DB1 at worm
 

Hello I raced the db1 at worm today and found it really hard to get any grip from the rear end at the start of the day it wasn't bad and as the day went on the grip got less and less as I've said before I'm no setup guru but took advice from others and got it summit like it for the final, but 3 out of the 5 heats went to waste trying to drive a car that just wanted to go round in circles

What setup did you run? Tyres etc?

Started off with the "standard setup" with dboot b compound tires on the rear (multibyte) and staggers on the front which was ok for 2 rounds then went to rat shit

Never run D boots so not sure how they behave... not much use I'm afraid.

That's about all that would grip the chap who won the A was using them and a lot of others were too

Please email me 3 photos of your car as you run it.
one form the rear, one from the front and one from the top
[email protected]

Now that's service! :)

Bloody rite it is you don't get that from Schumacher! Pics have been sent tony :)

Mr rudetony.......... A true gent!

Keep us posted on tips for low grip !

Yep!

I'm at Chadderton tomorrow, So any tips would be great!

yep same as GIXXER hear .. WORM weston super mare was real hard work all day we just could not find rear grip as the day went on ... the track (newly layed astro) gave grip as souch to start with .car pushed a little for the first couple of heats but was drivable.... but as the day went on rear grip dissapeared... the worst bit was just getting the car to go up the straight in a straight line at a good pase . i could deal with the car loose in the corners but was a real hand full.......
end set up was
rear
losi-20wt
losi bb white spring (softest i had)
inner top on tower
inner hole on w/bone
3b pistons
ride hight = shafts were level
removed 2mm washer from inner ball stud

front
losi 30wt oil
k dark yell springs
centre hole on tower
outer hole w/bone
3b pistons
ride hight level but dident take a reading
links as kev lee's setup
shock were small bore

rubber
dboots multibite b comp (unique to this track)
cut low pro stagers yell
std weight kit added to the car

please pick holes in my set up guys any tips to try would be great to try

one thing i would like to have tried is try balistic pinks on the rear....

I found the same on wet astro, car was very manageable on corners if I was carefull not to arrive to quick into them but on straight I had hard time putting power down. On that kind of track, Ballistic green were awesome to add a bit of rear grip and with them the car was fine.

I didn't use ballistic greens but highlander did and they were just as bad. For me going into corners was all good coming out was the hard bit!

can i ask what insert you were using with greens ... thanks Lee

Classic Answer blue, found the car predictable, still got to take care on corner exit but feels more safe than schum silver.
I like it that way

Hi mate give me a call tomorrow night and i will go through your setup.
I'm away tonight though.
Cheers Paul

Hi will be interested in what help you get as my db1 was the same at Shrccc today had no forward bite in the wet,running mine on standard setup
Chris

From a DEX210 drivers point of view ... sounds like you had the same problems yesterday at WORM as most of us did in 2wd TBH.

The Dboots look to be a tyre that works a little better in the damp here, I never got a pair to try, Rob at South West RC ran out before I got there !! so I struggled on with a new pair of Ballistic greens which would just about let you put the power down ... but I could still spin the wheels half way down the straight :lol:

My best runs were when the car felt "balanced" so you could 4 wheel drift it more than anything else I tried ... :)

Things to try would be...

Lowering inner links, front and rear.
Add more weight to the spine or under lipo.
Black spring on rear


Also, RB6 rear wishbones are a direct fit, and allow you to go even shorter wheelbase. They also have the drop down built in. I've been trying them on the zx5 and that works well so might be worth trying on the db1.

Hope that helps...

I ran mine today at Chadderton, The first round was in short TERRIBLE i had to take the car off, It was un-driveable.

By the end of the day I had the car going great. It was very easy to drive.
It was putting the power down as well as could be expected on that surface.

This is what I changed:

Middle hole rear shock tower.
Inner hole rear wishbone.

Middle hole rear shock tower
Outer hole front wishbone

Medium wheel base (Rear Hub 1mm each side)
No spacers under rear inner ball studs.
3mm under inner front ball studs.

Rear/ Big Bore / Losi Pink Rear / 5-Hole 1.4 / 35wt
Front/ Big Bore / Hard Orange / 5-Hole 1.3 (Kit) / 40wt

Everything else was as per Kevs' kit setup. If I had more time I was going to lengthen the rear links to try to calm the rotation.

Thank you for all the advice that's Been posted but I'm getting conflicting advice with reguards to adding or removing spacers from under the inner ball studs, which gives more side grip? More spacers or none ?

I find that less spacers or a lower ball stud give you more rear end grip.

It depends on if you are lacking grip into or later in the corner. If lacking on entry then lower the inner ball stud, if you're okay on entry but lacking later then raise it.

With the db1 I found that in slippery conditions it was easy to get to the point where the massive amount of steering the car generates over powers the rear. For that reason I always preferred mini spikes on the front as you could remove a row or two to reduce the late corner front end grip. Also increasing front droop helps a lot as it allows more rearward weight transfer on power, running almost zero antisquat also improves things greatly.

Any thoughts on using additional toe in with the optional 1 deg outboard alloy hubs.

Thanks roger that's made things clearer :)

John, if you still have my number you can give me a call if Paul can't help.

Hi the problem with my db1 is I have no forward grip in the wet, running yellow staggered ribs on the front.
Chris

Ok .... stagger ribs + wet actually equals too much front end, especially in green compound!! Bare with me .. I've not gone mad!!

I found this out earlier in the year (cost me a regional) and have seen a few other people learn the same thing, most recent Gaz Stanton with his C4.1 last weekend!

What happens is the sharp sides of the staggers don't slide on the damp surface like the points of a spike do, added to the fact that a cut stagger has more 'edges' biting than slim minispikes too and your into a bad situation.

I would ALWAYS recomend using minispikes on the front in the wet / slippery surfaces as they give better ballance to the minispike rear tire. If you have too much with a slim minispike then cut a row or two off. If you cut a row out off staggers you loose the radiused edge and can actually make them slide less rather than more.

With the DB1 (and RB6) there is so much natural front end bite, hence why we need no weight in the front of the car at all, it is more noticiable than on the RB5 which was a bit more forgiving on the front end.

What to do with any Kyosho 2wd on slippery stuff .... especially the aggressive DB1 & RB6.

1) Reduce antisquat -- zero is best when you want a really solid forward drive. This encourages rearward weight transfer on power.

2) Soften rear springs -- Kyosho blacks on a DB1 and X-gear whites on an RB6 work well as a starting point -- encourages rearward weight transfer on power.

3) Increase front droop by 1 to 2mm -- encourages rearward weight transfer on power.

4) Raise rear inner ball stud if the car is lacking late corner / exit grip as this will reduce the on-power steering and make it feel more neutral out of the corner.

If that all fails get out a power boat (Kyosho make some nice ones) ;)

I'm starting to see the light thankyou roger..... a few things to go away and try now thanks again mate

Thanks Roger when is your book coming out can I pre order better thanks them Hudy manua more in depth and in easy to understand language :thumbsup:

Try everything Roger sais.
When its really greasy try.
About 60g under each lipo and 60g in the spine.
I recently tried 4 degree toe in on the rear which seemed to help.
You can also flip the rear wishbones to shorten the wheelbase to aid traction and run the front uprights in the forward position to lengthen the wheelbase.