losi 22 set ups
 

hi all can people put there losi 22 set ups here for astro / carpet

here is mine

Front suspension
Toe +1
Ride height 21mm
Camber -1 deg
Caster 5deg
Kick angle 25deg
Sway bar no
Oil 27.5
Piston 55
Spring black
Spindle type trailing
Shock limiters 2mm
Shock location 2 on tower outside on arm
Bump steer 1mm on spindle
Camber link 2 with no spacers

Rear suspension

Toe 4 deg
Anti squat 3 deg
Roll centre lrc
Ride height 20mm
Camber 2 deg
Rear hub spacing foreword short
Hex width stock
Sway bar no
Oil 22.5
Piston 54
Spring yellow
Shock limiters no
Camber link 1 with 2mm under and E with 2mm under
Shock location 3 on tower/ outside on arm
Battery saddle

Tyres Schumacher yellow cut staggers mid insert front
Schumacher yellow mini spike soft insert rear
next time out will be
front oil 37.5 black spring 55 piston
rear oil 32.5 pink spring 54 piston

think it might be to stiff thow

Have a look at the link below. Personally I like Darren's silverstone set up.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/Se...TwentyTwo.html

forgive me i cant find it :eh?:

Lol it's under a different name :)


http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...SRMCC20121110/

lol thanks got it now .also could any one let me know what affect putting spacers under the front camber link on the front does as it would apear most people are running up to 2.5mm

It will alter the roll centre of the front. From my experience with the 22 less or no spacer under the inner ball stud will make the front end bite less thus making the car slightly less aggressive in high grip conditions. More spacers under the inner ball stud will do the opposite making the car feel more direct and aggressive.


Chris

got ya thanks

It will alter the roll centre of the front. From my experience with the 22 less or no spacer under the inner ball stud will make the front end bite less thus making the car slightly less aggressive in high grip conditions. More spacers under the inner ball stud will do the opposite making the car feel more direct and aggressive.


Chris

Mate, doing a good job. Keep asking and discussing cause i find it really interesting to see what other ideas people have, awesome to have different outlooks! Cheers

For got to add to my set up the only weight I run is the cream one

I didnt realise adding spacer inside would incease the "grip" on front end but wouldnt that cause more bump steer?

Hi there yes it changed the angle of the wheel wene the car leans over giving you more front end grip as for bump stair yes it could do but not 100% on that I run no spacers on the chassis side and 1mm on the stering side . Bump steir is not always a bad thing ether so long as its not ridiculous like it can be on old tamiya cars hope this helps

Help needed peaple right the
rear of my 22
I have gone up in oil from 20 oil to 27.5 oil to stiffen the rear up
No change to position off shocks so tower out side hole and wishbone out side hole :-) fills lots stiffer

Haw ever I then change shock position to middle on tower and inside of wishbone like peaple have sir-chested I do
Then pushed car down and to me it fills a lot softer almost to the point it fills like there is 20 oil in there but I no there isn't could some one shed some light on this for me I'm sorry if I sound like a dick but I am confused

You need to use middle holes top outside bottem don't ever change this , try the 6 hole inserts in rear . Once you have a setup that works don't change it just spring rate , and a good pair of thumbs :thumbsup:

Why?

If it ain't broke don't try and fix it :p

?

so far your advice has been very poor, and if you cant back it up then maybe keep it to yourself.

All I'm trying to say is when you have found the right setup ON THE DAY just try racing the buggy. Easy for me to say I could drive a shoe box fast :thumbsup:

On advice from another oOpler, the ignore function makes the losi thread so much better. :thumbsup:

Give that boy a pack of oreos! great suggestion :D

I like that suggestion!

Getting back on topic, are many people still running theirs with the front outer ball stud mounted on the spindle carrier? I found it really settled down the steering and made it more predictable.

Did bloomers start that idea . Not seen it for awhile . But if its working stick with it . :thumbsup:

Took car out today at yatton club Was a top day set up was as first post but front oil was 32.5 and dropped to a blue spring rear was 27.5 with pink spring mini pin yellow rear and cut staggers on wid rim medium inserts frond and back car was awesome would of had my first b final win if my speedo hadn't of stop working :-( but I ges that's racing .also managed my first ever 20 laps in 5 mins with a 14.8 sec lap well happy with that

This thread has been moderated.
Children, please don't let him wind you up.

Robby, you are being watched. Please consider how your tone comes accross before pressing the submit button.

I think so - there was a great deal of talk about the mod soon after the TLR22 came out, but as you said, not heard/seen much about it since.

I have to agree with comments on a similar thread about the Cream weight - single biggest transformation to the car :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Just need to get some blue front springs/pink rears, and maybe a bit of extra driving talent :lol::lol:

get silver front and yellow rear as these are commonly used aswell

I had great results with green front and pink rear springs on carpet this past weekend. 30 wt front and 25 wt rear with 2 hole 1.6 pistons. Front shocks middle on tower and arm. Rear shocks middle on tower and outside on arm

Rest of my setup posted on my blog

Thanks for sharing Bob.

