well, if you find any, let me know, I need one or two.... the one that I had for my daughters car was pre-painted in the box art colour.... and she wants pink and flowers.... oh the joys!!

And it be nice to get the Baldre shell too

Thanks for this. :thumbsup:

No worries. I'm putting a DB-01 together myself for an indoor race on Sunday. Really rushing it this time. :woot:

sim you've bought yourself a durga already:woot:

Sent an order query to RCChamp last week on this, and asked about a Baldre bodyset too. Got a reply back 48 hours later to say they didn't have any as they were a slow selling item and I should try again in 2 weeks, as they may have some in a future shipment. Either that or I have to buy another kit again (seeing as I sold my last one to someone at the Club - I couldn't refuse, I'd like to race against another Durga).

Thanks for that Jimmy. No, my bad, only the rear one had melted. It was so bad that I couldn't get the balls out!! So i found a mail order shop on the net called demonpowerproducts.co.uk and they had some pulley's in stock. I phoned them and they said it was cool to go and pick it up (only about 20 mins away in Aldershot) which was really nice of them for a mail order company. Whilst I was there I picked up 24 tungston diff balls aswell, can't resist a bit of hopping up;).

So, put it all back together with more super glue and have just put my 3s lipo through it, came indoors a few minutes ago and stripped it down just to check the rear diff and the plates came off again with not too much trouble!

So, how come the TRF diffs don't need glueing? And by 'roughing up' do you meen a bit of sandpaper or something?

And a heads up for anybody contemplating Ansmann shocks, save your money!! Bought some from my local shop for a try as they were cheap, just a stop gap whilst I wait for my TRF ones from Stella. One bad corner, car flipped and the shock snapped in two:thumbdown:. Crazy I know but stock shocks are better imo.

Thanks for that Jimmy. No, my bad, only the rear one had melted. It was so bad that I couldn't get the balls out!! So i found a mail order shop on the net called demonpowerproducts.co.uk and they had some pulley's in stock. I phoned them and they said it was cool to go and pick it up (only about 20 mins away in Aldershot) which was really nice of them for a mail order company. Whilst I was there I picked up 24 tungston diff balls aswell, can't resist a bit of hopping up;).

So, put it all back together with more super glue and have just put my 3s lipo through it, came indoors a few minutes ago and stripped it down just to check the rear diff and the plates came off again with not too much trouble!

So, how come the TRF diffs don't need glueing? And by 'roughing up' do you meen a bit of sandpaper or something?

And a heads up for anybody contemplating Ansmann shocks, save your money!! Bought some from my local shop for a try as they were cheap, just a stop gap whilst I wait for my TRF ones from Stella. One bad corner, car flipped and the shock snapped in two:thumbdown:. Crazy I know but stock shocks are better imo.

the metal outdrives and metal plates grip better and slip less, the plastic ones need to be glued, use a very thin super glue but degrease first!!!

3S lipo you might just wanna invest in the steel outdrives though

haha yeah, 3s lipo is a big slice of mad cake!! :lol:

Hi guys,

Great forum btw. Learning heaps from reading through the pages.

Been out of RC for years - think Marui Hunter and Tamiya Striker as my last cars !!!! Have emailed RC Champ for a price on a couple of Durgas which I'm contemplating buying for my nephews and nieces to play with or race.

Couple of noob questions if you will indulge me please :

1. What are CVD's and does anyone have a pic to clue me in ? I assume they replace the standard drives ? Part number helpful too please.

2. Have asked them to include slipper clutch, would the TRF diff be essential as well (no glueing ?)

Not going to go brushless - having enough trouble getting my head aroud electronic speed controls :D so any other parts you would consider essential for strenthening the car I would appreciate it. Ham fisted kids and ham-fisted self should see some unintentional punishment dealt to these cars.

Why did it double my reply? Why did it double my reply?

Yeah, love the 3s Lipo coupled with my Mamba Max 5700 BL. Crazy fun, although a lot nicer to drive in the Durga compared to my old DF-02 Gravel Hound.

I'm going to get some 'Rubber Cement' in a minute, cheap fix compared to new TRF diffs (spent enough ££ this month on hop ups!)

Rubber cement is the stuff that comes with Airfix model kits, takes a while to dry but has slightly more elasticity to it, Super Glue gets hot, goes brittle and just brakes away, as i've found out twice now. Just glad I checked after one run, otherwise I would have had another melted diff!!!

I searched for rubber cement online and couldn't find any, what else is it known as?

Cheers!

I use a decent THIN tyre glue

I was told that it was the same as the glue that you get in a bike puncture repair kit. However, I think if it is you should ignore the manual this one time and go for a conventional thin (as DCM says) superglue ie, the sort you'd use on tyres. That is what I used after my "rubber cement" came undone after one meeting, leaving the diff plates spinning no matter how tight the diff was set. Since then the diff plates have remained firmly in place but the downside is that I now need the new plastic outers to mount my new plates on as I cannot get the buggers off the old ones :thumbdown:.

I used awesome think tyre glue - and it broke off. :thumbdown:

More commonly known as Evo-Stik, or any other contact adhesive. One big advantage is when the diff washers wear out you can slide a knife between the washer and mount and get them apart.

CVDs is the name MIP gave to their rebuildable universal joint driveshafts. CVDs are MIPs trademark so every other company calls them CVAs or in Tamiyas case just universals.
http://www.fusionhobbies.com/Product...A54015&click=2

Everyone calls them CVDs just like we all call the vacuum cleaner a hoover.

Rubber cement is AKA 'Polystyrene Cement' found with all small scale model airplanes, boats, tanks etc etc. Can't think why that would be good for sticking metal to plastic? I'm going to try 4 small blobs of tyre glue and 4 small blobs of rubber cement on each plate, run a pack through it again and i'll post the results.

Might just have to get the TFR diffs, would save a lot of grief:confused:

Rubber cement is NOT polystyrene cement. Polystyrene cement is designed purely to melt polystyrene kits together. It does not stick to anything else at all, not even most plastics.
With rubber cement such as Evo-Stik you coat both surfaces with it, let it dry and they stick together on contact. It's a very reliable way of attaching metal to plastic.

Cyano/super glue/tyre glue (all the same) will also glue the washers in place but it's a lot more difficult to get the washers off the mounts.

No, it isn't.

Rubber cement is the type of adhesive used for puncture repairs, polystyrene cement is actually a solvent that dissolves the plastic commonly used for model kits so parts can be joined together.
Rubber cement will stick to metal, plastic cement won't.

Cyano (tyre glue) will stick the plastic outdrive to the metal diff ring but won't adhere well to the plastic. Rubber cement (from any good cycle shop or Hellfrauds) will do a better job.