Some useful info here :thumbsup:

Is anyone using a brass bulkhead in addition to the servo and under speedo weights ?

Hi
Could someone point me in the direction of a good base setup for an X6 for grass please.
I copied the Ellis setup and it felt good but noticed its dated 2009 and I wondered if there is a more current one.
I unfortunately snapped the screw that goes through my diff to set the tension twice! I obviously set it to tight but have little experience of ball diffs and didn't want to melt the balls in to the plastic gear inside again from running one to loose(I then switched to gear diffs in my old B4).
I also popped a shock cap so an eventful evening!
Looking forward to getting back out there, it felt pretty close in the short runs I had.
Very happy.
:)

Phil that is the one that comes with the kit instructions.Lately "the top guys"have been using the "T Saddle pack" layout and the set up is here for that,look at Big E EPR NAT set up please, a bit further down,thats about it,experiment with some small adjustments from these to suit yourself,were all a little bit different,(different Batts,esc,shells ect)-i`ll give you a hand with your diff if you want??:p

I rebuilt my diff today, I'm more happy with it.
I'll run the setup I've got now, if I beat you I'll stick with it. :)
If not I'll try the other one.
;)

Shame about this weather, I'd go and do some practising!
:)

Hi Guys,

Have only run the X6 for 3 meetings now but I seem to be suffering from oversteer to the point that the car feels really unbalanced and quite unpredictable to drive. I’m guessing this is partly down to building it up in the T config Lipo set-up. To be honest the reason I chose this as opposed to saddle was it was the only way to fit my enormous core receiver in:confused: See my car in the ‘show me your X6’ thread last week.

Running only at Coventry which is a high grip, medium bumpy astro track with very worn cut staggers on the front and yellow mini spikes on the rear as per 99% of the competition.

Initial set-up was as per Dan Greenwoods Martime Raceway sheet but I realise he was using a stubby rather than T there but it’s not far of Ellis’ 2012 EPR anyway. Since then in an attempt to reduce steering I’ve taken servo weights out, (only brass bulkhead left) reduced front camber and reduced steering lock but it can still roll it on the slowest of hairpins. I have no confidence at all to push.

If I am to be racing most of the time at Cov would it be a good idea to move to saddles or do you think I should just persevere with set-up changes first? Any suggestions? I'm a smooth, steady driver, rather than have Ellis speed thumbs, and I guess I'm saying if I went back to saddles and added weight to the front (pre T) basically would it be easier to drive? It's not as if I'm at nationals and having to push the X6 to 110% to keep up with the competition.

Thanks in advance.

To me it sounds like there is still too much weight up front, since you mention you have taken "out" front weight but still retain a brass bulkhead. This bulkhead could be a lot of your problem since depending on what make you run this will add a LOT of weight over the front wheels. Ellis nor any of the team rarely use a brass bulkhead and at best most of us add only between 10/20 gramm on top of a standard plastic bulkhead.

Also, make sure your diff is nice and smooth too, since it is not unheard of for a diff that is not at its best to make the car do funny things like you describe.

Laslty, if these changes/suggestions are still leaving you with too much front end grip, try running the saddles side by side across the rear where the stick normally goes, that will reduce fthe ront end for sure!!

As Darren said the front bulkhead is only really run indoors, outside the most I normally run is 20-25g on the plastic bulkhead.

Check the ride height is correct as well, with the shell on.

It should be ok though other wise post your full set up and we can check it over.

E.

Cheers guys,

Replaced the brass bulkhead last night and checked the ride height and it was running at about 26mm so have reduced to 22mm as per the attached set up sheet. One thing, were exactly are the ride heights measured?

Well I think there is an attachment - hard to tell. Said uploading to oople but can't see it in the preview.

Here is it.

Had to convert from a .docx back to a .doc:)

Set up looks fine.

I would think the bulkhead will make a big difference.

