Okay I've sorted one problem out ! The rear shocks are much worse than the front but anyway ... The big problem is the nut (nilstop) system at the top of all shock towers .
If you tight them (lightly or hard doesn't alter the problem much) what hapens is that the top "kneecap?" doesn't pivot anymore in 3d it becomes a pivot and forces the shock body to be non parallel with the shock shaft .

And on the sx3's big bore that acts as a (too efficient) break ! I've changed the oil and released all the shock tower nuts by 1-2mm play (very sluggish) and now the chassis finaly feels free and has a working suspension :) .

Basicaly to me if you build the shock/tower assembly like the manual says you're going to have problems ! A quick test is easy :
Press you car on the floor and feel the suspension then released all the nuts by at leat 3-4 turns test again the suspension by pressing the car on the floor and feel the difference .

Ps: The rear natural offset is greater than the front which are pretty aligned even tight. The rear being stiffer than the front (proportionaly) that's the reason I think a lot of people say the front of the sx3 is very agressive .

This happens, take the shocks apart and clean the inside with a cottonbud or tooth brush to get all the flakes out

cat pics
 

hey chaps what do you think

Hey guys, how big of batteries can the sx3 fit?

EDIT: just found the answer on page 7

Hey lads,

I need help with sx3 setup. We have small and technical clay track, so on-power steering is essential.

How I can get on-power steering for cat?

Shorter links?
Washer under links?
What else?

- Harder rear spring
- More anti-squat
- Front shocks less inclined
- Cab forward body :D

What cab forward body fits the sx3?

Front cab bodies for B44.1 will fit with a small cutting, the B44.1 bodies are wider than SX3 bodies, so undertray fit not so well.

Hmm, well my body is out being painted I guess I could try and see how it goes but I dont want it to pop off ....Anyone else have good luck with this?

Tom Cock runs one, and ill be running one next week at the Euros. Not mounted it yet, but looking at it it needs to be quite far forward to wrap around the chasis. Im sure if Tom pops on here later he'll shed some light.

Si

Can't quite believe how good this car is. All I've added is a brass lipo tray and 7.5 yokes and the car is brilliant! Love it!

I'll 2nd that, except the cab forward body (Yuk !). :thumbdown:

I also get good results on technical clay tracks using front overdrive.

More specifics guys...what springs what degree anti squat and position for the front shocks...working on getting the 7.5 yolks ...also what oil combo are you all using in the shocks...going to be running on clay

Dude, if you use a 2.0 rear spring and need some more on-power steering, use a 2.5. If I use a 2.5 rear spring and need more on-power steering, I have to use a 3.0 rear spring. There is no general "on-power steering spring" ;)

Petit RC has some SX3 set-ups listed, so has the Schumacher website.
http://www.racing-cars.com/search.as...e1=prodvalue14
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...herCatSX3.html

As no-one here knows your track, we can't know what shock position, spring and anti-squat work best. So if you need more steering, use a harder rear spring than wat you're using now, or a bit more AS, or a less inclined front shock than what your car is set-up with now.

I like to keep my car as standard as possible, so except for the FAB and front alloy suspension blocks it is all standard. Imho you don't need the 7.5° blocks etc.

Post your set-up and then we can help, without your set-up all we can do is apply some general set-up tips.

On a tight and technical track (albeit astroturf), I found that the B-hole on the rear hub was great: offers more steering and controllable sliding in tight corners. A bit less rear toe-in might help as well. Don't overdo this, when using the plastic suspension blocks 0.5mm difference front and rear is enough (should be around 2.3°).

hows the durability and reliability on the cat sx3 compared to other buggy's? im thinking of getting one but dont want it to break everytime i mess up a jump or bump into something.

Have had my fair share of crashes and thus far I only managed to break 2 front shock shafts. The SX3 is a toughie.

Had probably my best day with the cat to date, fastest lap yet and highest final finish. Only thing I've pulled a thread clean out om the bottom rear alloy gearbox.:confused: Has anyone else done this. I've not crashed it hard and spent most of my race on the track. Unless I've done the damage another time. But the car was great apart from that.

Just thought I'd leave some happy positive feedback. Instead of moaning for a change.:thumbsup:

did the same thing today myself! :lol:

car has taken a hell of a hiding with me tho

there is room to put a longer screw then have a nut in the diff slot! does not mess with diff or belts so its a cheap fix on the day and to be honest my will stay like that till my driving gets better :lol: (years then)

got to say i love the sx3, i think if it was any other car it would be in so many bits it would of just gone in the bin :lol:

Must say first time out with the sx3 today at torch qual 4th finished????? Few blunders in the final but easy to drive had a drivable setup ,played with the car during the day but just could drive it
Awsome cant wait till next time now

I know I asked a bit vague but I heard the stock setup is great out the box. I want to keep it as stock as possible too but Ive heard from numerous sources that the 7.5's feel great which is why I was asking what other minor things people have done to alter the stock setting. Every driver Ive spoken too loves the car box stock...if there are a few tweaks to make it a tad better Im all ears. I will OBVIOUSLY have to test and tune but judging from all the great feedback the stock setup is great, Ive also swapped out the plastic suspension mounts in favor of the ally bits for more tuning options and durability...that being said what degree are the stock caster blocks?

0 degrees

10 degrees

if i remeber right
3 degree toe in and 2 anti squat

thanks guys...has anyone tried running the schuey big bores with cut bladders like the 22 shocks...i.e. emulsion style?

Me and Ian Southwell did halfway throught the day at Eden Park yesterday,
The main improvement was the car was more stable over the bumpy sections.
We used the same oil and pistions, just cut the centre out of the bladder.

What dose this mean exactly?

when I owned the 22 I felt the same exact thing. way more stable off and after jumps too. Once it lands its just feels more planted...less bounce and more consistent like the tamiya style shocks

Emulsion is a different shock setup where you dont utilize the bladder. You set up the shock with a little pocket of air inside and it sort of "blends" with the shock oil. You can tune rebound more accurately this way too. the adjustment of the shock to the terrain is more efficient..imo...because the air/oil mixure is constantly adjusting whereas with a bladder, you have to rely on the actual bladder to separate the oil and adjust to rebound, and sometimes as you run the car the consistency of the bladder will change whereas with the emulsion type shock setup, the dampening is more consistent for a longer period of time. For the 22 to convert the shocks to emulsion all you had to do was cut out the center piece of the bladder till it looks like an o-ring and then build from there. There are some tips on youtube that mike truhe shows on the shocks for the 22 if you need to see it happen to understand it.

Personally I hate building bladder shocks, I never had the best luck getting the rebound the same front to left. Maybe Im not the best at it but when I build emulsion type shocks they come out the same no matter what. And they feel better on the track

Just to drag up an old thread.

I switched to the Schumacher heavy duty bladders (I think they're from the mi4 shocks?) and they seem more consistent, easier to build.

cool. I think Im going to stick with emulsion set up for now. And test bladders at another time. Car feels more settled this way.