New X-6sq Owner
 

Hello chaps,
I have just bought a second hand X6sq conversion for my B4,
I was just wondering what else I would need to get it running.

I was going to use the V1 associated shocks that Iialready have but not sure on what springs would be best. I run only on astro at the moment at Torch.
I am pretty new to the whole rc thing and to be honest shockingly bad too!:)
So a good easy to drive setup would be great too. (Xerun 120 esc and LRP X11 8.5 motor).
Thanks In advance
Ben

Hi Ben,

It depends on what you have with your conversion already and what spec you are looking to achieve. Long wheel axles are important, as are the E-Speed rear hangers.

If you are at TORCH on sunday, I will be there at the regional, come up and say hello and we can have a look at the car for you and let you know whats what with it for you...

Darren

I'm running a 24t pinion on my 8.5 X12 with a 78 spur, you need the smaller spur or the drive shaft can hit the spur. I have E speed hangers on my dry car but not on my wet car. You need short rods to fit them.
We use grass so similar to astro and I have blue ft and silver rr springs and currently on 35 ft 25rr oil but may change that although it will get you started.
The only weight I've added to my car is a lump of brass behind the servo.
I still use a stick pack across the chassis but many cut the walls down and use saddles side by side or in a kind of T shape right up to the servo.
Just drive it for now, it's a whole different car to a B4, I love mine.
:)

Thanks Chaps,

Cheers Darren, not sure I'll have it by sunday but will come over and say hi if I can make it as a future customer (just on breakages alone i really am that bad)!

Phil thanks for that its just what I was after I'll still be using my stick packs and as it happens those are the only springs I have anyway:)
i'll order up a pinion and spur
Thanks again
Ben

Raced this evening and the car was great. 8.5t was plenty. Felt no reason to change any of what I mentioned above but had to keep an eye on ride height and camber. Had it between 20 and 22mm.
It all came down to tyres by the final as the dew settled and I managed a 2nd in the B with 3rd and 4th only a couple if feet behind me. Good fun.
:)

Well done and congrats mate,
I'm looking forwards to trying it out :thumbsup:

We work hard so you will make that last comment, Phil: "Good fun."

Hope you can keep on saying that.

For me a lot of the fun is in the anticipation of recieving new parts, reading all the different tips and setups (not that I understand all of it) and tinkering into the small hours on the car.
The whole racing thing is just a massive added bonus!!:thumbsup:

"Excellent fun"!!-except i was the one Phil beat by 2feet!!!Even more fun on Sunday South West SWORDS round-estimates are for 40+ driver`s,heres hoping it`s still dry.....:thumbsup:

You're the reason I have an X6 (x2) and you taught me most of what I know!
It's your own fault. :p

:thumbsup:

Hi chaps,
I have my kit all built up now looks awsome!:thumbsup:
I am trying to sort out a decent setup on it as I still need to get some longer cvd's(not allowed to spend anymore on toy cars this month apparentley:thumbdown:).
I have the rear suspension currentley set to the centre hole on the rear arms and second hole from bottom holes on the rear tower.
This is as close to the standard UK setup I could get.
being a newb I'm not sure how this will efffect the other settings or should I leave them the same as the setup sheet.
Also I'm using e-speed hangers too
Thanks
Ben

I copied Ellis Staffords base setup from the X factory site which works well on grass and Astro.

Hello mate,
I think thats the one I've been using, trouble is my rear axles pop out as it gives me too much droop. (I need to get the londer drive shafts)
I have put some spacers in the shocks and adjusted the hole posuitions but wondered if this would effect the rest of the setup too much?
Cheers Ben:)

Personally I would stay on the same holes regardless and if you really are unable to get the axles at present (it is just the XF5661 axles you need not the whole driveshafts) then limit the droop accordingly (with more spacers inside the shocks) so your bones dont drop out until such time you can get the axles and then dial in a little more droop again..

For several years before the advent of the #5661 axle that was the answer: use the correct shock mounting position so you got the geometry correct and use limiters to keep the bones in the outdrives. For most club racers that works pretty well, and that's why #5661 is sold as an optional part, not a standard part of the Kit.

Thats great thanks chaps :thumbsup:

I've also recent gone to an X6sq and have the same problem with the driveshafts popping out, I went as far as 10mm spacers in the shocks before moving out 1 hole on the wishbones, as far as I know I have the longer axles as there's a receipt for them in with the car.

If moving the shock out by one hole affects the handling how much spacing is required to limit the droop enought to keep the shafts in (I'm running losi shocks btw)?

With that much spacing already it sounds like you may have the "wrong" Losi shocks on the rear (most probably the 1.2" stroke ones from the XX4) you need the shorter - 0.9" (shafts)/1.0" (bodies) - ones from the XXX or XXX4 if that is the case.

Thanks for the info Darren, althought it sounds like it might cost me some money :(

Is there a measurement I can take from the outside of the shock body (eg length from the centre of eyelet to the end of the body) to see if I have the wrong ones on?

Cheers

Nigel.

Another possibility, Nigel. If you have #5661 axles, they come with a small aluminum spacer which is placed between the shoulder of the axle and the inner bearing. If your spacer is missing, or if it is outboard, you will continue to have the "bone-out-of-outdrive" problem. Writing from home, so no actual info to hand, but I think the spacer is 0.060". I know you can easily see it.

If you have no spacer at all, inboard or out, then you probably don't have #5661. The only way to use #5661 without the spacer (It might have come up missing.) is to put a number of shims in, and they should be inboard.

