ruf, what are the wheels in the top right corner of the "parts" photo? You really need the 3racing motor mount seeing as you've blinged it up so much. The stock Tamiya one looks far too umm, functional is the nicest way to describe it I think.

yeah, but if you buy the 3Racing motor mount, you can't screw the heat sink plate on the bottom of the chassis to it... it then just becomes a plate...

I think they are JConcepts wheels.

JConcepts Rulux wheels for B44. I've been trying to adapt them to fit so I can run common wheels and tires with the XX-4, but no avail so far. Need to thin down the rear drive pins. I can't find any Tamiya front hexes in stock, so I can't tell if the fronts will work or not. The B44 wheels have deeper hex area. I may just run Tamiya wheels and be done with it. I'd like to keep the car TCS legal which also means building up a set of Tamiya turnbuckles later on for official races if the tech gets that serious.

I actually REALLY like the blasted/cast aluminum finish on the motor mount. Tamiya has a blue one and it's significantly lighter, but I don't think we need to lose weight in this car with the lipo.

Good build Ruf - more pics as you have them! :) The chassis is one part I'd like for mine.

The wheels are JConcepts rulux - I use these on my Durga but you DO need to drill out some B44 hexes which isn't entirely easy since they are easy to break whilst drilling. Once done it's all good though and I've run the JConcepts wheels on the durga and 501X

I screwed the rear wheels down tight - no problem. You posted before I'd finished my previous reply to the thread but to confirm - you need b44 hexes for the front wheels - they ARE better than tamiya wheels though, much stronger. I always run a oneway and it's nice to have such strong wheels that don't strip.

I'm just worried about the pins widening the slots in the wheels and making them loose for use on the XX-4. I figure thinning them down a little will be easy insurance.

edit: Just drilled the fronts and bolted the rears on. Works great! Figured there's more slop in the drivetrain than in the wheel pin.

Ahhhhh, I didn't realise that. I'm half way through my rebuild into a carbon chassis and have installed my.....3Racing motor mount :thumbdown: which I had in the car since January this year.

So I guess that's another part to throw in the box labelled "Spares To Keep In Case There's A Worldwide Shortage But Will Probably Never Use"

Cheers for the info anyway. Now, where can I get me the official Tamiya version?

I need a little refresher...

After another one of my spectacular high speed crashes which tear off a front arm and bend an arm shaft nicely, I'm usually changing an arm mount also since the plastic is somewhat 'torn'. I have them shimmed as well. If I was to get the aluminum suspension mounts, would they stay in pristine shape after such an impact, or should I just stick with 'A-tree' and 'damper stay' plastic mounts?

Great thread BTW, helped the most with my Durga.

The alloy mounts are on the whole a good idea. However, it depends on which end you hit at the time, speed angle etc. The front mount is covered by the bumper so it doesn't get scuffed (mine is OK after several smashes) and as the mount is the stronger part any impact gets passed down the line so it shouldn't get "torn" like the plastic kit one.

The rear one on my car has a few grazes from hitting the deck on hard landings as it is not as well protected by the rear bumperette.

As a compromise why not try the carbon reinforced A-parts? That way you get stiffer gearbox tops too. I have some and the suspension mounts seem a lot less flexible than the stock ones. Same for the M-parts but I am undecided on these so far. At present they are fitted to my car but I haven't raced with them yet and if I crash as heavily as last year off the jumps I fear the rear mount may shatter. The good (and bad) point about the kit part is that it flexes a little so it tends to withstand a lot of abuse.

the reason you tear them, is that the long brace bends on a heavy impact, so no matter how much shimming you got in there.... your going to pull that arm out. I am not saying you won't pull a pin on the Alloy mounts, but your going to need a much more significant impact.

Since fitting the ally blocks to Shorty's Durga he hasn't popped or broken an arm or any other part of the suspension.

He did break a rear stub axle at the F3's but that probably had more to do with the gorilla grip mechanic...:blush:

you ham fisted grease monkey :woot:

Thanks for the thoughts. The latest order is for some carbon 'A' trees, so that should take care of breaking the diff cover (only happened once so far) when using the regular uprights I think. Kind of peeved as I lost one of my metal suspension balls in the last crash, kind of expensive vs. the A tree ball. I'll see how the carbon suspension mounts stand up to my driving, I dont want to spend a lot on aluminum mounts and then have them messed up. Of course not having 45mph crashes into fixed objects might help some too :woot:

Ouch!! But then I'd like to see a B44 or an XX4 that hit a solid object at full chat to see how it compares. Hmmm, I wonder if there is a category for RC cars in the EuroNCAP tests :lol:. Durga would get a 5 star rating me thinks.

My front suspension mount (behind the bumper) has broken twice so far on the track. Both times it was due to head on collisions. The first was the stock plastic mount, the second was the carbon reinforced mount - So my latest purchase was the aluminum mount. Hopefully this will do the trick.

On the plus side; no other parts were affected or damaged when the suspension mounts broke :lol:

I almost lost a stock suspension ball after the last crash. Amazingly, I was able to find it on the dirt track. Talk about needle in a haystack.

I'd be curious how a carbon fiber car would hold up also. Those B44's seem to have a stout drive train, but the Durga's plastic seems like it would last longer with impacts, so I'll keep it.

Speaking of missing suspension balls...I had to make one out of a shock mount ball that came with my aeration damper kit. Silly me tossed out the origional plastic balls thinking "now I'm set, I got the metal ones". Not when it goes flying, lol.

I remember someone posting that the TA05 hingepins were longer? They are 3x46mm, the same as the DB01 front hingepins. The DB01 rear hingepins are 3x48.5mm. I just ordered some 3x49.7mm titan coated hingepins. Might have to shave them a little.

For those people that have changed the locknut in the diff's; Did you get the tamiya blue ones, or another make all together?

Are people having issues with the diff locknuts?

I can't find anything about a Tamiya Hop-Up motor mount anywhere and I neeeeed to see one (sorry if I seem to be obsessed, its because I am!!!).
Where can I find one please.