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-   -   TEAM ASSOCIATED "B44" (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4476)

mattym0310 13-11-2007 08:33 PM

p.s..... bro dontcha mean back to back?? lol

AndyM 13-11-2007 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyM (Post 70585)
has anyone done any back-to-back testing with the bj4 against a B44??


thats what i said isn't it??;):rolleyes:

AndyM 13-11-2007 08:42 PM

nd yehh, it does look good with the azarashi shelll

Richard Lowe 13-11-2007 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IceMike (Post 70521)
i havent had any grip rol yet. the car is straight out the box. an i know i have had plenty of grip to gip grip roll.

If you are using the box setup the car will understeer and lift the inside front wheel on corner exits on our tracks, it won't feel as 'planted' and stable as it could either ;)

The Azarashi is mad :o

Oliv996 14-11-2007 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gayo (Post 70551)
To avoid grip rolling, you can go radical and put a thin layer of CA glue on the outside wall of the front tyres. It is VERY effective for taking out front grip, believe me.
And if you went too far, use a sanding drum on a Dremel and take off the CA. Easy and reversible :cool:

Gayo: my master

Oliv996 14-11-2007 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattym0310 (Post 70626)
just found this pic of one with a team azarashi bodyshell, looks great i think...
http://www.rc10b4.com/gallery/data/500/649Img_0242.jpg

Ooooooooooooooh it's mine indeed !!!

Yes I fitted a Tateego body shell (oOple made a repport on it during the last Worlds in Japan). It requires some mods on the main chassis plate and some little extra cuts on the body shell but it's quite an easy job to do. I think very soon, Team-Azarashi will update their website with B44 fitment how to do ;)

If someone want further pics or details on how to do, please let me know...

Olivier

Gayo 14-11-2007 09:47 AM

Olivier : my master :p

Gayo 14-11-2007 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by delanobe (Post 70552)
Glueing the side is less extreme than cutting the rows I think?? :confused:

I think it's more extreme. Well, it doesn't feel the same.
Cutting spike takes away front "twitchyness" (:confused:) but still allows grip roll because the yellow compound is sticky enough to grip even without spikes.
Gluing the side allows the tyre to slide on hard cornering. The outside front tyre can't dig on the track and send you on 2 wheels K-2000 style :D

Try it. You don't have to go crazy, 5-8 mm is enough (covering the "minipin" letters on the side) and remember it's reversible with a sanding drum.

delanobe 14-11-2007 10:16 AM

I will give it a try!

But I ordered the B44 anyway, couldn't resist :D

Thanks for the tip!

ryan 15-11-2007 07:28 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Got my B44 all built up now, Havent got the shell sprayed up but it now has the undertray and rear wing on. its a very nice kit to build even though i think the instruction manual isnt the greatest. Looks wicked!:D

Ryan

Southwell 15-11-2007 08:05 PM

Thats very neat wiring for you Ri ;)

ryan 15-11-2007 08:17 PM

Lol, i didnt think it was to bad:p I had to use blue wire to the battery as i had no black long enough. when you getting yours then Ian????

zaquiz 16-11-2007 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oliv996 (Post 70711)
Ooooooooooooooh it's mine indeed !!!

Yes I fitted a Tateego body shell (oOple made a repport on it during the last Worlds in Japan). It requires some mods on the main chassis plate and some little extra cuts on the body shell but it's quite an easy job to do. I think very soon, Team-Azarashi will update their website with B44 fitment how to do ;)

If someone want further pics or details on how to do, please let me know...

Olivier


NIIIICE! I want that shell aswell! Do u know where I can get it on the internet? I live in spain and normally buy everthing over internet in US stores.

Oliv996 16-11-2007 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zaquiz (Post 71088)
NIIIICE! I want that shell aswell! Do u know where I can get it on the internet? I live in spain and normally buy everthing over internet in US stores.

I don't think there is a official dealer of Team-Azarashi in Spain so the best way to buy one should be to order it directly on www.team-azarashi.com ;)

Olivier

Southwell 16-11-2007 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryan (Post 71007)
Lol, i didnt think it was to bad:p I had to use blue wire to the battery as i had no black long enough. when you getting yours then Ian????

Ill have a go with yours first. ;)

drinternat 16-11-2007 09:55 AM

I hope Oopie is going to do a build and review of this car. I hear its going to be available in the UK towards the end of November.

ryan 16-11-2007 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Southwell (Post 71090)
Ill have a go with yours first. ;)

Only for a days supply of cheese burgers:)

Bigwrenn 17-11-2007 06:55 AM

I couldn't resist, just one more picture of my B44:
http://www.lsarc.com/gallery/data/1/B44_030.jpg

Just need to spray the shell now! :D

Funkymojo 19-11-2007 06:21 PM

Hi guys, wow i can't wait to get the B44. Will the Jconcepts BJ4WE aluminum front caster blocks and ball cups fit the B44? Thanks guys... :)

IceMike 19-11-2007 06:22 PM

the angles are differenet but i think they should work

Funkymojo 19-11-2007 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IceMike (Post 71756)
the angles are differenet but i think they should work

Thanks for the reply mate..are the angles really different? I thought they were the same...

