to run with shorty batteries.

Last weekend I compared my old bodyshell (nicer paintjob ;) ) with the MR body, and I sticked to the cab fwd afterwards. Steering was better and the car jumped better, too. If even an average driver like me can notice such a difference, cab forward bodies are not mumbo jumbo at all. :lol:
I've got a Finnisher on the way, which I'll probably run in mid-motor. Winter is coming!

I initially had problems until I realised how much wing angle the kit setting is so I now run it with wing mounted directly to the mounts and the spacer washers above under the R clips. Also trim at least 2 lines off the gurney and it should be much better.

Use the curved wing for mid as the square one gives to much rear in the air making the car nose up.

You will also find adding about 60g to the front via the cream weight and some lead pieces will allow the car to be more consistent

I have tried AE big bore pistons - my setup for rear and mid on grass are on petit

Did have a quick go with some TM2 pistons the weekend - they certainly let the car land off the jumps well but I need to play with oils and springs a bit more with them to get the best out of them

I use saddles, it's all I've got. In the air it's a lot harder to control than a 210 but I think it's because of a front being so light. I'll buy Cream bulkhead at the end of the month but I don't want to go too heavy.

Try it with some sticky weights on top of your servo,

sort a jump in the back yard or a park and try it with different weight until you can find the best balance.

I also thought the Cream weight might of been too heavy... I fitted it, car was much better. Added the Cream hinge pin brace and lead in the pocket of the bulkhead... better again.

:thumbsup:

Yokomo's aluminum parts should be available soon:
http://teamyokomo.com/news/order_she...2_newparts.pdf

Those are some nice looking prices as well for those things.

I have done 2 sets of the geardiff internals on high grip astro so those will be great.
Id also like to try the alu chassis as well

Id say those other things are a bit of bling but at those prices why not (prob not the battery straps tho)

Exactly my thoughts! Everything but the battery straps for me, please! :thumbsup:
IMHO, the original battery strap on the rear motor car is the best on the market. Why would anyone want to replace it with a traditional cf strap?

What Vaterra car did you take that from? The Glamis Uno?

I really don't know im afraid. I looked for the gear diff online somewhere and it suggested to buy the idle gears as well when i had the gear diff in the shopping basket.

With them in its louder than a 410 :-D

They held up fine i just need to redo the dice i have in the ball diff

I'm now very happy with the MR after a couple of tweaks. I used no 3 pistons in the front with 37.5wt oil in front and stuck 10g in the front and it was amazingly good on grass.

The turn in was better and the balance improved a lot. Unfortunately my driving let me down pushing too hard overall it's the best 2wd I've had to date.

New chassis
 

Does anyone know when the new Aluminium chassis is going to be out?

It's on preorder at www.teamyokomo.eu (michal Bok) it's supposed to arrive 2nd week of August.

Tested the yoko again and Im liking it more and more.

I have drilled yoko pistons
F 2x1.6 40wt
R 2x1.7 28wt?? (2cm 30 and 2.5cm 27.5 from a losi bottle mixed up)

I removed the weight from under the lipo but still have various sticky weights around the chassis

Im waiting for a set of AVID springs so I defo know what springs I have as Im unsure what these are:
Full colour yellow are the yoko ones but don't know what the others are. AE??

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...726_215133.jpg

That seems to be a Losi spring (To be more precise: TLR5176).

Thanks, now at least I have a base to work from till the avid set turns up (with the doodas containers, thats why I got them:thumbsup: )

Are you sure they aren't yoko ones?
The guy I got the car from said he hasn't purchased andy AE or TLR ones
Could they be the stock ones and the others are purchased after?

The picture look like Yokomo springs to me - Yokomo springs have less coils than the AE/Losi ones

Losi springs only put a small amount of paint on the top of the spring, AE big bores come with heat shrink of the appropriate colour for you to put on yourself.

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...html?limit=all

Personally i prefer the feel of the yoke springs over the AE ones as the progression of the spring is different between each brand.

Front i have Yellow, Blue and Red and Rear i have yellow, green and blue - softest through to hardest. Normally run the red spring wet and dry in mid and rear and the kit blue in the dry and yellow if its wet mid or rear.

I also played around with the pistons again the weekend and found a better setup where i could just throw the car into the corners without grip rolling - a few of my friends tried it after the meeting and said the same

Don't say that and not post what you tried :p

I can't find yellow BB on any chart... why don't they have this somewhere?

I mean they have rear shocks pink extreme soft at 4.15 on the petitrc scale and the fronts at 2.6???

Im trying yoko F 2x1.6 yok red and have R 2x1.7yok blue
Im going to try a 3 hole or even 4 hole in the rear for a little less pack.

Swaped out the cut staggered for worn nanobytes and it went even better no grip rolling

I also added 53gm under the saddles

Does it matter if a piston is not drilled evenly? I mean 2 holes on each side, what about if I do a 3rd hole inbetween them instead of doing a triangle form to them??

You might introduce a bit of bending into the shaft as the loads will be uneven. Depending on how much clearance there is (pistons to shock body inner diameter) there could be some binding. Worst case will be when the shocks are moving fastest and you start to get some packing.

I don't know how big the loads are tho, so it may not be a problem.

Try the setup i have given you first - i wouldnt worry to much about the offset in the holes as ive ran that before with durango 6 hole pistons when i drilled 5 holes and it was fine

That spring chart is a little out of date. There is no rating of the BMAX 2 springs to my knowledge anywhere unless soemone can speak japanese and ask Yokomo direct?

The BMAX 2 springs have less coils over the same length than the BMAX 4 springs so the ratings are out with regards colours etc

I bought the rear BMAX 4 green spring to try for the rear motor as i may need it on the clay next week at RHR to aid turn in - wont know until i get there as never ran 2WD on dirt before :woot:

My setup was already really close to what you gave me so we are on the same path there which is good for me as I now know Im going in the right direction.

I think ill try 4 hole rears first and see how that is.

I might retry the xray pistons and shim them up so there is no up and down movement as they are a touch thinner.

I have now put on the alu chassis and the other nice blue bits up front including the brass weight.

Loving the car and how its handling, however I see that a lot of people run the cut staggered fronts. Don't you have crazy steering?? I had to swap them out to some well used nanobytes with the outer row cut off.

I have AVID batch 2 purple, AE1.6 piston and 35wtAE front
AVID B2 white AE1.7 piston and AE32.5 rear

We have pretty long astro so that may be the reason.
What are you all using for fronts on astro?

Your right, the car has plenty of steering.
I was using green normal profile cut staggers that are aged so the compound is harder, but the astro I ran on was very high grip.
New astro has since been layed and I found using half worn yello slim mini spikes has been very good, not edgy but consistent grip.