OK, so having just spent HOURS putting the Satoshi astro/carpet setup on my car, a few things don't add up, mainly to do with shock length and ride height. The one that I don't have any way of achieving is the low ride height, and looking at the pics from the RCWORLD magazine it looks like he is using some black (possibly plastic) shock bottoms - any idea what they may be from?

From what I can tell he has two spring set ups...
front the pictures the springs are X-Gear Reds ( front and rear.. or whatever is close to a Tamiya Blue and the shock bottoms are more than likely Kyosho or AE )

Also since the springs are X-Gear.. and they are shorter.. this is how he can get the low ride height... unlike the Tamiya springs which limit you to about 22mm ride height depending on the battery that you use :bored:;)

Thanks, that would explain it!

So with the B5 front conversion I can use B5 wheels... but can I just use jcon hex adapters for the rear n use B5 rear wheels too?

No problem

Let us know how the set up works out for you:)

Well, I've run the setup once on a bumpy grass track and it wasn't up to much, hooking in the slow corners and very unsettled over the bumps. Dropped the rear oil to #300 (#400 with 1.6mm pistons seems way over damped) and moved the shock to the inner hole in the wishbone (which gives more droop and a softer wheel rate) and the car was a lot better.

I'll give the Satoshi setup another go at the indoor venue but to be honest I don't think I'll stick with it, the shock positions don't suit the Tamiya springs.

Here's my TRF201XMW.
What parts do i need to order for a 12mm hex conversion at the back/front? And can u use the RB6 alu exotek wing mounts on this one?

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280...538/ty9afy.jpg

Wtf ...plastic????http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...psxhfcq1jk.jpg

Yes plastic diff gears. I changed my gears to the tamiya metal gears and also fitted the uprated tamiya orange/red orings as well.

Help ...I putted together the gear box but once I screw the motor plate the gears becomes a bit stiffer ???? What I'm doing wrong ?

When building diff, there are 2 shims. 1 for the diff and 1 for the layshaft. These can be mixed up easy. Check you have correct shim on layshaft and that you havent put wrong one on.

The gear diff as no play ,I have not apply any shim to it !

The shim is for the ball diff. This goes in between the 2 bearings when building the ball diff.

Ok you are using gear diff but you may have the wrong shim on layshaft which is allowing the gears to jamm up when you tighten the gearbox together. Just check you have used correct shim on the layshaft.

You are spot on ,thanx ,it was the wrong shim !
Stay in standby just in case lmao

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Don't underestimate the strength of plastic. With the right type and quality of plastic and a good mesh they will hold out just fine. Just try them to see if Tamiya did their homework, because the plastic parts have plenty of benefits over their metal counterparts.

Were plastic gears in Xray xb4 also and they were super smooth
I dont mind plastic gears at all. Hope these are as good as them.

I'm fitting the rear ally hex's, I assume this way is not the right way is it lol
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps69rm6bnj.jpg

With the spacing of the rear Tamiya 503 hex's you will need to put a 1.5mm spacer on the inside vice on the outside like in the picture:)

I used part #19804372 for the correct spacing;)
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product/9804372.jpg

Inside between the two bearings ???