ok so I haven't eaten and am a little tired, things aren't going real well.

Trying to read the setup sheets, seems a bit of a jumble, anyway whats the standard toe in rear, one says 4* and I only seem to have 0,5* to 2* toe in thingys.

same with standard caster block whats the stock 20*? then +/- 5* or 10*

Rear inboard toe in is 3 degrees, so you add or subtract from that with the rear hub inserts.

Kick up on the chassis is 25 degrees, so you add or subtract from that with the castor block inserts.

G

JUST BEAT ME TO IT!!!

Inboard toe-in is set at 3 Degrees as printed on the Blocks.
You then add or remove toe-in using the outer blocks.
Looking down on the car with the front of the car facing away from you.
When you put the insert in the side of the car Left or Right you get the toe in value that you can see printed on the insert. (+ increases toe-in, - reduces toe-in).

So 3 Degrees inboard, with the L+0.5 in the Left hub and the R+.5 in the Right Hub will give you 3.5 degrees toe-in.

Castor is similar.
Kick-up is 25 degrees.
When you put the Castor Block in you get the value next to the arrow pointing forwards (i.e. from back to the front of the car). The value must be the right way up for you to get the correct castor...

So with the +5 arrow pointing to the front of the car on both sides the castor will be 25+5 =30 Degrees.

Made this today, can't see this 1 snapping :D

gainsy , it looks good mate , how much to make me one ?

Cheers Phil :)
I will have a look & see if i have any more old shock towers i can convert, the 1 i used was a 4mm version i used to have on my b44
I tried it in alloy first but i prefer the carbon 1, also my drilling was none to good on the alloy 1
Will have a look when i get the kids in bed :D

let me know mate

Hi all,
i'm building my car... regarding the ball diff, I've noticed that the two small washers are different, i mean, one has a more "rounded" profile and has a diameter of 7.9mm instead of the other that is 8.0mm.
In the manual it says that the thrust is caged, but it isn't...
What is the correct sequence (1 or 2) for mounting the two different washers?
And then, when assembled the "thrust cage" in the correct sequence, on wich side will be the screw head?
Sorry, english is not my language, I attach an image that i hope will explain better than words the sequences...
Thanks!

http://www.codem.it/diff_210.jpg

Is one smaller diameter than the other? If so it should be next to the screw head. I must admit I didn't check mine, but I've had no issues.

G

Got mine today finally but few problems,no shims in the kit that i can find pt no 330363-1 or 2 nothing at all looked at all opened bags,the pins that go through the hexes the pins fall out,

Thanks for that..

Damn that servo arm looks pretty weak as others have said, im going to make one from CF tomorrow

Broken a ball cup screwing it in.. just went the whole side fell off other than that not a bad build.

Why are there a lot of extra parts that look like to the older style shocks?

Anyone running all electrics on one side and weight on the other? I don't really want to have to run a wire under the lipo area

Anyone running losi shocks? I am atm as haven't any others.

What pistons are people running?

And finally can I use rear losi 22 wheels if I change the hex? what about fronts?

Quote from Robocop . . . .Got mine today finally but few problems,no shims in the kit that i can find pt no 330363-1 or 2 nothing at all looked at all opened bags,the pins that go through the hexes the pins fall out, End Quote.
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Just put a bit of threadlock on the pins to stop them falling out too easily.

really wanted a 210, now starting to get put off, i know theres teething problems with any car but some of these seem fairly big issues to me

Most of the shims in the kit are plastic washers on the parts trees.

The extra parts are just on the parts trees.

I weighed mine tonight and it is almost perfectly ballanced left to right with the speed on the right and receiver and pt on the left. Many cars run the wire under the lipo, that's what the milled bit is for, don't worry it'll be fine. Put some tape on top of it to stop it moving if you are worried.

Kit shocks.

My indoor setup from York went up on the TD site today.

I think Losi wheels would fit with the Losi hex, no idea about fronts.

Nope friend of mine is building his too he has the sprue

Anyone know when the gear diff is being released and some more body shells?

I always find ball diffs a pain :(

Don't be put off. These posts are by finicky sods like me who want perfection. The reality is it's a superbly balanced car to drive and like all kits we will soon get used to its little quirks and nuances and how to side-step them.

The "weak " steering rack make give you a little flex and save a servo.

Beefing it up may give you a more expensive break.

+1 it may seem 'weak' but it seems pretty flexible so may not break as easy as we think , as said it will flex or break saving the servo maybe ?.