IceMike 19-11-2007 07:00 PM

nah slightley different but i would think they would work the same ish. only difference is that the screws that hold the steering are different. with the ali ones you have to screw the steering and then it floats in the ali hub. and with the new ones you screw into the hub and then you put a gromit in the steering to make it float there. so i would think you would have to use the bj4 steering to

delanobe 23-11-2007 10:16 AM

A little update.

Yesterday I started with the built of the B44 and the first thing I noticed that it just feels more professional than my TRF501x.

-Screws are perfect
-The materials used are also lighter and the carbon is of a nicer quality.
-The diffs also feels more robust and durable, this + the closed gearbox is a serious +.

So far I'm very pleased with the kit :D

frogger 23-11-2007 11:02 AM

Not sure I totally agree.

I've just completed the shocks on my B44 and they are the worst shocks I have ever built in my life! :mad: It must be the poorest design in shocks I have ever seen and bleeding them - what a joke! The shock caps are not threaded properly at all.

I read somewhere it says some pro's rebuild the shocks, sometimes after every race! I'd rather stab myself in the eye than do that.

Does anybody use a different kind of shock on their Associated cars? Maybe even Kyosho shocks? Kyosho must be the best shock to build and work on there is and with the new RB5 shock bottoms they just don't leak.

delanobe 23-11-2007 11:06 AM

The shocks are indeed a pain in the "ss but when you know how to build them they are the best shocks available.
If you use this guide all should go very smooth.

http://users.pandora.be/elvo/12/8/1.html

jimmy 23-11-2007 11:06 AM

The AE shocks do work very well - but the Tamiya ones I think are a lot better and nicer to work on. The tamiya shocks are based on the AE ones (same dimensions and pistons)

jim76 23-11-2007 11:23 AM

You can buy a different cap for the top that incorporates a bladder. Can't remember who makes them but they are about £10 a set. A friend had these on his B4 and it improved them 100%. removes the painful bleeding process and eliminates air in the shock.

i agree, kyosho RB5 shocks are the best. sooooooo smooth and leak free, especially if fitted with Northy's special "orings"!!

jimmy 23-11-2007 11:27 AM

Bladders have been around for many years so there's a reason the AE and Tamiya 501X and Losi shocks don't have them - goodness knows what it is tho.
The AE shocks are in desperate need of an update if you ask me - an easier way to install / remove the orings would be my only real wish.

frogger 23-11-2007 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim76 (Post 72476)
Northy's special "orings"!!


Oooh, where do I get some of them?

Elliott Hopkins 23-11-2007 11:59 AM

The AE compatible caps with bleed screws are by Yokomo.

Elliott.

jimmy 23-11-2007 12:10 PM

Are we talking about bleed screws or bladders here? or indeed both? I used the Yokomo caps on the B4 shocks, never bladders tho.

delanobe 23-11-2007 12:13 PM

I have these and they don't leak at all.

http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/Associated-B...QQcmdZViewItem

jimmy 23-11-2007 12:23 PM

I never liked those, just for the simple fact they look naff after you roll over a few times - which I do a lot :D

super__dan 23-11-2007 12:24 PM

I'd be very interested in bladders for AE shocks as well!!!!!!!!!!

Trouble with those shock caps is though in general I like blue anodizing, I somehow think those caps look chavvy, maybe it's just me?

delanobe 23-11-2007 12:24 PM

I never crash so... :wtf:

ryan 23-11-2007 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by super__dan (Post 72494)
I like blue anodizing, I somehow think those caps look chavvy, maybe it's just me?

The blue parts that come with the FT team kit are cool, those shock caps are definetly very chavvish lol

delanobe 23-11-2007 12:29 PM

The blue color is the price you have to pay for shock's that don't leak :D

Southwell 23-11-2007 12:35 PM

Mine don't leak and their not blue ;)

stefke 23-11-2007 12:51 PM

although I like the Tamiya shocks very much, I think there can be no discussion : Losi shocks are in many ways the best. PERIOD. Mostly because they are by far the easiest to work on. Changing pistons or fitting internal limiters is sooooo easy. Bleeding is a no-job

AE shocks were good 20 years ago, but they seriously need updating !

The Kyosho shocks on the ZX5 were also easy to work on, but I couldn't prevent them from leaking.

Northy 23-11-2007 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frogger (Post 72486)
Oooh, where do I get some of them?

Follow the link \/ :D


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