I wouldnt go that far, but he is not that far behind me but luckily he goes for the female variety :thumbsup:

Sounds ok ....:woot::thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

My lazer...
 

The spur gear is tamiya 96T (51284) and the motor pinion 22T. I create a biggest hole in the center of the spur exactly 8mm to receive the bearing..
Then take slipper pads from associated (ASC91170), fits perfect.
Everything works realy nice.
I just need a slipper spring!

You do know ive designed these for 100t with rw racing.

Please can you send some photos...

lazer zx-r
 

i have got 2 cars lazer zx-r. that my fav my life.. never selling it .. :woot: will i go race very soon... i got esc and lipo saddle are good fix in no damdge. motor is 5.5t from ezrun ebay. will soon picture to show u.. i let u know i am deaf. (hard of hearing).. u look good car.. very clear...

Pages 157 & 158 for the B4 versions but would have posted pics of the zx version earlier on

Ready when you are for the W-5063, just let me know how much with shipping and your PayPal

Thanks for the heads up Welshy, so are those spurs available from RW and are the rest of the slipper components pure B4? Also, who made the longer layshaft and is that available too?

I'm in no rush but having a decent slipper solution is a big part of my 'restoration' and I want to make sure I can get all the parts before I go nuts and buy loads of carbon from Fibrelyte! ;D:D

One last question for the Lazer guru's!

In the attached pic of a Mk2/ZXRR chassis, what are the unused holes for?

just PM me youre adress and we will take it from there ....

mvh Isobarik

i have seen those holes i guess miss drilling ....

BTW oosh made the longer shaft and nope its not avaliable from him.

mvh Isobarik

For reversal of the wishbones. However long poles are required with the use of locking shaft spacers on the pivot poles like used on the zxs wishbones to get to work but wasnt a prefered option and never got used.

Ah good to know, I must admit I'd been scratching my head about that one lol.

Bad news about the layshaft I guess but didn't Oli4k(spelling) make something similar for the Mid?

Anyone know if I could hunt down a Hyperclutch or should I just give up on that idea?

Welsh on the right side ie the slipper side you suggesting to move that in by 4 mm right ???

in the first pich the right side says 3mm but i guess that it supose to be 4mm and then take it down 0,5 on each side so its not round anymore so the slipper plates attach. Sory cant describe better but i think you got it ...

mvh isobarik

Guys,

Here it is almost ready to go out and play.

*Ceramic diff balls,
*Ceramic thrust race,
*Ceramic diff bearings,
*Ceramic layshaft bearings,
*New bearings in the hubs,
*New rebuildable Ujs front and rear,
*New front gearbox with an amendment to the original design Oosh123 and I discussed and built to the CF side plates so I don't have to rebuild the diffs every time I want to take it apart so also uses normal sized bearings on the diffs and not flanged bearings.
*Lunsford Titanium tie rods
*Associated touring car ball joints and ball cups (also used on the RC10B2).
*My new designed and finished rear CF gear box
*New Alloy motor plate curtousely of Oosh123
*My new Alloy rear top deck mount which is 3mm higher than the standard one (just the top deck mount holes) to give room for me being able to use 5500 Lipo packs.
*My Lipo tray design
*Servo further inboard
*My top desk design but will be modded again to give more strength for this front gearbox

and various other mods that you'll notice like thicker rear tower, centre block on chassis, weight on top of it and weight behind the rear tower, plus the rar hubs are from the ZXS Evo, front knuckle arms from the ZX, steering plate from the ZX, etc etc

Enjoy.

Yes so basically milling the circular lug on that picture as I want to move the rear slipper plate (behind the spur gear) closer to the motor plate and estimated roughly 4mm, that will leave close to 1mm gap between the slipper plate and the motor plate and should give more than enough room for use of the VTS slipper as well as the usual B4 slipper clutch so getting the best of both worlds. I am hoping that this gets made in time for the event in two weeks time as with this I reckon the car will be quicker.

Looking good welsh awsome...

is that an kickup ???

Crashtest33

i have posted the LA-103

mvh Isobarik

Cheers pal!
I need to pay you tho.
Let me know when your Paypal works.
Nick

Iso,

Chassis is the one i snapped, took the front bit out and filed down the chassis and made a plate and a brace plate. Problem is theres to much flex with a three piece chassis if using an alloy plate but with cf its half but find someone who will make it as even i with my contacts cant get two mad as a mold is needed and costs etc etc still ive designed it without the kick up.

Guys, possibly Ron, do you have a gear ratio chart that has the full pinion and spur gear listing that you can scan and post here. Ive lost mine and need to sort my ratios out.

Maybe http://knaeuel.stw-bonn.de/rc/ZX-Gearratio.pdf might be usable.

Thanks, but I think its a .6 but need the 48dp version. They used to sell a chart and know someone on here has one. Im not certain on the online gear charts.

I think i have one shall look for it ...

