X11 setting for very loose track...
 

i'm a little disappoint, i can not found a good setup for my track
is very loose, and my x11 in acceleration out of the corner lost the rear (oversteering)
this is the track:

http://www.automodelli.it/wp-content...mica_Pista.jpg

i use the same tyres of other drivers.
esc xerun 120 2.1
lipo stick
motor feigao 6.5 with 17 pinion.
this is my last setup:
front:
oil losi 35 1 hole no valve internal spacer 4mm.
spring 5.5
Caster min, upper front amrs all front, next time i try with: max caster 21° with mod
pushrod short, (next time try with standard pushrod)
camber 1°
toe 0°

rear:
oil 35 losi 1 hole no valve
spring 6 + pre compression gold
max drop
shock on lower hole
upright on higher hole (next time i try with lower hole)
wheelbase lowered of 2mm.
toe in 2.5°
rear diff. little loose.
big wing with gurney (team arashi)
i search one car more easy to drive....
thanks for the help.:(

other picture:

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...83560976_n.jpg

Try softer rear oil - 30wt with softer springs and run more toe in on the rear.

What camber are you running on the back?

rear camber 1°
i have used oil 30 but is to low with this temperature (the track is indoor and the temperature is over 30°C very hot...) when the car landing, the rear touch the ground very strong.

Ps:
the pred.co is off line from some days...

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You can also try to loosen the slipper a little bit (let's say 1/16 of a turn) to make the car less agressive during acceleration.

I'm having my first race on clay surface with the pred this weekend so I'm also a bit excited:woot: and having a lot of questions :confused:in terms of setup

good luck for your race!
in my experience, the clutch of the pred is not much stable and reliable

If it has power-on oversteer, try less steering lock. :)

Also you could try front rebound valves and blue rear springs on the middle hole on rocker.:thumbsup:

no, because, in some tight turns the car is in understeer

Thanks, but just with the 19 tooth pinion the motor is very hot and after few minutes the speedo is in protection...

Hello, I was running a Novak 6.5 on an 18t pinion, the motor got so hot it had meltdown! now i run a 6.5 on 23t pinion and it runs much cooler and much less aggressive to drive! :thumbsup:
The last time I ran on Astro I had the following setup.
Front shocks
losi 30wt oil
2 hole piston
yellow spring
No rebound valve or limiters

Rear shocks
35wt losi oil
2 hole piston
Red spring with pre-compression spring
No limiters or rebound valves

Max caster
1 deg camber front 3 deg on the rear
Max droop
Middle hole on rear shock towers
Front ride height 19mm
Rear ride height 21mm (wishbone just below level)
Rear sway bar on soft setting
Top hole in rear hubs

Worth a try!

Also worth possibly keeping an eye on www.teamnoidea.com as soon as this UK weather gets better ill be out testing every 5 mins and reporting about setups on the site.:thumbsup:

thanks for the tips of the pinion i will try asap.
I'm sorry but it is not astro, the first image has the colors distorted by the camera, but it is hard clay ground. :)

Maybe reducing the punch on the speedo would help too...

thanks to all guys,

today i have worked a lot on the setting, i think is only a problem of balance...
because with the front soft and without the spacer (my new setup of today), with more drop and a soft oil the car have a good grip at front and rear.... with the spacer and the oil stronger the front have a little roll and the rear the same, in fact in the corner entry, the car was understeering and oversteering in the out, but now is much more balanced.

my problem now is found a good ratio, because with 23 tooth pinion the esc is in protection.... same with 22,19, and 17 th pinion....

this is my new setup:
front:
1 hole
oil losi 30
no valve
spring 5.5
max caster 21°
standard pushrod
camber 1°
toe 0°

rear
1 hole
oil 35
no valve
spring 6.5
upright lower hole
wheelbase lenghtened of 2mm.
upright with camber joint mod.
big wing team azarashi with max gurney
camber 2°
toe in 3,5°

and same other bits tomorrow....:p

this is my last mod make the rear more driveable.... tha camber link now is 8mm more long. and work always parallel to the lower wishbones.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3184/dsc0163ip.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Does it make a big difference??
Mmm.. looks interesting

i think is better, this is a copy of the upright modded for the euro 08 in Italy from Nathan Ralls. the car is more easy to drive in a slippery track, in the in and out of turns.

you need a new turnbuckle 4mm 28-30 mm longher.:)

Thanks!

Now where is my Dremel?!:D

please let me know your feedback.

yes now run better my pred... without any noise.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/2...io12072012.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Hi

Im glad you sorted this out!

I have two preds both quite new! One just has been rebuilt!

Any tips you can give about electrics to install and indoor setup?

Do you use stick or saddle lipo?

Thanks

i use lipo stick, the esc is a xerun 120 v.2.1 blu version, fitted on chassis behind the shocks, the servo position has been set back of 12 mm to the motor (one 6.5, but i think is better one 7.5 on slippery track)
nothing additional weights.
what's the surface of your indoor track?

Ok...intend to run on carpet or AstroTurf.

Could you post a picture of your internal setup?

http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/3117/dsc0169xb.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Thanks restimax

You have used saddle in that picture. But i guess you can use stick aswell.

Seems like it is tight to fit everything in but you have
Managed it!

Does it get very warm?

I'll post my setup soon. I might use:

Saddle lipo
Tekin rs or rs pro
8 t motor
Low profile savox servo

Thanks again

Have a read on my build thread, also some good ideas on layout.

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88430

Anyone using shorties in their preds? Wandering if putting it towards the rear moving the esc or rx over would befit weight distribution.

[Front]
Big bore shock
piston　57/2hole　（no-valve）
oil　AS30
spring　6.5T black
No-limiter

caster　right back(max caster)
canber　-1.5deg
toe out 1.0deg
anti roll bar no
push lod length　61ｍｍ（hole to hole）
ride height　19ｍｍ（bone level）

[Rear]
Big bore shock
piston　57/2hole
oil　AS35
Spring　6.0T Black（P-spring non）
No-limiter
Caster　stock
canber　-2.0deg
toe lod length　48ｍｍ（hole to hole）
anti roll bar　1.1ｍｍ(Kyosho ZX-5)　back pibot
ride height　21ｍｍ　（lower arm level）
up-right hole　lower hole
apper arm　lower
shock position　middle hole

[Drive train]
supre gear　72T
Pinion gear　20T
Front diff　Full time 4WD
ESC　keyenth tachion
motor　LRP　X11　7.5T
battery　hyperion SWIFT　4200
tire　F/Pro-line hole shot M3　R/Pro-line hole shot 2.0 M3
innner　F/Pro-line stock　R/Pro-line stock （2.0）

[Other]
Rear wing　Durango　full garney
Shock O-ring　Kyosho X-ring Orange
Lipo-chassis（hard）
NEW-orange steer arm

Good luck mate:thumbsup:

thanks mate!
thisi is very similar to my last setting.

because you use a kyosho orings?