Rude height is measured at the rear from floor to chassis bottom. The front I tend to set just looking at the front arms so they are level but you can eye it from the side and set the chassis level.

E.

Thanks.

No excuses now:)

I'd also remove the cut staggers and run old-style staggers instead.

I've run my X6 at Coventry quite a bit and it's awful on cut-staggers (mega grip-roll and oversteer), but fantastic on normal staggers.

Get yourself a couple of jewelery scales (about £5 off ebay) so you can check your front/rear weight distribution. The weight of the lipos and radio gear can make a big difference, so the only way to get it right is to measure it. 65/35 is a good safe starting point. More weight on the rear if its wet, more on the front if you're understeering.

Yep, I am using the stagger ribs rather than the cut staggers and they are pretty worn too.

I'll have a look at weight distribution tonight though - thanks!

what's the best way of measuring 65/35 weight split front to rear?

2 sets of jewelery scales, and 2 blocks of wood/metal the same height as the scales for the other 2 wheels to go on so that the car is flat. Or just buy 4 scales, since they're only a couple of quid a set.

In terms of the maths, it is:

Rear% = ( RearWeight / TotalWeight ) * 100

Thanks Dale :thumbsup:

hey mainey, Michael here from last week. Didnt see you out at Cov last night, LOL. It was raining anyways and of course cancelled.

Last week when i was racing with you I was still running stick batteries. Now i have switched to saddle and my goodness what an improvment. I agree with the diff thing, if its a bit tight even the slightest I get oversteer going slow around corners. It can be a bit annoying when your car wont turn.

I am also 100g lighter with the new chassis and I can throw it around more which is how i like to drive. I feel i am taming the car now rather than it taming me. Id defo go for saddle and see how it goes. I still have my brass bulkhead on but since it works very well for me im going to leave it as it is. Plus, there might be an indoor meet at Silverstone if lots of races get rained out.

PS: switching to losi big bore springs too.

Does anybody have a decent set-up for the X-6^2 using D-boots nanobite tires? I really struggled finding a drivable setup last week at the EOs in Poland.

Problem was that the car would flip really easy, i must admit that most people had these problems (using different cars) however the X-6^2 seems to be the worst car on the track.

It's all about the tires! Cut some pins off, glue the sidewalls, get the right inserts.

Hi all.

I have just ordered a X6 squared conversion kit, and would like to enquire on a few setup related questions in advance of receiving it. Many thanks in advance for your help...

A little background - I race 1/10 buggies on non permanent indoor carpet tracks. Layout is different every time, but they are typically tight with a few jumps (example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcUCE...eature=related ).

A majority of people use 10.5T modified motors, massive power is not required. More importantly, tires are imposed and are not great for carpet, they're probably more appropriate for clay (and still probably not the best...) HPI Fullslot front and HPI Megabites rear - no minipins allowed, so grip is good but not as high as it could be.

Finally, because we build the tracks late on evenings before races and for the race only, there is really no time to chase setups... you have to start close, hence my queries, I'm a bit scared starting a car I don't know without a half decent setup...

I also run (but not race) on larger outdoor astro tracks, but for that I have a specific car (well for now...); my focus is really on those tight indoor tracks.

That being said:

1. My "donor" car is a B4.1 FT Worlds edition, with the aluminium rear hubs, and I am currently using the "C tower with shaved U-brace" mod, which works quite well on carpet. Will there be any point in keeping those hubs and/or the C-hub-shaved-u-brace mods, or should I just use the B44 hubs supplied with the conversion kit?

2. A couple of setups I'm considering as a starting point (e.g. Ellis Stafford - Area 51) require the E Speed camber links, which are unfortunately out of stock - any alternative to running that?

3. Based on my reading, I was considering the T-Saddle LiPo configuration as the most appropriate. I however currently only have stick packs (heavy 6400mah ones!) and before I buy some saddles (or shorties?), could someone confirm that the T-saddle will bring meaningful advantages over the "standard pack across" configuration? Or I should take it easy and not bother at this stage?

