Hot Stuff !
 

or not ?

www.tcscooling.com

got to be joking.. an onboard radiator? A good idea but abit too far for me!
I thought much more were taking the..... with their cooling systems (fridge heatsink :p and now wire heatsink....:rolleyes: ) but this just takes the biscuit.. the theory is there but if someones car is getting so hot they need somthing as extreme as this then somthing isnt right.

haha, thats ace - bit spensive though I have to say. but cool

If that actualy wrapped around 3/4 of the motor can, and they provided you with thermal paste too, then I might think, yes, it would work, but for a small plate, it is completely down the wrong end of the motor.

As far as cooling goes (TC related as we speak), the 'get it as cold as possible before racing' gets my vote, fans just seem a waste of time unless you get plenty of cold air right into the comm, as it is, most of the cooling air does nowt.

just thinking, with the like of the T2 and Corally, the whole rear end acts as a heatsink, so sticking something inbetween also seems a little, erm, odd, think they best stick to CPU cooling.

Hi,
Seems to have been developed by Richard Weatherley & co.
I have been experimenting with in car cooling, liquid cooling seems average as it can only go down the ambient air temperature, compared to Peltier cooling which can below the ambient. There are fors and against regarding the different in car cooling solutions.
I have though, gone back to the ''the 'get it as cold as possible before racing' '' philophosy and created a Motor freezer. This seesm to work increadably well. Pics attached. PM for more details.

Regards

Ross

Where do you get a peltier like that ? how much ? seems to work rather well - I had a go on the muchmore one when I was at the Euros and it got the motors cold but certainly not freezing (but it was a hot day)

You can buy peltiers on ebay, but the problem being, the colder the one side, the hotter the other, plus you GOT to keep the hot side cooled. I would definately go for a peltier if it wasn't the rip-off cost of the muchmore one.

Steve thing about the sarnie for a second

surely if the face to face contact is good enough then the 3 bits become a thermal one - all cooled by the bit in the middle in this case.

Do you think we need paste ? we dont use it with a normal motor plate and that certainly gets warm ?

I spoke to Richard this morning and he has data that proves it works.

We will soon find out for sure.Not sure if it's a big deal in offroad but I know my Pred can run hot with a wilder motor in it. If I was racing Tc in 27t or 19t at nationals and it does work as advertised then I would HAVE to buy one.

my pred was melting the solder every run at oswestry this year, not because it was a pred but because it was hot. My B4 even melted.
Its a cool innovation, they just need to make one for brushless ESC's now too! hehe

Your B4 melted going the speed of light jimmy! bloody fast that was :p

they do. . ;)

Oh ! I guess they must then! I guessed that just meant it was a different shape or something, but if its a heatsink for the actual ESC then thats cool (!) shame they dont show a pic of it tho.

Jimmy - i think we are at cross purposes - the TCS for brushless systems is a beefed up version of the TCS for brushed motors - it's not something for the heatsink on the ESC.

so in answer to your question, they do. and they don't! :eek:

Confusion reigns supreme! :D

I managed to burn my fingers on my LRP sphere ESC, so bring on the ESC version!

I agree, but heat dissipation is done as a 'radiated heat', as coming off from a rather hard run with the tourer, even my chassis gets warm, but it isn't acting as a heatsink, it is just picking up the heat from the motor radiating heat outwards, thats why I am not a great fan of, erm, fans.

The issue with mounting it on the end bell is that there isn't much metal there, you will get a small reduction, but not nearly as much as a liquid jacket round the can, just think about your Car engine, if you just put a cooling jacket on the front or side or bottom of the engine, it is far less effective than a cooling jacket that a modern engine has.

Thermal Paste, tell you what, go pop the air cooler off your CPU, clean the thermal paste away, put the cooler back on, then run a diagnostic with the comp running, then put fresh paste on and check again, you will find a significant difference.

I am not deniying that this is a clever design, just don't think the implementation is done correctly.

I am not sure if I am allowed to tell you if you are right Jimmy. But you are obviously going to get something extra for the extra money ;)

i build pumps for a living that will last about 10 seconds the radiator idea for starters how much waters in there or cooling fluid an egg cup full that aint gonna take long to boil is it and then the hoses blow off spraying coolin spaff all over the electrics cool :D

what if.... A genius person made a 'jacket' that fit round a motor, that you stick in the freezer, and it freezes, then you sticfk it over your motor as you race, and it keeps temp down LOL

Do you have a freezer with you when u race?

Hi,
I have been contemplating a motor 'Jacket' as the motor freezer is more than capable of cooling it down. One thing is the air restrictions by blocking the vents, this could be go round though by leaving holes. I would have thought copper is the best bet as a material. I have a bit lying around, might knock one up. Think it may have to be two piece,or somehow clamp on.
Any ideas?

