Another new owner
 

Just got the car, reading the instructions, wondering what springs people are going with, Associated or Kyosho.
Also wondering about wheels, do other tenth wheels fit or do I have to stock up on Kyosho wheels. What parts are people breaking. :?

hi mate, welcome!
you might get tamiya wheels or academy to fit (same hex) but to be honest i would stick to kyosho ones because the offset might be different and the internal ribbing can foul the wishbones.., kyoshos are cheaper than most wheels around anyway..

spring wise i'm probably gonna try my car this weekend with some #75 rear springs (i think- very light yellow/green anyway) which im gonna try with AE blues on the front (not a great fit)
not run it for a while, so to be honest im now clueless, i prefer to run the 2wd over winter (indoors).

ive been using blue associated springs on back and cut down gold associated on front. Using the asociated shock bottoms and eyelets give the front plenty more droop and stops it falling over on high grip tracks

Post Christmas assembly, page 17 and front differential. we have assembled both ball diffs the same, as standard diffs, just assembled 21 page 17, when assembled "for differential spec" it seems to have a one way-ness about it, when assembled for "front one-way spec" the drive is locked and will brake the front wheels when braking...... am I confusing more that just myself with this one?

Jordans dad.............

Hi,
You may have put the one way in the wrong way around.

OR built it up as a spool maybe ?

Small screw - front suspension
 

Must have overtightened the 3x3 set/grub screw against the shaft in the end of the front wishbones, in the bottom of the hub carrier, slow rise and fall of suspension (before adding shocks). Slackened off and acts just like the back, whats that all about? :?

diffs
 

anyone had any trouble with there diffs mine sounds like cheese graters :cry:

i can only assume that you have put the one way bearings in the wrong side, reverse them and it will be as per the instructions, without being rude if you reread the distructions it will tell you which side the writing goes on the bearings in the oneway, as per spares, the usual wishbones, and pivot pin carriers ( with these u also get the gearbox housings and shock mount mounts that you will need), the only other thing we have broken is the front chub although in all 3 case's the spare's spruce is aprox 5 quid so hardly expensive ( if you need part numbers just ask). as for springs i use orange fronts yellow rears on low grip blue rears and yellow fronts on grass and green rears and kit fronts on high grip

Re: diffs
 

from new or after a couple of meetings, if they are new then strip clean and rebuild if you have used them a few times then id sudgest getting new diff plates ( or refurbing the old ones ) and a set of tungsten carbide diffballs as the diffs seem to work a lot better with these installed

Cheers Natham
I think we was confusing ourselves on this one, we have built with front diff (same as back) then assembled shaft with one way bearing (cleaver little things)- now the front acts as a one way, or at least my understanding of a one way, receives drive via shaft when going forward, but when breaking, only the rear locks up so to speak, the front freewheels, mind you this is just pushing the car along the kitchen floor, motor still to be fitted. I expect if we change the bearing on the shaft for the fixed plastic part we will have 4wheel drive and 4wheel breaking.

Now, putting the bearings into the front diff instead, how would this change the way the car handles if at all, from what we have.

cool no worries, i tend to run my car with diff front n back with no one way on the shaft for low grip as it gives more stable braking although you do get an initial understeer, i tend to run the oneway diff up front if the track allows to make the car more agressive and find that i can get the power on earlier as the oneway pulls it out better than a diff with a oneway layshaft will :?

I prefer a centre (shaft) one way to nothing at all, I just find i can get it round corners quicker, livens the car up a bit. Usually prefer the front one way to the centre one way because its even more agressive plus like has been said it pulls out of corners well.

on a bumpy track the front one way can be hard to drive as every time the wheels come down off a bump underpower it can be wanting to grab the car in different directions, i find using just a diff and centre one way a lot easier to drive at a track like bury metro, but not ultimately as quick for my style of driving.

Great replys guys, beginning to understand that the oneways act differently, guess we will leave it where it is on the layshaft for starters, do you keep a spare one way diff made up for quick swaps?

Any thoughts on the 3x3 grub screw under the front hubs, we have set it so slack it may as well not be in there.

Nathan, what weight oil are you using with those spring setups ? and what did you end up using at Stotfold last month setup wise as i know you were testing a lot of different setups.

Re: diffs
 

i must of stripped them down about 5 or 6 times now put new thrust races in them both maybe il try new balls and plates see if that helps

I don't use any grub screws the retaining screw in the arm is sufficient HTH

also when ya next strip them down check for flashing around the ball holes and centre bearing as my original diff gears had a little flashing and the diff felt pants till i removed it

Cheese graters, in jimmy's review he suggested moving one of the shims over, this moves the gears slightly apart and maybe you have already done this.

That’s what we think, and never seen em before on other cars, but when originally assembled -without shocks- it was possible to adjust the rise & fall of the front wishbones/suspension, free rise & fall (what we are used to) to quite stiff with the screw locked against the pin.

Nice car to assemble tho.