NBU Turbo Optima Celebration Restoration
 

Well guys and gals, I was super lucky to get what I call an NBU Turbo Optima Celebration, which stands for; Never Been Used.
As some of you know I was looking for a Turbo Optima for quite some time and ended up buying two before this one. Those two have parts missing, are all scratched, wrong parts, etc.

Well lucky me, this one is not only complete, and is not only new, but it is also celebration and without even the slightest mark or scratch!!!

The buggy does need wheels and tires, the correct bumper, new deck, a new body with decals, correct MSC with resistors and the Le Mans 240S motor, which since is a Celebration chassi I might keep a very good condition 240SB and install on it since is also goldy look.

Anyways less writting, here are some pics:

NBU Turbo Optima Celebration
 

More pics:

The buggy has universals all around, I do have a pair of Option House gold universlas which are going to the front. It is also equipped with a rare one way front differential and is belt driven.
These pics shows the side guards "modified" for 8.4v battery pack, fortunately I do have a pair of new side guards for the project.

Some parts I have for the restoration, more ebay endless nights for the ones missing!!!

Side guards are replaced!:thumbsup:

Le Mans 240SB installed:thumbsup:

Old Tamiya RS-540SD motor.

I also removed the wing mounts.

Option House gold universals on front installed :D

Well enough for tonight!! Gonna grab something to eat!!!

Nice looking Turbo there mate, I didn't know there were gold universals. You could use the correct screws off the other two cars with parts missing.


Keith ;)

Yes it needs a lot of screws replacement for factory ones. Seems that the previous owner went buying and installing a lot of good option house parts and some screws and aftermarket parts like the deck.
I honestly hate the deck, even if it where unmodified, will replace it soon.
I just hope the Turbo Optima that is on its way does have a bumper and deck in good condition.
I wont even bother also to disassmble the chassis since is never been run, when I removed the front universals the bearings where clean like the where installed yesterday.

Keith,
Answering your question about the gold shafts, Kyosho made the W5062's for the Rocky and Raider but they are the same exact lenght of those of the Optima. Ironically Option House Optima's swing shafts weren't gold, but rather chrome or black if I am correct.
Here is a link of ebay shafts where I just bought a pair for the rear;

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=251280800174

Wow this is a great project

Have you tried putting on the hexes and wheels with those gold universals, my understanding was that the dimensions are not quite the same and there is extra length after the thread

What did those wing mounts come from?

Also, those gold kingpins look so cool, were they on it when you bought it?

Thanks man!

Uhmmm.... I didnt noticed they where longer until now!!!
Since I have no wheels I wasn't aware of that. I just checked and you are correct, they are longer. The distance from the joint to the dog bone end are the same, but the distance from the hex to the thread end is actually 2mm aprox. 0.075" longer. This last overlenght can be cut, but there is also some play on the bearing area. Seems that it will need about 1mm in shims to stop the excesive play.
I will cut the 2mm of the extra thread and shim between the hex and bearing and between the bearing and the universal joint accordingly. Since I already bought the extra pair for the rear it is justified and it will be unoticeable, besides the look of the bright gold shafts is totally worth it!!!
The king pins where already there. I've seen them before in other models but never knew a part number nor who made them.
The wing mounts look that they where made for the Optima, I dont know either who made them nor nothing, they just came with the buggy.

Just noticed, even the kingpins are gold!!

Hi Nick,
The king pins are actually a two part piece; gold anodized aluminum top with threaded steel piece, they look nice.

Sorry about not buying the motor, since I got the Celebration it seem logical to install the SB instead of the S, but thanks anyways for your interest in helping a fellow collector!!!

I was thinking of getting the steering knuckles and chassis protector anodized, opinions? Or getting the black plastic knuckles so that they will contrast with the rest of the chassis and shafts..????
I also was tinkering with the idea of buying Pargu's aluminum wheels and anodizing them as well, again opinions????

