Yep...after 2 meetings on a tight indoor track I have broken nothing. The car has no obvious weakness and all plastic seems much better quality than AE B4 stuff I moved from...arms are very strong :thumbsup:

Ok cool looking at getting mine at the end of the month my old car is a losi 22 wich is very very strong car I have notices the piston holes in the front seem to be very big is this y most peaple are running 50/60 oil in front ?

I have heard that the AE BB pistons are a direct fit, but can't confirm that to 100%

Be good if they are, especially with the introduction on new ones.

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l..._Shock_Pistons!

Shame the moulding of the part is not better quality, tooling looks like it has been done on the cheap so much flash and dimensional tolerance error of 1mm between the front and rear chassis parts leaving a step where the parts meet......

bits of flashing are common on every make of car. Its no different from building a Tamiya kit where parts are still on the sprew. U just smooth them off with a blade.

not noticed any mismatches as you describe though. Got any pics?

Yeah the parts clean up nicely.....i found everything fit together nicely and certainly have no gaps on any chassis parts :confused:

Got two questions.
What would the rating on the blue springs be? (Or how to they compare to asso bb springs? Have quite a few of those)
The stock oil is #300. Is that CST? Or what WT does it compare to?

stock oil is 400 mate. At least that's what came with mine. Its cst. Its very roughly 32-35wt i think

sorry, the spring should fit, but i don't know much about ae rates.

I cant find ratings anywhere for the 2wd springs. I have been running kit springs so far and trying a set up with those. Any big bore spring should fit. I use Yok, Kyosho and Losi springs with no issues.

As for shock oil, i never use the kit stuff. Better to stick with what you know.

Dave

I could not find up to date Yok spring ratings (On petitrc is from 2007) so I am using AE big bore springs which fit fine and give me a good starting point of reference and lots of options. Using AE oil too :thumbsup:

I've got that chart too but it doesn't include the new 2wd springs. :(

Maybe this helps. To be honest, I think it is hard to believe that Yokomo sells identical springs with different markings.

Yeah I agree. They have them marked for different cars but to be honest, they all fit so there shouldn't be a problem.

From Sylvain...

New 2 Holes pistons for B-MAX2 & 4
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/293...2390102043.jpg

??? what tyres arfe these ?

d-boots mate
they are the control rubber for EOS

dBoots Blockpass in the front, Nanobyte in the rear,

any one run them in the uk ? carpit / astro

Has anyone tried the narrow front end yet? :eh?:

yes ive tried them. They work on carpet, not so good on slippy

not yet i haven't. I think its going to be more for small technical tracks or really low grip

Sounds perfect for my needs, I am suffering from turn issues. I see mb has the brace now in stock so maybe grab one and try it out. :)

try removing the spacers from the rear shocks to allow more weight transfer. Much better for me today. I also have 30g up front and the speedo behind the servo rather than the receiver

Good thinking on rear shocks, will try that next time out. I've got about 70gs up front at the moment with standard servo, with a thin strip of lead under lipos about 40gs towards front of car.

I need to put mini pins up front though, I started with cut staggers but they just aren't up to it. Moved to worn mp's and it was better.

I do find that the turning circle of the car doesn't seem great in low speed corners, how are other people finding it?

60grams under lipo, 20 behind servo and 20 up front with cut staggers on astro and have had no problems with steering to be honest.....early days with car but steers at least as well as the Vega i had before...70 grams seems an awful lot of weight up front?

ive only run mine on carpet so far ..ended up playing with shock oil 450 cst in the rear /no internal spacers
400cst in the front /no internal spacers
minipins on the rear/ cut staggers on the front
(no added weight)
car was great plenty of turn in bite /mid and exit plenty too

Pic of new car
 

Thought i`d put my new ride up here
paint job by AK Customz
Attachment 49617

Bmax-2 mr
 

Hi all, still finishing off my bmax-2 but will post pics when finished,must say what a kit to build it just fell together and everything super smooth and free.

Just a thought guys/girls the steering issues some, not all are having i have noticed on the steering blocks/spindles there is a little stopper that hits the castor block try removing that this will give approx 2mm more turn in each way left to right.;)

I just started building my MR! Has anybody found issues with the idler saft wobling?

Yeah make sure you have put all the bearings in

Not wobbling but there is a small amount of play back and forth which can be shimmed out.

Well let me be more precise...
Everything rotates freely but every now and then there is a clicking sound.
I removed everything and put every gear back on its own. Diff didn't click. Top shaft didn't click. The idler did click.

Did you check if there is any excess material on the idler gear? Still waiting for my MR conversion, but did not experience any issues with my "old" B-Max2.

If there is a clicking there is a chance it could be a dodgy bearing.

Thanx guys, it was a tiny piece of debris in the bearing.

Another question now. The kit oil is #400. Does this mean 400cst? I used Associated 32.5wt which is 388cst and it is way too heavy in the bench.

Yes, should be 400 cst. Give the box set-up a try, IIRC I didn't have to change many thing for a properly handling car in Duisburg. :)

What surface is that?