Thanks :)

Sorry Mikey. Been moving house over the weekend so a bit busy lol. Still managed to spray the wing with cans and sticker it up. The rest of the shell will be done by someone with more skill haha

here's my servo flipped. I don't seem to have any problem with the arm locking out or going past the safe point... I even tried forcing it to do this and it's not sticking :confused:

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...C/IMG_0434.jpg

I'm not truly confident on the strength of the steering rack either. It's ideal to get made up in carbon or alloy though. Rear tower also looks easy enough to get made up in carbon fibre too. Front would have to swap to the horizontal ball links like the 410 if you had a CF front tower, but it would give you a much quicker adjustment on the ball stud height :)

I've found the problem with my first diff. The moulded plastic around the nut should have a hole to let the screw through.
When i tightened the screw until it got tight i thought i had compressed the spring, but the hole was way to small. That's why i thought it was all tightened down, but it wasn't.
Forced the screw through, and problem's gone :)

Iv'e read some posts about failing diffs, you all should check if you really have totally compressed the spring, this part can fool you.

For the people that notice the servo arm going beyond the 'safe' point and 'locking' over...

this is only a problem on the bench when you are turning the wheels to drive the servo. when the car is in use, the opposite happens, the servo arm is the thing that is directly controlled. the servo arm doesn't get forced past the safe point because the arm is directly controlled, even if you do have your EPA's set way off, it will still pull back no problem.

and even so, this is only a problem on the bench with some types of servo that have lots of momentum on the gears.

How do you know it's only a problem on the bench?

What if the front wheels get a hard knock pushing them past the safe zone into a locked position? Also, when the links go past neutral the servo has no control over the flapping about of the wheels.

Tony, I'm talking about the way the servo arm and steering rack interact here.

I'm not talking about the way the steering rack controls the steering knucles

OK thanks Chris. I think it is the latter where the problem lies.

got mine together, apart from the diff, everything went ok. To be honest though im very worried how its going to run first time out!!
has anyone ran stock piston? what oils did you use? ive put losi oil in 37.5 ft and 30w rear and it feels very stiff

Yes, I can see what you mean.

none of the cars that I have built have a problem with the front knuckles locking over, I'm keen to know more details about exactly how people have built their front caster blocks and spacers of the people that are seeing this issue.

Thanks
Chris

there is a miss-print in the manual for the front and rear pistons, it is corrected in the online version at the TD website.

using box stock components, start with 1.2mm pistons front and 1.3mm pistons rear. 450cst shock oil in the front and 400cst shock oil in the rear.

you can go up and down on shock oils.

this may not be a 'perfect' setup buts its pretty good using complete kit items before going into drilling pistons and advanced setup stuff.

fully dialled setups can be found on the TD website

Just to back up CD here, Richard Coates ran with the kit pistons as suggested above, AE35wt front, AE 30wt rear at York on Saturday night and the car was fine. We were all playing with set up but the pistons/oil were not touched on any of the three 210's we had running.

G

I did a comparison between mine and Simon Larkin's and we had exactly the same set up, middle Ackerman, longest wheel base, fully trailing etc. The difference in the potential for locking between the two was quite marked and all we could see was that my Savox was just that bit forward of his servo. Once I'd put on an Alu horn and bent it backwards a little it seemed to help relieve the problem, but still not as good as Simon's.

I went with 45wt front 35wt rear (Fastrax CML oil) and the front feels really nice, but the rear does seem a little over damped...

I'll play with it on the night :)

See this is the thing that puzzles me and I am trying to understand.

the servo, servo arm, servo link length etc shouldn't have ANY effect on the 'locking' of the steering knuckles.

the only thing that should affect this is the steering rack and the steering knuckles.

the problem should be evident without any servo fitted, so it puzzles me that changing the servo arm has an effect on this...

Thanks mate,so basically rear and front are other way round in the manual?

I find it puzzling as well and yet it was the only thing we could see that was different between the two cars.

I'm sure CD is looking into it ;)

if you're running more toe out the steering rack will be 'allowed' to move further before the knuckle hits the C bracket restricting any further steering...

as chris said this can't happen from the servo moving only in the result of a crash would it be forced beyond the limit

Hi Chris, mine and Tony's car where the same front set up at the time of looking at the locking problem/puzzle, the difference was the height of the servo, this pushed the cranked horn forward, this then made the angle of the small link that goes from the servo horn the the ackerman plate not straight enough to operate correctly.

Wheel offset in the front? looking to use some old rims? any idea if the front rims are rims?