You won't be able to anodise the knuckles as they are cast aluminium, I can tell you this from experience, the ones on the front of the SE-X had an attempt at anodising however the guys didn't realise they were cast because I had polished them. Hence why I re-polished them and used them as is

Regarding the front unis, you can always buy flanged bearings for the knuckles to take up the extra space, I actually used a pair of flanged bearings for the outer bearings on the SE-X knuckles to save me having to use shims

I've got a gold celebration chassis set myself NIP hence why I am watching this build with great interest, I want to put the LE-MANS 360 gold in mine

Nick if you are reading seeing as the 240S is still up for sale PM me and maybe we can work something out if it is brand new

No knuckles anodizing... :thumbdown:
Well, I gave it some thought and for the kingpins and the shafts to really shine the best thing to do would be to replace the aluminum old looking knuckles with new plastic ones. I Also installed a new deck and reinstall the aftermarket bumper, not original but good looking.
Here is the finished product

You can always polish the knuckles like I did on my SE after removing the cast marks and the raised section on the front

Looking good optiman :D

Almost as good as mine.

:D

Keep it up! You have a stellar collection in the background.

Thanks!!! I am very happy how is ending up. I've really not done much rather than interchanging parts, but sometimes ones deserves a brake from meticulous cleaning of parts and overall restoring.

I think I will keep the black plastic knuckles, the Gold/Black look suits me better ;)

Next are the wheels and tires, new clear body with decals.
I also decided not to add electronics; bare chassis with the only electronic part being the motor. No wires or servos to deviate the view from the gold and black ;)

Some bling decals added:wub


And a pic taken from the web of how I would like the Optima to look when finished.

I just got these new aluminum wheels & tires from ebay. As soon they arrive they will get gold anodized, afterthat a new body with decals and a place among the others ;)

Who will you be getting to do the anodising?

Found a local company who will do it for me, about $100 more or less.
Here is another shot of the wheels/tires.

Those are the Pargu wheels right?
If you ask before you order Pargu can anodise them for you for a little extra, thats how I got the gold ones on my SE done

I just ordered another set but this time in blue for another project

Well... I got the wheels and tires from a ebay seller, not Pargu, so that one I missed. :(
But in the other hand the wheels came with new ultra hard to find W5031 & 34's so I guess I got extra points on the build there :thumbsup:

Here are some pics of the rear shafts and wheels and tires, borrowed from my TOMS, until the aluminum's one come.
I do have to say the gold shafts with the black gives the buggy a couple of show points:thumbsup:

Oh and I already replaced those two rusted screws that hold the motor guard :thumbdown:

Looking crisp.

Looks very nice Optiman. I might have to get my universals anodized seeing as the gold ones are slightly longer and I already have these ones anyway.


Keith ;)

The gold universal shafts have the incorrect dimensions in three areas: where the joint meets the ball bearing, the shaft lenght of the bearing area and the lenght of thread. These fixes are completely doable, I mean easily corrected on a lathe, but since you only notice when steering all the way to lock position(you can feel the missalignment of the universal with the kingpins) I wont even bother. Also this Optima will be not a Queen, but rather a KING shelfer so another reason not to bother. Damping the suspension dosent make any difference, only when steering. If for some reason I would run it, I would just adjust the servo travel not to go to lock position and thats it ;)

Finally!!!!!
The wheels and tires arrived!!!!!! What a looooong wait...
Next step is to get them gold anodized.

While I was waiting for Goldie's new shoes to arrive I picked up a decent shape TO. It needs some work, but all the important parts are there; gold shocks, 240S, chassis protector, stabilizers, etc.. It is missing one stabilizer link, a few bolts, the gear cover, the counter gear and the final gear. Those last two I have spares, the other parts missing will get them from ebay. The worst part is the front, it shows signs of a brutal impact that destroyed the front brace and bend the skid plate. The bumper is deformed where it attaches to the skid plate, but has almost no scratches and the front is not deformed. Most probbably it will look right once I repair the skid plate.

Upon inspection I saw minimal wear on the TO; tires are 95% thread left, no scratches on the wheels or dirt. Very few scratches on the bottom and the motor's com and brushes are still shinny and new looking.
My guess is that it belonged to a little kid because I found kid stickers on the Le Mans. The boy or girl used for a maybe a day on the street, crashed the OT very hard into something and then Dad just removed the buggy from the little kid's hands before any more damage could be done.

