I am very new to indoor racing and to be honest i am struggling to keep up now with all the advice on setups :confused:

So my question is subjective i know but can you experianced guys give me the changes you would make to my stock 22 built as per instructions for Taplow please.

Many Thanks:thumbsup:

Friday at Taplow was the first time I ran my 22 and my setup is not yet 100% dialed so take from it what you will. Shortening the wheelbase made a big improvement for that track. The rear was still stepping out a bit in the corners (possibly due to the 4.5 degree rear toe in). Good steering generally but would very much like a bit of more on power steering.

Mid motor
Front:
Stock pistons/27.5W/Green spring
Shock mounting on tower middle and wishbone middle holes
Camber link 1-A, no spacers
Camber -2 (will try -1 to -1.5 next time)
Toe 0
Narrow Yellow Mini pins with 2 outside rows cut off

Rear
Short wheelbase
Stock pistons/27.5W/Orange spring
Shock mounting on tower middle and wishbone inner holes
Camber link 2-C, 2mm spacers by the tower and 3mm by the rear hub
Camber -2
Toe 4.5 HRC block (will go down to 3 degrees I recon or maybe 3.5)
Anti squat 3 degrees
Yellow Mini pins

50g weight on the rear
74gr weight under the short lipo
Novak Ballistic 6.5 with 19t pinion and stock spur
Ride height wishbones level

Defo reduce your rear toe if you want more on-power steering.

Or maybe lengthen the rear link by running in the 1 position on the camber block?

For more power on steering I'd reduce anti squat to 2'. Will give less weight transfer to rear end, will however give a bit more off power steering too

Was helping people on Saturday on moto arena and that was one thing that made a signifficant difference

And drill out the pistons, 56 front with 2 extra at 55 and 55 rear with 2 extra at 54. 30w front 27.5w rear. Cars I've felt with kit pistons just feel dead on the table.

Oops, sorry I ment 2-B

Thanks for that frogger. Will make the changes to mine and then see how it feels and go from there. Being so new to all this the info on here is fantastic so thank you everyone for helping me out.

James:thumbsup:

Don't know if such a table has already been released, BTW here is mine ;)

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/7761/22ratiosxls.jpg

what figure do we need to be aiming for and how do you work it out,
thanks

The figure you desire is usually a ball park ratio that can be tweaked from track to track. the best place to start with is often found on your motors instruction sheet or the motor manufacturers web site. There is usually a recommended ratio chart referencing winds and class raced.
:thumbsup:

hth

Quick question.I have got the 4.5 hrc block. What recommendation for the shim and squat settings as a base??

Where are you driving it, what surface?

I made my own tapered pistons based on kit pistons:

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/3953/img6502u.jpg
On high grip grass track, my 22 mid motor seem much consistent with:
- 6x#56 holes piston / 35WT / pink spring on rear
- 6x#57 holes piston / 35WT / green spring on front

Thiner oil (30WT or 32.5WT) could be even better ;)

I confirm, I tested this afternoon the setup with:
- 6x#56 holes piston / 30WT / yellow spring on rear
- 6x#57 holes piston / 35WT / green spring on front
is even better and combine with long rear camber links the rear end is really predictible out the corners.

22 setup advice needed for clay
 

Hallo all,

I run the 22 on a clay track with medium grip levels
After running about 20 packs I ended up with the setup
below (rear motor), I have 100 grams of weight under
my lipo.

Rear:
Oil 25 wt
piston 57 2 extra holes drilled
3 mm limiters
camberlink short
2mm spacer under ballstud on the hub
no spacer under ballstud on de tower
damper in the middle hole on the tower.
damper in the middle hole on the arm
4 degrees LRC toe in blok
0 degrees antisquat
rideheight arms level
1 degree negative camber
rear hub forward


Front:
oil 20 wt
piston 54
3 mm limiters in the damper
camberlink long
2mm spacer under ballstud on the spindle
1mm spacer under ballstud on the tower
damper in the middle hole on the tower.
damper in the outer hole on the arm
Rideheight level
thin kick up shim
1 degree toe in
2 degrees negative camber
10 degree caster blok

The car was able to do some fast laps with this
setup but it constantly feels on edge.
I can't throw the car around, it has grip but looses
it without warning.
Forward traction is allright as long as the car is
perfectly level, I can't get on the gas mid corner.
It steps out violently.
it jumps allright and the steering is ok.
I just don't have traction in the turns and coming
out of the turns. If I drive point and shoot style
and if I have the patience to wait untill the car is
level it is quick but like I said, allmost impossible
to drive faultlessly for 6 minutes. I drove someones
Tamiya 201 for a direct comparison and I was shocked
how much easier this car was to drive.

Does anyone have any suggestions?


Hans

You considered running it mid motor option ? get a comparison..