Welshy mean while i have a job for you.

Was driving my zxr today or more correctly my daughters carpet racer.
and i hit the side wall and the front came lose ie the LA-30 broke.
i didnt have any new with me so i just putted the pin back in and drove on. after a couple of hits and repairs i looked at my zxs-evo that was also beside me and i took the front plate from the zxs and mounted it on the zxr not an straight fit the arms came down to low and the screws was further apart on the evo but i managed to fit it.

And it still is there and holds upp well.

can you draw one plate for the zxr that use all the four screwholes and have the pins in the right location ( caster angles on the arms ) should be better then just replacing it with an new front la30.


mvh isobarik

It should not matter if you use .6 or 48dp gears, at least that was the conlusion I came to 10 years ago, might be wrong. The ratio is calculated as:

spur gear [tooth count]/pinion [tooth count] * internal ratio

The internal ratio is fixed (due to belts and diff iirc) and the tooth count is independent of the gear type (also .6 gears often have more).

In the end the 88 main gear column matches the ratios in the ZX manual and most of the others match a .6 chart I got with my lazer.

I would definetly be interested in the scanned chart for comparison :)

Iso, you will need the pivot pin cicular holder like on the s, but will have a look at it when i get five. Think ive done this.

Already have an bag of the kc-18

mvh isobarik

Guys if anyone bought one of Oosh123 front gearboxes ive made a few changes. One being the cf sides where ive added a bearing washer from packet LA112 and a hole in the cf so a normal bearing can be used, so you do not need to rebuild your diff every time you take it apart. The second is ive designed a top deck for this gearbox and will post some pics when it arrives in the post.

Anyone interested in need of buying a one off top deck designed by me for the ZX/ZXR MK1, I designed it and got charged for two by mistake. It is based on the new Oosh123 front gearbox, and gives a new look. Let me know.

Have you got a pic by any chance?

Will this work with the standard front gearbox?

Dan,

It needs filing at the end where there are two holes, the flat section needs a file to make it fit perfectly

Or there is this one, new unused and needs filing in the same place

sorry about that, hope it didnt cost a lot more, they were supposed to be free for you, if i help you out with anything in the future i'll make sure i get the postage done properly instead of just sticking a stamp on and hoping it gets there. :blush:
.
.
i dont have a gear chart but found this one online if its any good,

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/setup/gratio.pdf
.
or
.
http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create
.
.

rondoolaa - im not fussed about postage costs mate, dont worry about it. Thanks for doing what you did, much appreciated.

Are you down at the Maritime this weekend for the event?

In fact is anyone going this weekend?

Ok ive worked out the internal ratio and have an exact ratio chart to the Kyosho manual and is 2.214:1 and used a 100t spur and 17t pinion so gives you a range from pinion size 10 to 25 so should be enough for all.

So if you use a gear ratio chart like the one rondoolaa supplied http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create
then game on. One less thing to worry about

Practice day and cars working really well. Slipper is slipping perfectly, diffs are fine and handling is pretty goid. Cars rapid down the straight but my 6.5 that was being used died.

Ok practice lap i finished and felt good. First race i put in a time thst was in the top twenty. Second run i was asked to stop as id finished but the time was 299 seconds so was robbed a lap and 15th overall position, so was 20th at this point. Third run rear belt layshaft pulley inner section broke off so no drive to the rear wheels. After a quick rebuild and admit due to tiredness i didnt space the layshaft correctly and due to this moves left and right which isnt good and also rear diff bed in and due to that needs spacing to stop the large 2mm movement left and right in the gearbox. I decided to take a gamble and replace the pulley only. Fourth run put in a great run to put me 19th overall, timewise i was on for 14th until brainfade and rolled it.

Still went from 9th to 2nd for a few laps only to roll down to fourth and lost that by .10 second which meant 15th overall was the best i could do. Still the Feeling is the cars improved dramatically, slipper needs a vts and a tub chassis is needed but can compete with some good drivers now so aim to make it better so im right on the pace. I was a lap off the top boys and as i dont practice and just do one race a year shows its getting there.

I used the middle bottom hole on my rear hub to raise it and cut the inner and outer rows off the front tires and thats it.

One more thing, i used a kamtec zxs undertray with velcro all around on both sides and my kamtec Parma tomcat shell fitted well and didnt move which was perfect so if carpet racing you have a solution

Well, at least it prooves I did my math right - without annoying music :rolleyes:

Close but off by a fraction. Still now its perfect and everyone can get it. Im hoping lazer zxr is now on the list so should be easier for everyone

Bought some Teamline hubs and a spare front gearbox for my ZXRR rebuild and I picked them up yesterday, super excited! Just wanted to say thanks to Ron for all the help/advice and for being willing to sell them to me and also thanks to James/Welshy for pointing me in the right direction :D


Left Ron some feedback here:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...950#post765950

Cheers guys :D

Rich