Many thanks in advance,
Nick

Hi Nick.

Right you are!

Then having an X-6 will be a real advantage. Compared to the B4 and other cars, it's less critical to get the set-up exactly right. In the ballpark will do.

I'm not even sure the conversion comes with B44 hubs. The full car kit does.
If you liked the C-hub mod on the B4, you'll probably like it on the X-6 as well. It works the same way.


Yes, Use hole '2' on the bulkhead, shave it down about 1.5mm, and use hole 'B' on the hub. There is hardly any difference. If you've got 'short neck' ball studs, those are 1mm lower already. The AE ones are black, the losi ones are shiny.

Stick packs work very well. In fact, I find that the T-lipo layout and shorty packs have the weight too central. I feel regular saddle is the best compromise, with stick across a close second. But really, this is a very subtle, 'touchy-feely' kind of set-up adjustment. Takes a good driver to feel the difference. Getting the tires and inserts right is 10 times more important, having springs and damping in the ballpark is next.
If your stick packs are heavy (I use LRP packs, possibly the heaviest out there), you probably won't need to add weight. But if you do, under the ESC is a good place. Aim for between 64.5% and 65% rear weight, I think you'll be close to that already.

Hi Nicholas, the set up guru himslef (Elvo) has already responded, so nothing I can really add there to help you, however, not sure where you had been used to looking, but the E-Speed rear hangers are in stock here in the UK and available to purchase through any of the X-Factory UK retialers if you want some. In my opinion they are a very useful set up essential, especially on our type of tracks, Ellis is rarely seen without them.....

Elvo,

Many thanks for the great feedback, this is quite helpful. I will try to keep the lower "C" hub on the factory team rear aluminium carriers (although I'm not sure I visualize how it' sgoing to pan out with the instructions to reverse the hubs to keep the camber links straight across), as well as sand the bulkhead to lower the inner ballstud (saw a video from Paul Sinclair doing that). This should pretty much replicate the "shaved U Brace with C hub" B4.1 mod).

Good to hear your comments on the T-saddle configuration. I will stick to... sticks for now, and maybe borrow some saddles to test.

A few additional questions though, if you don't mind:

1. I'm currently using a GHEA 30g brass bulkhead with good success... makes sense keeping that in (instead of weight under the ESC?

2. I understand that all I need to convert my B4.1 FT worlds edition is B4 outdrives and their corresponding bearings; is that correct or are there other recommended parts to procure (sorry it's a bit off topic)?

3. I'm not sure I understand the actual change that the E Speed hanger brings - I suppose it is shortening the link, but in terms of position, is it higher or lower than standard (still wondering how that may work with regards to my shaved u-brace/c hub mod...).

4. I am using ae standard shocks with Silver (3.85) /Silver (2.1) AE springs - should I expect to have to change with the X6?

5. Opinions on sway bars? I don't run any at the moment, is it recommended or more a nice to have (remember I'm not running minipins, so grip is not massive).

6. Finally, would your "Petit Race 2010" setup be a good starting template, or did you squeeze some improvements since then?

Thanks a lot :)

Thank you, I didn't check in the right places (or country!). An order will be on the way soon...

> 4. I am using ae standard shocks with Silver (3.85) /Silver (2.1) AE springs - should I expect to have to change with the X6?

I'm no setup expert but that's all I used last year, at least give it a try.

Great, thanks.

The GHEA bulkhead has been on and off my car dozens of times, but it hasn't been on in a year or more. It does what it does: it puts weight right up at the nose. Keeps the nose down, but I can't help but feel it slows rotation (yaw) down as well. I know Ellis feels the same way. We both like the bulk of the weight central in the car, in the ESC and battery area.
Besides, AE did a good job on picking the right kind of plastic for the bulkhead.

