I don't use alloy hinge pin holders so I'm not sure what they are like - but the kit setting is just about ZERO antisquat, to get more I had to dremel - it worked but you can only go so far. I basically thinned the top of the mount until it almost went thru to the steel ball inside.

Hey Jimmy, I was just wondering if you have purchased the new Tamiya carbon chassis for the durga?

No, it would have been good at the Euros because of the heat over there but I didn't see it for sale yet. My durga had the carbon top covers and shock towers on it. I ran the dogbones all round in practice then moved to CVD's up front and finally CVD's in the rear also - which didn't feel quite as nice as the dogbones for some reason but there might have been other factors.

I only ask because i saw it at rcmart for $37.. USD and i know you mentioned something about giving it a try. Another question i have for you: Do you think you might review the new Yokomo B-max? That would be great if you did my friend. You know we all love your reviews.:thumbsup:

give the man a break. :lol:

He already has a few other reviews to do first like the Aero and the hopped up Durga.

Why the review for a hopped up Durga. You never seen one before?

there is about 2-3 degree's before you start adding shims to reduce it, I think there is about as much as a B4.... just...

I thought the B4 had Zero before you start adding shims to increase it? Either way my car had very little to none - so dr.dremel made an appearance :thumbsup:

FWD not for the win :(

Another rear diff gone, same way :mad:

Could the nut be at fault even though the cars only had a handful of runs?

I recently had a failed rear diff, too, I noticed that some of the ca glue had slipped from under the diff plate and onto the bearings. I wonder if this had contributed at all? Luckily I had a spare as I have installed the front one way.

I know the choice of glue was discussed earlier but are there any other glues that have been used successfully for the diffs by you guys?

I used Loctite brand in the yellow bottle. About the best CA type glue you can buy imo. When my diffs fail, I'm going to just order the 501X diff halves & kiss the gluing issue goodbye. Unless there are some guys that have had any issues with the 501X halves not holding a good diff setting in the Durga???

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51286

These ones? Presumably you still need to glue the diff plates on, or is it different somehow?

you don't need to glue the plates to the 501X diff halves, actually, I think it is better not to at all with them, I just abused mine on a short course with a 5.5 motor in it.... lasted the whole day.

On a plus note, a young lad played chicken with the DB-01..... he scuffed my front tyre..... I snaffled his rear wishbone off mwhahahahaaa

I just noticed that the 501X diff rings are not keyed or flat to match the diff halves so they will not spin. But if that is what works right then so be it.

Any idea of the size of bearings I need to replace the metal bushings in the steering rack?

Don't know the exact size, I'm sure Sosidge or DCM will. I think they are 8mm outer/5mm inner diameter. Just ask your model bearing supplier for four "Tamiya 850" bearings though 'cos that's what they are.

Found some really posh ones on the website for Far Eastern shop under Tamiya part number TA-42111. Pukka TRF flourine sealed ones but you only get 2 and they are $5.95 a pack. I got mine from a bearing supplier on fleabay - just type in 850 bearing, cost about £8 inc postage for 10.

any bearing this size 5x8x2.5mm will fit.

It's what I used to replace the very same bushing of the steering rack. Works fine :thumbsup:

These are what I ordered. 1 buck a piece. Can't beat that!
http://www.avidrc.com/shop/?action=item&id=78

Wow!!!! $1 USD for a bearing. I guess you really can't beat that price. Pretty soon us Americans will be wiping our butts with dollar bills. :p

wish I had seen this before!!! could of saved you some cash

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5x8-x2-5mm-Blu...742.m153.l1262