Ross

i take everything but the kitchen sink DCM :D

Why don't you guys give it a chance before all the negativity? If you don't want one, don't buy one.

If cooling the can doesn't work, then why do people cool it with the much more dongle thing before a race? :confused: :confused: :confused:

G

The muchmore item is suppose to be left on for a good 30mins at least, this will happily drop the core temp of the stack, windings, magents and can quite considerably, but then you haave to keep it cool during the race.

Maybe look at CPU tech and go for copper stacks, they are attached to a copper heatsink and funnel the warmth upwards...

What about this?
http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...864&fullsize=1
Cant find much info on it, but some rekon it might be liquid cooled :confused: .
Wonder if it holds dry ice/Liquid nitrogen?


Ross

It is liquid cooled, a similar idea to the original post, but implemented in a better manner, as it cools the can far better.

My friend has the much more coller, and if left on for long enough, ice builds on the motor, I shall be buying one of these;)

Tcs
 

Looking at the Team Brood item, it is clearly an air cooled heatsink. It's difficult to design heat sinks which do not damage the motor label or whos thermal conductivity is not spoiled by the label. As a result the makers claim 30F improvement.

TCS liquid cooling lowers motor temp 50F and forms a permanent installation into the car without obscuring the motor label or affecting normal motor installation

Additionally air fans draw 1.3watts of power per fan, whereas a TCS only uses 0.4w.

A TCS therfore gives considerably more cooling than anything else available for less power usage.

More technical information available http://www.tcscooling.com/data.html

Richard Weatherley

Hi Richard, is LRP a distributor (in europe) or the manufacturer ?
Is there a ESC heatsink version in the works ? some of the latest ESC's (brushless) are so high with all the heatsinks AND fans

Actually my RCR racing thermo cooler runs off a 12 v battery, puts ice on the motor, so technically, it takes nothing from my batteries, and is therefore more efficient:D

I would be convinced if I got one to try, 19T indoors, gets them motor stonking hot....

Well, worth a try isn't it, and I would be brutaly honest on the results....

smooth:D

hey, you don't ask you don't get.... and Richard can only say yes or no..... heehee

Steve, will you paint me a bodyshell for free?:D

Steve steve, sponsor me sponsor me, please :p

Pre-cooling devices

We have tested pre cooling devices (peltiers) and this is what we have found.

This assumes that the motor is cooled long enough to get down to 0 degs Celcius, before a race ...

It is usually about 2 minutes between removing the cooling device and placing the car on the track having fitted bodyshell and walked to the rostrum etc. Then ideally you must run about 1/2 a lap to check the car and trims and get the driver ready etc.
(Please note that during the initial running the brushes suffer excess wear due to condensation on the comm)

Approxiamtely another 1/2 minute has to be used waiting for the race start. During this time, a typically 2 or 3 minute total period and a short run, the motor is rising in temperature and at the start of the race will have risen to about 10 degs (assuming normal ambient temp of 20C)

Due to the fact that there is a bigger temperature difference between the motor and surrounding air temperature, compared to a non pre-cooled motor, the motor's temperature rises more quickly.

At around the 3 minute mark the motors temperature rises above that of a TCS cooled motor. By the end of the race the motor temperature will be 5 to 10 degs lower than a completely un cooled motor. Although about 10 degs hotter than a TCS cooled motor.

Using TCS will lower your motors temperature between 15 and 30 degs

Of course you could use a TCS, fans and a peltier in combination, but if you had to choose a single item for maximum performance the TCS does out perform all of the other devices.

The TCS is also pleasing and effective to work with because you don't have to keep fitting and removing the device. Once TCS is installed it just gets on with its job. With a TCS installed the motor temperature is also much more constant and therefore a good setup is easier to achieve and the motor feels the same throughout the race, with no fading.

Richard Weatherley
TCS

Let me test one, go on, please!!!

Paul, Ben, I never NEVER do freebies, but some do get some serious discount....

As this forum predominently caters for/is used by off road racers, has this been unit been tried in an offroader, does it fit, where would you mount the cooling rad or is it only targeting on road cars? Space does appear to be very limited in many offroaders these days!!

Must have been tried in the pred surely ? Though I guess it really needs airflow over it to work so not sure where you'd mount the radiator.

It would look ace in my Tamiya F-350 though! :o

in the pred they mounted the Rad on the outside of the shell/chassis at the front, opposite side to the servo link.

hmmm, I dont think it takes lke 3mins from pit table to track, not at my club anyway, its more like 1 min from pit table to race beggining;) Plus the RCR racing system adds no weight to our cars;)