It is a really nice dirt track:
RCRT Duisburg e.V.

Very nice! It's the kind of dirt tracks we have in Greece.

http://rcdevil.smugmug.com/2012/Elec..._MG_9889-M.jpg

Great track! We used to have a dirt track in Troisdorf, too, but as only a few committed members in our smallish club are willing to maintain the track and weather in Germany unfortunately is not like in Greece, we had to move on to astroturf.

yeh 400cst

it really depends on what surface and air temp to whether you want to run that hard though.

in running the kit pistons, so 1.2 rear, and in running 200cst tomorrow with a 1.9 spring.

but that's because its going to be 5degrees and the track is really bumpy.

looking at alot of Japanese tracks they tend to be smooth so would explain the use of 400.

What is a 1.9 spring?
By the way, i have seen this comparison chart:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/...ringsChart.pdf

Does this mean that i blue rear springs on the b-max 2 are the same as orange rear springs in b-max 4?

play in rear arms
 

Hi, i think it is to much play in rear arms.. the toe is changing pretty much when i rocking arms. Is it to bigholes for the pins? feels like it..

I use the AE springs. 1.9 is the spring rate.

That chart is misleading. All it does is match the names (super soft) to colours. It doesn't have any relation to spring rates from what I could find. For example the bmax4 super soft is harder than the bmax2 super soft

Have you fitted the front and rear inserts?

yes, i just now fitted bmax4 rear arms, and they are nice and tight, and free movement. just have to shave off 1mm on both sides of arm.

to much play i hub to.. option available in alu but to expencive. Try bmax4 hub to and see..

nice, bmax4 parts are much tighter! :) arms+hubs..

As i understand it, it is a philosophy of yokomo to have tight fronts without play and allow some play on the rear.
Even the B-Max 4 has some play on the rear lower arms.

well never heard that.. bmax4 arms and hubs are much tighter ennyway.

If it helps handling with much play that changes toe angle on and off power cant realy see that.

Hi i also had play in rear arms (front to back) movement, but fitted a shim this gives extra tuning as you can alter the shim to change wheelbase via the arms this is the same as tamiya and kyosho buggies ;)

this was not front\back movment.. sideways..

I have these issues also. Not sure how much it troubles handling tho.

mine had small play in the arm but mainly forwards and backwards, but I cant really see it will make any difference to how the car handles on offroad tracks. (or with my driving)
Probably more important the arms are free im my opinion.:)

there is forward backward movement which is due to antisquat. If u run 0 degrees u will have little to no play. By running antisquat you effectively lengthen the hinge pin. If you are worried about it just shim it out.

its not a design or manufacturing fault, its just maths and angles.

i beleive the Durango manual said to shim when runni g more anti squat. I don't think its an issue if u do or not though. When moving forward the arms will always be pushed back and wont move forward unless you go in reverse

its caused by anti squat angles effectively lengthening the hinge pin. Its not a design or manufacturing fault, just maths and angles. If you don't like it just shim it out, but to be honest once the car is rolling they will settle backwards and wont move forwards unless u hit reverse

Do you mean that B-max2 Mid is good on dirt tracks ?

Does anyone know if the b4 spur gears fit as a direct replacement? I am trying to gear the car down but the smallest pinion that fits with the standard spur is 20tooth so looking at larger spur as an alternative. Also how expensive are the slipper pads!!!! :o
Any help appreciated :)

B4 spur gears and slipper pads are a direct fit for the B-Max2. For the B-Max4, slipper pads are a direct replacement, but spur gears are different as their centre hole is bigger.

Thanks. I knew the 4wd spurs were different.
First time yokomo owner and absolutely love it!!
:drool:

Does anybody else think that the steering rack is weak? It seems really thin.

Not really....it does not stand out to me as a weak point...I quess time will tell!!:lol:

I think it should be fine. It's well protected and you have your servo saver.

Didn't experience any problems in one season of racing.

I didn't put the saver on! :cry:

Servo saver isn't needed. You have the flex of the plastic parts to give forgiveness. I've not run a saver in over 2 years and not done a servo.

Personally I just see it as another point of failure

Hi I have a rb6 but am nor getting on with it has any one here changed from the rb6 to the yokomo if so what do you think worth the change or not

Still building the bmax 2 MR can someone tell me what pitch the kit spur is is 48d.p or module 0.8?
Diff went together well but what balls are used in diff steel or carbide.

The instruction don't tell you to lubricate the gears in this correct?
I used finish line X-country dry oil on them will this be okay?
Threading the ball joints was eas,y too easy compared to other kits do they pop off? or strip the thread?#Just have to build theshocks do you use green slime on the o-rings?

I found the front camber links kept moving drastically after each run, as a quick fix at a meeting I put on associated turnbuckles with rpm cups. Has not moved since.

Also I didnt put any oil/grease on the gearbox internals as per the manual. It runs so quiet. And I used green slime on the shock orings

48pitch and the balls are tungsten covered carbide.

My new diff doesn't have any balls at all! :p

hee hee
my gear diff has been working a treat on carpet no balls for me too

what the parts no for the gear diff

B2-500GS

My gear diff ate itself inside lol.

Gonna back to ball diff and found it quicker anyway

Steve what wt oil were you running when she poped .. running 3000 at the mo

ANY ONE FROM THE MB MODELS / YOKO POSSY GOING TO THE LAST SILVERSTONE ROUND ON THE 9th ... would be great to put names to faces
cheers lee

800cst mate

I had issues with the gear diff though. Even without oil it was way too tight, felt like 50k oil so I removed the tiny shim under the pins. Fixed the tightness but may have caused the gears to eat themselves.

I think the issue is the casing being slightly too large making the outlive tight. A better solution may have been to shave half a mm off the outside casing where it meets the outdrive