If you don't mind - I just want to quote a line from your blog that I think speaks volumes and is sound advice to us all.

"By keeping the car consistent I forced myself to take advantage of where it was working well and adjust my throttle or braking to get through areas where it wasn't ideal"

IMO no setup can be 100% perfect on 100% of the corners or 100% of the track surface. Making the car consistent is the best way of then being able to adapt - making the most out of where your car is fast and protecting yourself in the areas it isn't.

Couldn't agree with you more.

Bob's blog is worth a read

Bob would you post your blog here our a link to it as I can't find it

Here you go

http://rczahn.blogspot.com

Thanks will have a read later .

Here here!

we all drive in different ways, it's all about getting the most out of what we have, being in harmony with the car and being consistant.

When i came back to hobby a few years ago i asked advice on mid motored cars from one of he UK's top drivers... he told me to stay on throttle as much as possible rather than sudden braking.... this really works, you have smooth weight transfer and find a lot more grip....

Keeping a cool head and recovering from mistakes quickly will see lap times drop too.

It's worth more for consistant lap times to practice with car as much as possible than spending out on bling newest parts and tweaking every setting between races

I've never found anyone elses set up the perfect cure, but understanding the theory and what each of the setting changes does to the car makes life a lot easier.

TBH the most important setting is tyres, having the right tyres at right time with track conditions is worth much more than having the same coloured camber link spacers as everyone else!

:thumbsup:

No I don't mind at all and thank you very much for the call out. That's why I wanted to create the blog, to share my experiences.

I will admit that for the majority of my 20+ years racing I would chase setup and sometimes it would work but as I get older my ability to adapt to the changes isn't as sharp as it was! :)

The last few months I have changed my approach and I have seen incredible results. There is no perfect setup as others have mentioned.

One thing I have noticed like ethers have is the 22 likes being driven like a touring car progressive stering and power my racing lines on track are very different compared to say a Durango our rb6 driver but I am just as fast for a given lape my set up is working and working well for me .

But I have had the chance to drive ether makes of car and out of all of them I might have to get a rb6 but for now I am loving my losi 22 It makes me happy when x 22 drivers say you have got that 22 hooked up looks rily good out there
and smooth

Hey Guys,
I got a question. I race my 22 on Dirt/Clay and Carpet. Because i don't wan't to change layout every time i just run the car in rear motor layout.
Another reason is that i use stick packs for TC, and i don't like electrics install in the mid car. Setting the car up and driving fits more my style in rear config.

I usually use 13.5T blinky as per class Rule.
Would make sense to buy a second car for the other layout but that's not the point.

I want to have a bit more corner speed and thought about getting a different toe block, but was wondering which one:

Either the knew 2.5° LRC or 3.5° HRC (lowest toe degrees). in the TLR Blog vid it's said that higher roll center equals less traction, but maybe the one degree less has a bigger impact and also gives less resistance on straights. What do you guys think?

EDIT: I mean which would make more sense on Carpet? would the LRC with less degrees work equally?

Reducing Toe Angle will help to free-up the rear of the car so you should be able to carry more speed through the corner but I suspect it will still be less than a well set-up mid car will achieve on carpet.

But that said, the rear motor is still a lot of fun and your point about using the same car for both dirt and carpet is a valid one.

In my opinion, LRC will grip harder as you enter the corner but could let go more suddenly. In my opinion, that is not what you are wanting to achieve. If your track is full of hairpin and pivot style corners, then LRC could be a good option but you might find HRC will be more consistent in longer corners.

However, that could lead to more push-understeer on throttle as the rear end is working more effectively.

LRC / HRC is more subtle than the toe angle. If you take a degree off of the toe angle and reduce to a maximum of 3 degrees, that will be felt more than the difference between LRC and HRC. If you want the 2.5 deg block, then you will have to use LRC as it is not available as a HRC option.

Hope this helps

Thanks mate, it was very helpful!

The thing is, there is no (or i did not find it) 3 degree HRC block. and i can't believe that half a degree is so much difference.

I guess i have no other choice but to test ist :eh?:

I think i'll get the 2.5 LRC first, as the track i race on actually is quite tight and the rear end is rock solid, and it does not feel right to loosen up the rear and still keeping the high toe.

And i know it should be faster with the mid car, but i could not drive it as consistent as the rear car. But for me it's fast enough and i can still keep up with some of the chaps on my track.

TLR2983
22 Aluminium 3 degree Toe Plate
HRC (High Roll Centre)

now i feel stupid :cry:

it's neither listed on the hop-up parts page from TLR nor in the webshop i usually order.

thanks