Adding to what Chas has already put,it pays to shim the spacer as tight as you can get it (tight enough so you can just get the wheel drive pin in-shims furthermost in side)otherwise if left loose the aluminium spacer is left to float and it wears away.I lost a driveshaft at the weekend (and chewed up the spur gear),it took a bit of head scratching to sus out why,luckily I had a spare pair of used driveshafts in my box with the spacers,immediately after looking at these it was evident the spacer had worn away.Swop spacer and shimmed up nice and tight and away!!Chas/Darren,does the spacer come supplied with new axles?I need new axles,they are getting worn now and could do with new ones...

I had the same problem. I use the TLR22 shocks and every time I landed from a big jump the drive shaft would pop out. The X6 loves droop so I decided to keep the full droop and shim the shaft into the drive cup with 2 of the drive shaft shims on each side. I had to shave some material off of the outer wheel spacer, in order to get the pin through, and some off the A-Arm to allow the driveshaft to clear but it works like a charm. I've had several hours running with it like this and had no problems. The full shock length I use is 97mm. Check the pics below to see what I mean.

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/6893/20120801018.jpg
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1462/20120801019.jpg
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/8919/20120801020.jpg

Personally, I would say that the car pictured has quite a bit too much droop, the car does like droop yes, but that is a bit excessive...

Chippy, yes the XF5661 axles do include the spacers with them

Thanks for all you help guys,
I had my first day with it today and it felt much easier to drive than the B4. Definatley more planted down the straight so much so that I actually turned some boost on and adjusted my throttle epa from 70% to 85%...Go me!!
I even managed to do a couple of the big tabletop jumps cleanly once or twice so better in the air too.
I mean i still did terribly (and broke it too), but had lots of fun!!:thumbsup:
Once the grip levels came up i had real trouble getting enough front end steering so will need to have a tinker with that, although looking forward to it.
Thanks again
Ben

Post up your setup and I'm sure we can offer some advice.

How much weight did you run in the front?

Thanks Chaps,
I was running the standard uk astro setup of the x-factory site although I may have gotten something wrong,
I am running 10g on the bulkhead and 60g under the speedo.
Lipo across the back and thats quite heavy.

Thats a lot of weight.
I have a tiny brass front hinge pin brace and two thin triangle bits in the holes at the front next to the servo, no more than 10g each. My Lipo is across the back.
What ride height do you run at?

Nah that's not a lot of weight on a grippy track, the under speedo weight doesn't do much for balance as it's near the centre of gravity. Even with the shorty lipo mounted front/back I have a brass bulkhead, pin retainer and a small weight on top, I think that totals 60g and is right on the nose.

On the weekend at Silverstone (which was REALLY grippy) I also had an under servo weight as under power the front was still lifting and losing on power steering.

Cheers chaps,
I'm only using sticky weights for now anyhow so will have a play around next weekend.
I've just been trawling through this section and think it may that my servo saver isn't tight enough.
I may glue it and see if that helps
also 2nd spare x-6sq on its way now too :thumbsup:

With the saddle pack chassis, I currently run 60g under the speedo and between 90g and 120g behind the servo.

Does an under servo weight make much of a difference in comparison to having the weight behind the servo?

When I was running saddle packs I ran a piece of roofing lead cut to the shape of the servo bay area held down by the servo. this is low and obviously most of the weight is further forward than behind the servo so you need less of it to get the same effect. However the main reason I did this was becasue I had some roof lead and didn't have any brass ;-)

Now I run the shorty pack I found I preferred the brass bulkhead and on high grip the further forward weight bias this gives. Silverstone last weekend where I ran both was something of a one off as that was high grip on a level I don't think I've ran off road on. I didn't put a new set of tyres on my car all weekend.

Someone once had a go at me for bringing this up too often (or something like that) but as this shows it can't be stated often enough. On a high grip track even the HD spring isn't up to it in my opinion and it becomes vague when under load and then snaps shut (adding steering lock) as the corner load reduces. If you run it back to back unglued and then glued you'll potentially see a large difference.

That said I'd only do this if you have a metal geared servo.

The other alternative is alloy steering bellcranks like the nice ones made by J Concepts.

Thinking about it some more I had a couple of occasions when the steering would suddenley become really positive and I'd start turning round in a circle, so much so that I thought I may have had transmitter issues.
Super glue for this weekend then J concepts here i come... mmmm shiney bits :drool:

Definately glue the servo saver if you have a metal gear servo, it really transforms the handling of the car and makes it feel less lazy.

I was thinking of going down the shorty lipo route. Would i needs to dremel away any of the webbing in the chassis. Also, is the standard battery strap capable of holding the shortly lipo in place down the centre of the car, or do i need to buy the old style 4x2 strap?

Loads of info in this thread
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94213

thanks Dan

would you say the 4x2 battery strap is an absolute must, or could I get away with using the standard one?

If clamped down well it would be OK for testing say but personally I wouldn't want to run it like that long term as you're holding down less than half the pack.

Thanks Dan :)

Hi guys,
just a bit more feedback, Sunday car was awsome.
After glueing the servo I had way too much steering,(most likely because the week before I tried everything to get more) but managed to dial that down on quite quickly.
Transmitter issues ended my day when it decided to drive off in circles a couple of times then ignore all signal input going flat out on the straight!:cry:
but really happy with X-6sq so far.