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Cat K1 Setups
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Attached below is the setup i used at Silverstone Winter Series yesterday - high grip astro/carpet. I have found over testing that this is a good base starting setup and have been using at most places. The only changes I made yesterday was to go up 50wt all round.
Si |
silly comment sorry
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Is that using core rc oil si?
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Yeah Core Rc Oil
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Any chance of making this thread sticky? People are already commenting that we could do with a setup section. I will do my very best to put new setups up when i test/race etc and Im sure Tom, Grant, Danny & Llloyd will do the same where possible.
Si |
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Kiddy Test Day & my starting setup for Worksop this Sunday
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Simon is that right on the setup sheet, that you use 1.2mm pistons in the rear and 1.3mm in the front, or is that an error on the sheet?
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white = 1.2
black = 1.3 red = 1.4 |
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on simons set up sheets are piston colours which tie to the sizes doubt simon would enter, the wrong piston colour and sizes down wrong |
Preddy, yes that's right.
I also asked the question at Silverstone, Si runs smaller hole piston in the rear |
Didn't work for me, then again we don't all have his thumbs!! :lol:
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@ Father Christmas
SNAP!! |
Ignore
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The setup sheet is correct to what I've been running. To be honest I have been messing around with pistons in the front and this just what I have settled on for the time being. I run the setup with the bigger pistons in the front as at Silverstone I wanted the back to be pretty damped but the front to dip into the corners at low speed.
At Worksop I might well change this a little as I will want more rear end. Si |
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Attached is the setup i finished on at Worksop last week, my apologies for the delay. I made a lot of changes throughout the day and this is the setup i ran in the final. Was really pleased with the car in the final, nothing between me and Nath Waters (if any of you saw the final) and not massively slower than Neil. The car was far more balanced on the shock settings and handled the table tops etc much better. The majority of my changes were to generate low speed steering, hence the extra washers under the front inner ball stud. Ill be starting with this exact setup tomorrow at Broxtowe, so any comments/ discussions please feel free to ask.
Cheers Si |
Si see ur running the option chassis, is this carbon or s1?
Also the rear blocks your running rear low frong high, what does this do? |
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simon also runs the alloy rear blocks and fine tunes with washers, which you can not get with the kit part. (sat next to him at worksop and asked the same) |
Petitrc Race setup for clay.
So, this weekend was my debut with this beast, at the Petitrc race held at a cementhard clay track with varying grip, horribly executed jumps, and a reputation for killing any car you throw at it.
With the Schumacher in kit form, even though responsive and well jumping, this wasn't it's favourite playground. But I've only broken one suspension arm through a weekend of racing, and I now got a decent setup for clay:) I switched to the white piston up front, Losi 40 oil, TLR green springs(3.5) and 7.5 yokes. In the rear I had Losi 35 oil(felt heavier than kit), TLR yellow springs and a 1.3 mm Yokomo B-max roll bar, with a custom mount. I was testing a few oils and springs, but this is what turned out best so far. I didn't have time for testing any links, toe adjustments and such, and the car is still a bit on edge, but this setup made me have the A-main pace, even if I couldn't deliver. So far so good, I'm looking forward to more testing:) |
Had a couple of pm's asking for my setup from Worksop on Sunday so i will do my best to get it up when i'm back from work tonight. My car was fantastic, best I have had it so far so hopeful I might have found a better base setup.
Si |
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Sundays setup guys, any questions let me know!
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Hi simon
Are they core springs? |
hmmmm
I have been running the K1 is standard trim for a few meetings now. decided sunday at Torch, needed to start "adjusting/changing" things.
Mr Saddler, the most awsome dude surgested putting the rear end on the higer setting holes. did this. was unsure of the result 1st round after the change but have to say it worked for a bumpy track(torch), will go back to the lower settings for SHRCCC as a little smoother and its awsome there. I also, added what a few people questioned as a LOT of under lipos weight. 110grams. The track was VERY wet, and i have to say made the car corner, grip and jump SOOOO much better. Well it did for me. Yes it was alot of weight as a 1st try but the car was so much more stable and jumped perfectly. that i will be keeping the huge weight for the wet, maybe half that for the dry to start, but not had any track time in the dry as yet to try it(love the UK weather). So, anyone struggling with jump/grip/handling, try some heavy weight(i use lead) under the pipos. you might like it..............;) |
Yeah Core Rc springs
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And big bore shocks
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Hi Simon ,
Regarding the anti squat, I'm not sure what the setup sheet is showing with the alloy block settings ...... So front high, rear low, but then lower the front by 1.5mm with the shims. Is my understanding correct? |
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Unless the 3mm compensates for the front block being mounted in the 'high' position? If that's the case, what would be the advantage of running high front and low rear if the spacers are used to make the anti-squat the same anyway?
Even more confusing that the table itself tells you overall rear toe and not anti-squat too! |
If you want to get the rear pin higher you will sometime hit the point when you canīt remove more washers.That will most likely happen in the front,so you put that one hole higher.As you want a short stack for bending reasons you leave the rear in the lower hole.
Cruise |
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I run the pin high front/ low rear combination because i feel for me it gives me the most balance on the car. I find running pin high all rounds means the car rotates through the corner too much and pin low means loss of forward traction again in my opinion. This is something i ran on my SX3 and when testing put on my K1 and it made a big difference.
What you have to remember is that if you dont space the front block down when running this combination, you would technically be running 4mm worth of anti squat as the difference in hole height is 4mm. I space the front pin down by 2.5mm, therefore giving a an overall antisquat of 1.5mm, hence 1.95 degrees of squat. The calculation is worked out the same for toe in and antisquat, its just a typo on the setup sheet. Ralf's point of having to run this configuration is not correct, its just personal preference for me. And yes I am running big bores at the moment. Hope this helps! |
Thanks Simon, it's good to get a bit of logic behind the setups. I'll give this setup a try on Sunday.
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My recent setups have been posted on Petit RC (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...cherCatK1.html)
Worksop setup is here: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...rksop20130310/ |
camber link options rear
Hello all,
I was wondering if anyone can tell me if the following part would fit on a K1 U3529 (a conversion for the SX) If it fits it would give more rear camber link options instead of buying 3 different rear plates. Greetings Hans |
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too bad
Hello,
Thanks for the reply, I will get the K1 parts then. Greetings Hans |
can anyone tell me the size of holes for the stock pistons? I am getting a 2nd hand K1 and for the life of me cannot find this info anywhere. Thanks. Also any pointers to useful :D upgrades will be appreciated.
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1.5mm
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The kit black pistons in the K1 are 1.3mm
Ive found the U3404 Alloy Yoke 7.5deg and U4160 Rear Alloy Block Conversion Set are usefull upgrade Mat |
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