DEX 210 Newbie - What Hop-ups from start???
 

Hi All,

I've just got my first Off-Road buggy, picking up a new DEX210 kit, to get back into RC racing but need a bit of advice on extras.

I've seen both the Tresrey and Exotek range of hop-ups but was wondering which of these are genuinely worth getting and building in from day one?

Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers in advance

A non-plastic steering rack is a good start. I found the kit one lasted a few meetings until a less than perfect landing snapped it in 2. I replaced mine with an atomic carbon one and never had a problem since :)

you dont need any hot ups. your better off spending money on tyres.

I agree with Big G, the plastic steering rack is weak. Also I would recommend you put 1mm spacers between rear shock tower and mount. This seems to help reduce the shock tower breakages.

Dark Red front springs and either Black or Dark Green rears will be useful if you are running on high grip.

Thanks for the info, wasn't expecting replies that fast! It isn't always easy to tell the functional upgrades from the purely "bling" ones.

I'll definitely get the steering rack upgrade then.

I'll be running outdoors on Astro so the spring advise is useful too, thanks.

Is it best just to stick to Schumachers for tyres as whenever I look around they always seem to be most peoples control tyres etc.?

Alu or carbon for steering rack?

whichever you like the look of really. I can't see the performance difference changing the world

Build the car with carbide diff balls from the start.

Buy some red springs for the front.

Spend the rest on tyres!

I'd go with red, yellow and purple front springs for a bit of tuning, a set of red rears also works well, and maybe a gear diff .... that's pretty much all I've changed .... oh and a Phat Bodies Smootheee bodyshell :) ... but I'm biased :lol:

Thanks for the advice, I think I may go for the alu steering upgrade as I am bound to give the front end a few "whacks" eary on!

I've bought a second shell in the Finnisher as I knew I would scuff or crack the factory one very quickly as I get up to speed, but I have to admit I was torn between this or the Phat Bodies one, so may go to this after my first one goes.

I've seen a lot about the gear diff, apparently it is much longer wearing, especially on UK high grip astro surfaces. Is it better to fork out for this and keep the ball diff as a back up, or like racingben says, get the balls upgraded???

My diff balls came with a stronger c clip for the diff as well. Important to upgrade this as the originals fail pretty quickly and leave you with no drive. No issues as yet with the uprated one.

Edited to add that pretty as the cream weight kits are, a sheet of lead is less than £5 posted that you can then make your own under servo / battery weights.

For a functional car the diff balls are a must as for the c clip usually these fail because the proper tool is not used and they are fitted the wrong way around

Get your self
C clip pliars (small)
Diff balls
Steering rack
I would find out what springs and tyres other 210 use at your club before forking out

Stu

1) Tamiya shock orings as they don't leak.
2) Alloy shock preload nuts as they have an oring to keep em tight.
3) Smaller spur as it moves the motor back further for better traction.
4) Alloy or carbon steering rack.
5) Alloy drive hexes.
6) A decent circlip tool otherwise the diff won't last 5mins.

Nothing else needed. Diff balls aren't too necessary but easier to put in at the time of build. :thumbsup:

Alloy wheel hexes
Associated slipper pads.
Some weight for the front of the car.
Ceramic diff balls

I put the gear diff in because my ball diff just wouldn't work right, slipped too much, the gear diff is fit and forget, go for a light oil around 1000 weight, its ace :) .... and can't fault the Phat Bodies body, good low and high speed balance with the stock wing :thumbsup:

AE slipper pads,that's it!!!. The kit ones are pants. You don't need owt extra,if you build the ball diff correctly it won't give you any problems. No need for any weight up front either if your running on astro.

A friend of mine asked me why I never change any settings on the car one meeting to the next.......he found out when he bought one!.:woot:

I built mine to Craig Collinsons setup sheet for robinhood raceway and its been brilliant all season.

All I've done to mine is added some bling!

Phill

If you are a bad driver like me, Aluminium RF suspension holders are good, I have ripped a few of the plastic ones. Another thing I'd get would be aluminium battery holder nuts, the plastic ones are a pain.

Thank you very much everyone who has posted replies, it's great to know there is so much help available to newbies like me.

I'm planning to spray the body this week so may stick up so photos of my first attempts at a personalised paint scheme for all to chuckle!!!

I got the Durango as I was advised that it is user friendly and a stable drive so glad that most people are saying the same here as it doesn't appear to need constant fettling and tweeking according to most of your posts.

I think I will go for the gear diff it is simpler to maintain and look after.

As for tyres, is it simply easier to stick to Schumachers as this appears to be what the majority of people use, and clubs when setting control tyres?

Tresrey rear hexes, AE slipper pads, carbide diff balls (i personally wouldn't bother with gear diff, i have both and went back to ball diff), and pay great care when building the diff, use the proper build guides. also look for you tube vids of breaking in the rear diff once built.

you are correct that the gear diff is in theory a fit and forget item, however its not a quick diff to remove like in the 410 so if you want to change the oil in it whilst at a track it's gonna take a while....

+1

^^ Exactly what I was going to say.

Worthwhile investing time, effort and research getting your ball diff right, as it's the best diff at 90% of tracks. The balls diff will also work "well enough" at 100% of tracks, the same for which can't be said for the gear diff.

Ta

Thanks again for all the advise, it is much appreciated.

Anyone have any idea about tyres? I was looking at dboots but should I just stick to Schumachers???

I also opted for the DEX210. After talking to a few on here and studying the car I would say these are the most important first upgrades to the car...anything else is more asthetic and possibly to make parts last longer.

Initial parts -

Allow Hexes - The rear hexes being plastic warp as you tighten the wheels on, change these straight away for either the Durango or Tresrey parts, both around the £9 mark

Plastic Washers - Though these work, you end up with either binding or slop, not ideal. You can fettle the washers with sanding paper, but for £11 you can get the Tresrey washer set to do the whole car with the standard kit setup.

Tools -

Make sure you have a good set of Circlip pliars. If you can spend out on the Wiha one's as these I have had for years and have been brilliant.

Asside from that you should be able to run with the kit initially

Upgrades - (you do not necessarilly need, but i have swapped for a reason)

Adjustable spring retainers - Changed as the plastic one's could move if the spring gets spun

Bottom shock cap - changed as I have had shocks before with plastic bottom caps that have blown off on heavy landings/shunts

65g front brass suspension bulkhead - aids better handling

Carbide Diff Balls - longevity and smoother action

Schumacher slipper plates - last longer than Durango parts

Exoteck rear hubs - stronger than plastic version

RPM balls joints (yet to fit though) - better than durango version but you will need to also swap the actual suspension balls too (Schumacher seem to fit really well)

Cheers jo90 for the info, how long have you been running your DEX210?

You say that you've had bottom shock caps blown off on heavy landings??? How common is this?

I've blown a TOP shock cap off. You need to physically rip the bottom one off, can't do it with hydraulic pressure. So almost unheard of. I've done a couple of front top caps in ~9 months of ownership. And i think he means slipper pads, not plates. I think.

I've *had* to change the RF toe block (the ball pulls through the plastic one eventually), the steering plate (got a gunnel weighted one) and a few other assorted weights. Anything else is really just bling or marginal gains. If you crash a lot, or drive on a "vigorous" track, the RPM ball cups/associated balls are useful.

Thanks for the clarification mattr.

I've sprayed the shells (I got a spare for the inevitable first "big" crash) so will get the suggested extra items in the next month and bild them in to from scratch.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice, of course any more is always appreciated, I now have a list of things to order once pay day comes around!