Im not fussed carl as long as it does not break away :lol:

Standing the rear shocks up one hole would do it G or going to a red rear spring:thumbsup:

Is that before or after you've had a go??? :wtf:

We shared a room, that was it, i promise :lol::lol:

I'm already stood up one hole on the rear shocks, also middle on the wishbone - i just find that gives it more side bite and a more predictable slide when it does go.

Front end, that I can remember:

Std Oz shocks, std Oz positions
25 degree blocks
Steering arm trailing - spaced middle in castor block
Link: Outer block - Outer tower
1 washer under inner stud

It was ok at Batley, but I was getting raped in the 180 turns along the back section - and there was a lot of them :cry: I really had to chuck it in, almost a scandy flick was required! :lol:

raise the gearbox a touch, i think that will make it rotate a bit more?

what wheelbase?

what do you find the difference is by moving the castor block forward?

Er....gearbox is already raised a bit, maybe 0.75mm I think.

Wheelbase, short - short.

Castor block? :bored:

G

with the castor block thing, my theory is, your taking the weight off the front end by moving the blocks forwards, less steering and turn in, i may have it totally wrong but thats the way the brain is thinking right now.

Long will give you some more steering too . I think im going to give inlines a go though this weekend in one of the practices. That should liven things up a bit :lol:

I'm poor and don't have any inlines :(

G

could go hard core like i did and stick b3 bits on the front

cut the front blocks down , drill out the holes for the king pin and fit a b3 kingpin ball stud with b4 inline axels


you would need to find the b3 bits mind and it took me ages to get some

ran this at cml one winter snaped the chassis and the car was never run again so never got to test it big time but it felt ok

i allways thought the standing the shocks up gave more grip less stability?

More turn in? 30º caster blocks. Why are you using 25º? Are there many sweepers?

Sounds painfull,:lol:

@ Sparrow: Yep Arendonk this weekend, I will be there.

@ Lee: moving the castor block forward (with inline) and running short wheelbase rear, is having a relative long wheelbase with little weight up front so it can still change direction swiftly. Makes the car feel more alive, and it also helps drive comming out of the corners.

@ Kikefu: 25 deg has more steering in the middle and end of the corner, only time I use 30 is if I have trouble getting on the throttle at the end of a corner. Most of the time the higher corner speed you can get by using 25 outweighs the faster reaction you can get from using 30's (even though most of the time the 30's will FEEL faster).

Doesn't the steering mess up on the bottom of the arm then?

Just applied for my Belgian federation license :thumbsup: See you at the weekend.

Dont use a nut at the bottom of the steering block, and use a bit of droop limiting to stop it hitting the arm when steering.

are you running the front shocks lower mount in outer hole have you tried the inner hole as on b4

I'm a bit confused about these trailing axles and inline axles.

I"ve seen several setup's from Ellis and he never uses inline axles and seems like he's driving the X6 pretty well :eh?:

So what is the story here??

right whats the difference now guys going to the squared for shock positions and is the oz set up still about right to start from thanks g

the x6 and x6squared have the same geometry so i would imagine so

Na, not really. See original X-6 shocktower in the rear and and the X-6 Squared one in front.

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