I think that's all. The only thing I can think of is: some of the earlier B4.1 kits came with very cheesy front arms which liked to bend and stay bent, altering ride height and caster. The old plastic or graphite is preferred.

It lowers the inner ballstud and brings it out some. The 'up' position is a mm or two lower than stock, the 'down' position is even lower.
Note that Ellis often uses shaved down Racers Edge rear hubs, putting the ball stud 25.5mm above the hinge pin, which is exactly what AE's 'C' hubs are doing as well.

No, those are good. It would be good to have the AE blue fronts in your box as well, in case those HPI front tires start generating some decent grip.

I only use them if I have to. Like if I'm desperate for steering. On most of Ellis' set-ups, you'll see he uses a thin bar and the shocks in the inner hole on the arm. On most of my set-ups, there is no bar, but the shocks are in the middle hole. Both options bring the same kind of balance in the car and have more or less the same roll stiffness, but they just bring a different feel to the rear end. It's a very personal thing. I'm smooth, Ellis more aggresive. Take your pick. [/QUOTE]

That should be good. It's not far off the Ellis Area 51 set-up.

Bruno,

You're awesome, I can't thank you enough. I'd offer you a Duvel, or Blue Chimay if I was closer ;)

Nicolas, did you get my email OK earlier with regards your order? Everything is in stock and ready to go for you, if you can just get in contact with the office on Monday to clarify your payment details, that would be great.....

Will do.

Well the first test was directly at a race, and was quite succesfull (ended 6th of B main out of 5 series overall - and I am a 1/8 buggy driver beginning in 1/10 2WD).

I did the shaved caster block mod, put e-speed hangers, dremelled the chassis for saddle packs and used Elvo's recommendations and mostly used one of his latest carpet setup. I didn't receive the racer's edge rear hubs in time to lower the rear link to a "C hub" level but that's for next time.

The car was initially pushy on exit - note that tires were restricted to sub-optimal AKA rebar/impact so we didn't get yellow minipin grip levels, which probably explains the push (front tires not gripping enough). Changing the toe block to 3° solved the push, and the car was dialled (at least for my beginner's perception)!

One question though: I have attempted to achieve a 65/35 weight distribution (@1700g) but didn't manage more than 64/36 short of putting more lead in rear pods, or left and right of the motor. Any thoughts? Should I load the rear some more?

Note that I have put 2x25g of rudebits' brass under the saddles (didn't use the "under servo" piece as this made the weight distribution even worse).

I also had some issues with the kyosho velvet shocks that I put in the rear - they are a tad shorter than AE's and ride heigth was difficult to get to 24mm, but in the end that worked out.
Thanks!
Nick

64/36 is fine for indoors. And 1700g is a bit heavy, you might want to leave the brass under the lipo out.

On the Kyosho shocks, be sure to use the tall plastic top caps. And if they're still not long enough, losi or AE shock rod ends will stretch overall length even more.

Great, thanks for the advice - I will remove the under lipo weight.

I had already ordered Kyosho "Long Big Bore Shock Ends" and will check the tall caps.

How about shocks - I have loaded the Kyosho velvets (standard bore) with 500 and 350 cst oil and 3b pistons, and 12mm associated springs (3.75 front / 2.10 rear) - rear seemed a bit hard on the stand (but actually did not feel bad on the track)?

3-B is my favourite piston in Kyosho SB shocks. And I run 3.5 front, 2.3 rear spring rates, so you're in the ballpark.

Quick question what difference do soft, medium and hard inserts make?

Wanted........!!!
 

As above

Latest X6 Squared indoor setup wanted............???

Which battery layouts, running either Losi or AE (V1) shocks for indoor carpet/polished floor surface !!!

cheers :)

Difficult to give a complete setup that will just work. How's the car going at the moment? Some great comments above by Elvo on the different battery layouts.

I finished with the following at the Broxtowe cracker. Came in third behind Craig Collinson and Eugene Galley :thumbsup:

Any set-ups for southport indoors ?