kyosho RB6 Durability...
 

Im thinking about changing chassis, from the Cougar Sv2 to the RB6 due to the cougar being so brittle. Im breaking something nearly every run yes my driving does need improving, but most the impacts aren't to severe. My question is how do other racers find the durability of the RB6? I've seen some serious crashes in meetings and they just seem to stand up to almost anything... haha

Almost I've bent a shock shaft an snapped a hinge pin&holder rear bulkhead after a wall jumped in front of me back wheel at full chat and a hub I'm well impressed my drivins sh#t the amount a cartwheels it's done an keeps on rollin :thumbsup:

sounds good i need something that can take a bashing. I did a cart wheel with my sv2 stripped servo horn and snapped shock shaft, think its time that ebay takes it off me.

With the Losi 22, the RB6 is one of the strongest. RB6 out does the 22 on performance though, especially in the damp/wet IMHO.

Sounds very promising indeed, is there any upgrades i would need out of the box to get it running well?

Pretty good out the box. Contact Tony at Rudebits or Kev at Insidelineracing for tips and. Spares.

I got bigred's bulkhead and rudebits shorty tray and an exotech steering rack with a few set up tips from mr mills I got my average a second away from my fastest in three heats last time out :thumbsup:

Damo they're one tough car! The steering rack is probably the only weakness which I've replaced with the exotek one. It's an expensive car to get just for the toughness. Like someone else said I've had a 22 in the past and they're an absolute TANK, so that would be be your cheaper option and be a good car for you to learn with. But if you don't mind forking out £370 for the rb6, I can't say enough good things about it

Hmmm your right it is alot to fork out, but from everyones opinions on the car it does seem worth every penny. At the moment im forking out a fortune stocking up on schumacher spares could of put a fair bit towards the Kyosho! I think it could be a wise investment!

It's a very robust car, i have plenty of 'mishaps' on track and I've only broken a front camber link turnbuckle... In a head on flying collision with a 20kg weight plate at Silverstone... I was driving like a total t!t so was amazed it didn't do more damage.

I too have replaced the steering link for durability but I never actually broke the kit part. Stuff like the diffs and shocks too, the maintenance is so minimal that you'll forget when you last rebuilt the diff and which oil you put in the shocks! Or maybe that's just me :blush: recommended!

You're right Adam! Shocks and diff are a once every 6 meetings for me! Oooppppsss! :woot:

heres a pic of the rear bulkhead were doing fitted, ours is the red one the silver one is rich Drury's

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...59432117_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...90264285_n.jpg

You lot have twisted my arm and ive forked out the 370 pound lol Gav think ill need a setup to start off with for bury please. If thats alright with you... :thumbsup:

Well I use losi springs for a start. I'd suggest trying kit set up first with black losi front and pink losi rear, that way you know how it feels out of the box and then from there you can change things. Buy the longer ball studs too, the standard ones are too short for the front hubs and come out

Ok will do are the black springs the 4.1 rate 16mm?

Think so yeah

all mattys setups are here

Cheers guys! Ill check these out. Hopefully my new shiny car should arrive at some point today.

As the Guys say its a strong car,
I would say one really important option is:-

K.UMW701ALUMINIUM STEERING PLATE ULTIMA RB6

For some reason the plastic one that comes with kit gets broken easily.

Thing is though, the kyosho part is £18 compared with the yaiba steering rack from JE models which is £7.49
http://www.jemodels.com/electric-mod...tegory_id=1285

I like the kyosho gunmetal, but I definitely need one of carls rear bulkheads, brilliant idea :thumbsup: Does the bulkhead come in kyosho gunmetal as std?

hi dan no they are just plain alloy as std but I can anodise them black blue red or violet at the moment or polished alloy, don't have gun metal but I can get any colour if you order it I will get it even neon pink

I've got the yaiba racing part on my rb6 does the job nicely

I've got the exotek one on but that's only as I'd not heard of yaiba one before I got it

Hi, i am pretty new in the rc world, started out 2 years ago with TA B4.1, i cracked towers, front,and rear arms. even the chassiplate. So i was really wondering if the rc sport was something for me.

Last year i did alittle bit practising with DEX410, no 2WD. I began to drive pretty decent.

1 week ago i bought a used RB6 with electrics, 6.5T motor.

I have used about 7-8 battery packs with it, and not one single part is broken. And our track is pretty though www.ihrc.no

The best drivers uses 29-30 secs with 2WD, today i had 32.3, probably my PB, ive raced alot without timing so i dont really know, but i feel it was one of the fastest lap ive run.

But to this thread i must say i dont belive RB6 is any weaker then TLR 22 when it comes to durability. Ive had a couple of high speed crashes, and a few tower bumps after the jumps but nothing cracks.

Im totally KYOSHO fan from now on. But i dont belive im ready to swap the DEX410 for an Kyosho 4WD, or should i? :)

No the 410 is supposedly better than the zx5 stick with the two cars you've got

Well I finally broke something on my RB6...

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87...ps7ee333f9.jpg

Ouch! :blush:

That's impressive Paul :lol::lol::lol:

wow amazing lol, the rear arm didnt break?

one word Paul
ANIMAL:thumbsup:

Isn't it just :thumbsup: why couldn't I just break a cheap part?


No the rear arm was intact, the inner hinge pin was slightly bent I found later and has now been replaced :)

I aim to please :thumbsup:

To be honest I didn't think I'd hit it as hard as I obviously did, I came over Batley's double jump and was aiming to take a wide line to get a better exit after watching some of the quick boys, but I went to wide and hit the track side marking as it landed. Must have hit square on the rear wheel with the above result. At first the marshal thought I'd just popped the driveshaft and as I'd just switched the rear arms from stock RB6 to the RB5 in between rounds in a bit of a hurry due to rounds running on auto I thought I'd got the droop wrong when changing the shock bottoms. It appears not lol :)

Actually looking at the picture a bit more I wonder if the nylon insert dropped out in the rushed rebuild?
I didn't spot it afterwards on the track but that said it could have been there as I wasn't really looking for it. Might explain the failure of the block rather than the arm? :eh?:

You should have used the steel version of the suspension bushings instead of LAW32. I dont think the suspension hanger will break with them... :)

I thought if you were running the alloy hangers then you had to use LAW32????:confused:

The hanger can break wether you use LAW42 or steel bushing, the alloy is quite thin on the outside.
New ones can be stronger.

I like Delrin bushings better (less slop) but can wear quicker so need to be changed or at least something to take care of.

The steel bushings will wear the alloy hangers, the delrin bushes get worn by the alloy hangers ... it's all about setting up the correct bearing combination for wear and fit.

Kyosho don't these things by accident you know ;)