Here is what i ran today at Oswestry defently considering tapered pistons. Car was very good but defently felt it could be better.

http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/6582/002tvn.jpg

Ash

mid motor on clay
 

Hello all,

Someone gave the suggestion of running the 22 in mid
motor config on clay (medium grip), has anyone tried this?
I built it rear because I figured that was the best configuration
voor those conditions.
I'm having rear grip issues currently, sounds to me like those issues
will become bigger in mid motor configuration.
But I guess it's worth a try.

Hans

My updated setup for Taplow as I ran the car on Friday night.

Front:
Stock pistons/27.5W/Blue spring
Shock mounting on tower middle and wishbone middle holes
Camber link 1-A, no spacers
Camber -1.5
Toe 0
Narrow Yellow Mini pins with 2 outside rows cut off, green stubby inserts (big one cut in half)

Rear
Short wheelbase
Stock pistons/27.5W/Orange spring
Shock mounting on tower middle and wishbone inner holes
Camber link 2-C, 2mm spacers by the tower and 3mm by the rear hub
Camber -2
Toe 3 HRC block
Anti squat 3 degrees
Yellow Mini pins, green stubby inserts

Mid motor configuration
Wing standard
50g weight on the rear
74gr weight under the short lipo
Novak Ballistic 6.5 with 19t pinion and stock spur
Ride height wishbones level
Servo: Spektrum 6070
Sanwa 2.4ghz rx

Notes: Car was well balanced and consistent. Good drive out of the corners and better on power steering. Want to try a 3.5HRC block next and the shocks still need rebuilding due to O ring stiction.

Has anyone found any good replacement low friction O rings to replace the standard ones???

I dont have much love for the standard kit ones as I'm finding it difficult to get the same feel left to right... even without the oil in them you can feel the restriction caused by the Kit O rings.

Jon!

Hans, my guess is that you will get even bigger problems with mid motor on clay..

try dustins setup from tlracing.com.. works great.

arnaud on petitrc is gonna post my EOS setup.. pretty similar to evans setup from low grip clay.

Hi Guys,

Here is Otto'setup @ Tomelilla

And here you have some more for the 22.

HTH
Arnaud

Interesting first night with my 22, electrical issues and no practise is a good start.

In the qualifies I had massive understeer, changing things to combat this but nothing seem to change, the front end of the car felt dead and had no rebound, so rebuilt the shocks, and turns out (as discussed else where) that the o-rings are pinching onto the shaft causing it to bind up, so unwound the o-ring cap a bit until the shocks were free, what a difference, over half a second a lap quicker, finished 3rd in the end, and ended up with laps competing with the top runners. Think this is a issue that needs resolving. Think the car will be super quick and pleased to be with the front runners only after 4 races (1 decent one :thumbsup:)

Will post setup later in week for the moto arena

Paul

Would using green slime on the o rings help matters

Funnily, not had an issue with my shocks (apart from really disliking 4 hole pistons).

Any updated setups from the team for outdoors? I would guess a lot more setup development has happened since the car has been released.

Cheers,
Ben

Question on you guys drilling holes in your ball cups. What is the easiest way to do this? I was thinking of taking a punch or body reamer to mark a spot on the inside of the ball cup, then drill the appropriate size hole.

Any other ways of doing it that would be easier or better?

You dont really need to mark it, just go straight through from the inside with a drill and clean up the outside with the body reamer.

Join the club.

My personnal brass weight system for mid motor (70g), splittable into two parts:

http://img863.imageshack.us/img863/9421/img0429h.jpg

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/4356/img0431z.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/4782/img0432b.jpg

http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/9623/img0423sz.jpg

and side brass weight (23g each) design to be inserted into plastic sidewalls:

http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/5613/imageyg.jpg

Looks good :thumbsup: I love the rear one that you can split in half!

They are fantastic, can we buy them from you?

What screw set is that your using ?

why do you guys drill a hole in your ball cups?

its so that you can unscrew the ball stud using a driver in through the hole, which avoids the need to keep taking the ball cup off... constantly taking the ball cup off can stretch the plastic slightly and cause your ball cups to become saggy and not very tight!

To adjust them while still on the car.

It's only a hand made prototype. No release planed :blush:

Screws are common socket head screw, tapered with lathe. I prefer using a 2.5mm hex driver than it's little 2mm brother :D

:thumbsup:

UK baseline setup

is it posted on the web somewhere?

It's on the first post of this thread :).

That along with others are on PetitRC:

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/Se...TwentyTwo.html

Has anyone noticed a lot of front camber change under load?

I'm currently running the setup out of the manual (camber link on #1 (inner hole) on tower with 2mm spacers and 0mm spacers on the caster block) with 1 degree negative camber, to gain a base platform to build from.

Is this something common to this setup?

I originally ran the car as kit with the spacers on the castor blocks and it did oversteer quite a bit (particularly mid-corner). Try using the 2mm spacers on the tower- this did make the car more balanced. Also use 3mm spacers on the rear outboard.