Make sure the driveshaft isn't coming into contact with the locking nut inside the diff outdrive, sounds like it might not be all the way inside the outdrive

I counter sink the head of the droop screw in to the arm to give extra droop! even with a 0 degree block it has plenty of droop

The nut is pretty much all the way down, any further and the diff is too tight. I'm getting the same problem when the suspension is fully extended so the driveshaft is at the opposite end of the outdrive.

Acorn , check your CVDs...Invert right and left cvds , if the problem inverts too , it seems the pin of the cvd is in "the wrong hole"...
Sorry for my approximative english.

Hmmm, dumb question here but are the hubs on the right sides? very easy to put them the wrong way round as they look universal but there is a deffinate way they go on, i accidently put mine on the wrong way round when i built mine
Just a thought :)

Heres a few pics of mine showing fully compressed, fully extended & the diff outdrive with the nut on the left side of the car & fully in, i compressed the spring a few times with pliers before i put it in & gave the nut a light tap to allow it to go in properly

Thanks both. I'm reasonably confident its not an issue with the diff/outdrives, but never say never! I'll check the hubs and the position of the pin in the cvd tonight after work and let you know the outcome. Cheers for your help.

make sure drive shafts arent catching the slots in the diff outputs, ie to much travel in the shocks

your missing your rear bumper :confused:

Yep i sure am, can't see what difference it makes having it on to be honest

Where did you get those spacers that go in the arm holder in the rear? If they were in the kit then Im missing mine

Same with the other spacers

I got the spacers from DMS Racing, they came in a pack of 6, 2 x 1.5mm 2 x 2mm & 2 x 2.5mm, i think they were about £2 a pack

Sorted now thanks guys, issue was the pin in the cvd, so a nice simple fix. Thanks for your help.

Good to hear it is all sorted :D

Check the online manuel. The tree number in the original manual is wrong.

Take a look at Gainsy's middle picture.

I cannot understand the logic of this.

The rear arm holders two middle screw holes are threaded. How does that match up with to nuts thats locked in plastic?
And on top of that the two screws needed are 30mm counter sunk, but there's no CS where they go?
On top of that: when you look in the manual, both original and online, and check the exploded views the rear arm holder has different part numbers for RM or MM. But when i look the part numbers up on the durango site, only one of them is the arm holder, and it's the arm holder thats threaded.

This all make no sense to me.

I would think the armholder had no threading and that normal flat screws were to be used.

I think the 'arm holder' needs to be threaded for the rm but not for the mm but it isnt really a problem, i just held everything in place and wound the screw thro the whole lot,everything pulled down and tightend nicely

as for the c/s they is meant to be a small bumper on the rear that is c/s so the c/s head locate into it.

:thumbsup:

Well got my shell all sorted on it last night and so forth. I'll be honest I'm not loving it at present, so am tempted to head back to a Cougar SV. At least there are spares for it lol

Car was pretty good on track, just can't get to like it.

whats not to like it handels well its strong what more do you need

Bit confused about that mikey.. if it was good why change.. and only after a few goes with it. For me it looks great body is sleek and looks great. On of the best looking buggies out there imho. And if it drives half as good as it looks, I will be very happy.

Spares, total lack of info and so forth. Just hope there will be some more spares arriving before the MK GP.

I know I've only given it one run, but just ain't fussed about the car anymore. Yes it went well etc. We'll see what happens at MK.

RE the looks, the paint job has to be right. My colours have worked on lot of other shells, but this one mmm the jury is still out...

Maybe it's the whole RC overload thing

Spares as far as i'm aware.. should be in sometime very soon... but thats been the case for a while. Who cares a shell is a shell in a way.. its how the car drives that does the talking.. yeahg could be. P.S. You have PM on FBook:)

A few years back before there were decent online resources you'd be right about pretty much all cars - but saying there's a total lack of info when you're constantly reading a forum with absolutely TONS of info is a bit mad.

:woot:

The re-release holiday buggy from Tamiya looks good, give that a try! :thumbsup:

I appreciate the input from the forum and agree that there is unofficial information overload these days, but that's the nature of the internet...

I was just expecting a bit more technical tips direct from TD. I.e. lots of comments re how to build the diff etc. I've not had a prob with mine, but would have thought TD would have done a clear guide to put all the variations to bed?

Fingers crossed for TD with the winter season on then 2012

Yes the castor info and so forth was a good one :thumbsup:

I dunno maybe if I'd got the car in spring it'd be a bit more yay about it. Pending winter blues?

Anyway no track time this weekend and decided to work instead overtime to pay pending £260 per tyre bill :(

£260/Tyre Bill :confused:

Should have checked with the manufacturer about running costs before you bought that!
Maybe a manufacturer tech tip may have helped?:D

Indeed ;) should have bought German, better MPG more power

Crappy unpopular tyre size.. My old 225/40/18 Pilot Sport were far cheaper!

Anyway fingers crossed for a bumper TD delivery next week

Really hope gear diff lands soon

Mikey trust me I have tried the TLR 22 and DEX210 back to back and I find the DEX210 much easier to drive and better handling than the TLR 22 and that is straight out of the box without doing any tweaking. I have had no issues with the DEX210 so far and I have been quite brutal with it :)

Yeah I'm not knocking it's track performance..

TLR22 never interested me from day one.

Anyway catch up with you at MK :) - hopefully we'll have enough spares between us lol -

Looks like more 210 items coming through. Fingers crossed for mk

Where ?? :(

Check out this page for some cool bling for your durango
http://www.hiro-seiko.com/product.php
The spacers i have on my dex210, got them from DMS Racing
About £2 a pack :D

Right! Got it. Doesn't show in either manual 8/
Thanks.

Here is a pic to show , it will be floating about on one of the part trees ,


http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4498/bumperm.jpg
By andypearson at 2011-11-10

HTH

Yep. Found it. Thank you.

Now I've got an issue with the diff.

I recall i read somewhere that there is a difference in the inner and outer diameter of the two shims surrounding the thust. But for the life of me I cant remember whitch goes into the outdrive first...

Someone who can remember?

My issue was the circlip fell out but now I've got it all taken apart I'd like to get it in right.

The smaller of the two thrust washers should go against the screw.

Thanks.

A piece of advise...
Remember to insert the spring when assembling the diff. Not doing so will break the locknut when you tighten.

Now I had to improvise a new lock nut 8/

Have an issue.. Im running the RM4 configuration on the 210 & after a couple of practice & race decided to tear down the car. Did the norm, tore down & rebuild the diff. No Issues.

Thats until i came to the reassembling back the gearbox.
Spun the output shaft & it was ok. All went well till i tighten the 3 long screws on the motor plate. Then the output shaft cant/hard to turn. Put the motor plate on and found it wasnt really flat (Just a little tweak).

Could that be the reason?

You have overtightened the gearbox screws, back them off a bit & it will be fine

Cheers Gainsy..

My mate told me about screws being flush & locktite but it slipped my mind.