Anyways here are some shots of the "new" OT

Le Mans 240S Inside! :thumbsup:

Some shots of Goldie with her new shoes :wub

It'll look even nicer with wheels in gold, good to see you got the 240S motor for it as well.

Good pick up with the other Turbo too, the front damage is probably the worst I've seen. Looks like "dad" spent all the time building the car and "junior" who probably had never driven an RC car before, hit the first immovable object at full speed, poor TO. :( Awell, at least it's repairable.


Keith ;)

Thanks Keith!

Yes, can't wait to get them anodized, but I want to anodize other parts that I have been cooking behind doors sometime now that are not ready yet and want them to anodize all in one deal package.
Also managed to buy a Le Mans 480Gold on ebay last night for $50 bucks, the description said used, but looks mint and unsoldered with box and everything.
So I'll be replacing the 240SB for that one, MORE GOLD for Goldie!!!:thumbsup:

Yes, that frontal damage is brutal! I also never seen one that bad before. I crashed my Optima when I was a kid, several times, and hard, full throttle impacts and never managed to break the brace like that... But in the other hand this one is Turbo, so frontal impacts are also forced injected!!! LOL:lol:
Will have to inspect everything throughly thou, may be bent somewhere else.
About the 240S, man that motor is pretty looking, is eye candy! Now that I have the 480G, my two favorite Le Mans motors I can rest my endless searches on ebay.... For now... ;)

Looking good

I have a NIP Gold Celebration chassis set and will most likely build mine up next year. I have the motor guard too just need the W-0102 side guards

The motor I have bought and put aside for it is the 360 Gold

Looking gorgeous mate!

lee

Thanks man!

Well I have... could I say bad news?...
First "bad" news; I mounted the aluminum wheels in Goldie, I mean tighten the nut all the way in, something I have not done yet until last night. Well simply put, the wheels won't come out!!! Talk about tight clearances!!! I dont know if the hexes being new and the wheels being new has to do with it, but as I was tightening the nuts on each shaft I could feel the tight fit between the two. I tried VERY hard to pull them out and they wont even move, NOTHING. I tried pressing down the nut with the plastic part of a large the screwdriver while pulling on the outside of the wheel... NOTHING... they are there to stay now. SHI.....!:mad:
Anyways, will have to figure something out with a puller that will not damage neither the wheels nor the shaft.

And now the bad news;
The OT I picked up on ebay has to be the worst built Optima there is... hold on to your seat and read so you can enjoy my pain while I describe the damages LOL

The buggy looked normal upon first eye inspection, so I began to remove the wheels... bang!! First weird thing!!! The hexes where placed wrong side in and where embeded into the shaft with slight damage. As I pry them out with a flat screwdriver I also noticed that the buggy had no outside ball bearing, they where missing on all four corners, bang! Also one of the dogbones was missing and another was bent real bad and eaten almost all the way due to shaving into the c hub, so imagine the C hub's condition...Bang!
The rear shock stay was mounted with small fine thread screws, like the ones used to hold the steering!!! The shims that where supposed to be used on the wheel shafts where used instead as washers for the rear transmission screws!!! And the best for last.... plastic thread screws for holding the aluminum plates to the ladder bar chassis BANG!!!! SHI...:mad:

That is of what I remember, but I mean I could actually feel a small tear running down my cheek as I dismantled the buggy. There was no symmetry what so ever on the screw and nut selection, awfull build!!!

So to get the story right; Not only Junior crashed the OT into an immovable object full throttle down, but he ALSO build the buggy and dad only payed for it. Because of the missing dogbone and the condition of the eaten one, dad did not do nothing to avoid further damage he just watched junior beat the crap out of the OT until the OT just ceased to keep running!!!!! But I like junior, he build the buggy himself and played with it, that is how is supposed to be:thumbsup: Now I am going to take care of this war hero and restore him just right!

Man... next year?!! How can you wait so long?

If you managed to remove the nut but not he wheels try to gently hammer the shaft.

Yes, thanks for the advice! Maybe a controlled impact on the shaft while hanging the buggy from the wheel will do.
Will try that as soon I finish working with my other hobby ;)