i have glued the metal rings
anyway i just rebuild the diffs what happens if i tighten it hard?

you should tighten it until it is too hard to turn (dont force it) then back it off a bit until you can turn it over nicely

got a few little tipsters for you guys modding the Durga/Baldre..... the 3Racing shock towers works with the kits shocks, but not with the 501X shocks.... the 501X shocks are longer and generate a lot more droop, this cuases some odd handling, a lot of power on understeer for starter.... so if you plan on the 501X shocks, might be worth looking at having towers made.... that raises the mouting holes for the shock tops 5mm up.

the 3Racing suspension holders are really good though, and anything more than a 19t/10.5 then invest in the uprated rear diff halves at least.

the 3Racing suspension holders are really good though, and anything more than a 19t/10.5 then invest in the uprated rear diff halves at least.[/quote]

I was wondering where the best place to get the uprated diff halves would be? Thanks.

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=12005

Theres some diff halves - I've seen them cheaper than that though. Not sure if it's something Tamiya UK even import so I can't link to any UK suppliers sorry. The full-metal diff is only really important at the rear where the most power gets put down.

if Hobby Co have them in stock, then you can order, if not, it is 8 weeks at least.

Thanks guys. I will have to give them both a try. I am also gonna need a couple pulleys for my rear diff. Stella has some, but they are for the front one way it says. It's a 37T pulley so i dont see what the difference would be. Maybe you guy's would know better:yawn:

I'm having problems with the rear diff coming lose? I have 501 diff outdrives, ceramic balls but still the rear diff is coming lose. I have even replaced the diff screw & nut but still the same problem. Any ideas?

one way pulley has a huge hole in the middle for the one way - so it won't work for a diff. You need diff pulleys.

If you're 100% sure that there's no binding, bent screw or bent outdrive then you can try the following:

Get your 37t pulley in your hand - see the little 'nobs' that stick out in between each hole? get a sharp scalpel (a bendy one works best) and carefully cut each of these off. Hupo won the Euros so I beleive what he says - and the friction of these on the plates can undo the diff sometimes. Don't worry I thought he was on something as well - but I've done it ever since and I've never had a diff come loose since.
The 'nobs' stop the pulley wobbling about - but it doesn't really matter if it wobbles about.

Usually it's the thrust race though - when you build it make sure you put the face with the lowest brass insert toward the outside (the head of the screw). This is so the screw sits on the plate of the thrust race rather than the insert. Also make sure you grease the race with black grease or antiwear grease.

Great tip, thanks! Just took diff to pieces and I had the thrust race in opposite to your suggestion, so have turned it around. I will be very interested to see if it fixes the problem! :thumbsup:

yeah, there is a specific way to install the thrust race, the brass insert has a square and a rounded side, the rounded side goes to the head of the diff screw, if you put it the other way around, it can gouge the screw and shear the head off when you tighten the diff...

Good tip that, about the diff Jim.... going to try that!

By rounded, do you mean the side with the slight indent? I hope so, because this is the side I have now rebuilt with the diff screw touching! :lol:

that be the one!

I got mine here: http://www.brockmodels.com/advanced_...31289c566e9a66

I got some of the carbon parts this week for my new durga, the top decks/covers and the shock towers. the towers look to have a lot more carbon in them but it might be the way they are moulded? they are just a lot more 'grey' in appearance.

The car definitely feels stiffer with all the parts on - I think that'll be a good thing for high traction tracks and to make the car a bit more consistent, but I did very well with the standard plastics so I'm not sure how these will go yet, we'll see.
I also got the TA05 carbon cell strap since the kit strap is like rubber! this should also stiffen the car a little.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/carbondurga01.jpg

Looking really cool jimmy i agree the shock towers look a lighter colour when comparing them to your original photo's from the review.

A

Where's the blue screwset from on that one Jimmy? I've got the Tonys Screwz one on mine, just wondered how that compared?


Thanks
Chris

its from RC Champ, I actually bought it when I bought the car to review - but I didn't use it at the time. I used it now because I have it. Would I reccomend it? it's nice to look at but that's about it. I am considering getting a tonys screw kit for it to be honest. The kit is part titanium and mostly Alloy - the Ti screws are fine of course, but the alloy screws aren't generally a great idea since they can break or strip easily. Still, I had it so I've used it :thumbsup:

Stick with your Tonys!

:o jimmy. Aluminium screws on a shock tower. TUT TUT :thumbdown: :lol: