Ran my 210 today, very happy with it straight outta the box.
One issue, with no servo saver, everytime i touched a bit of track at speed/ or landed awkwardly on the front end, the steering link just popped off, was really quite anoying....
Anyone got a solution?

Yes, popped off three of mine at Formby today - two front and one rear. I'm considering fitting the the Lunsford TiNi shafts, AE TiNi balls and RPM ballcups, which I've had on my 410 for over a year without a single pop.

I have to say though, when it works, the car felt ultra safe - (my second Losi 22 will be for sale soon).

Dont think ball cups are going to do much, they feel quite tight, just that theres no servo movement so as soon as you hit something side on, the cup pops off.
Guess its better than a servo gear breaking. But its quite annoying!

does it have a lot of play in gearbox? build mine in rm4 gear, and the feeling is that the top shaft metal gear is not close enough to the first idler? or is it that 4 gear will be so?

Well fairly happy with mine today in the finals at TORCH for the first round of the winter series.

Struggled with on power traction on wet astro. As I also run the club, lacked a bit of time.

What i would have prob done is change to anti squat to start etc. Dropped a spring rate which helped an so forth.

I changed from ballistic grens to pinks and it was much better, but need to get it honed in the wet on ballistic greens.

I see what you mean. However, I still think the TD cups are easier to pop off. I can do it with moderate finger pressure, whereas with the rpm/lunsford/AE setup I definitely need pliers.

when new boil them pop them on hot when plastic is soft then they are no being streched on. This really helps all cups.

Nice tip I may just try that.

Anyway love the dex, losi is up for sale soon. I find it calmer than the 22 in my hands anyway, so now just need to fins a bit more off power steering out of corners and Ill be laughing.

Anyone find that the shock collars are very loose? I presume there will be a alu upgrade of is the way to go tresey? I do like them as they are easy to change but seem to move by them selves.

Tips?

Had noticed the same on my V3 i also felt that they moved themselves. There are Alumonium upgrades from TD which i will probably buy, there is also a rubber ring which you have to buy seperately i think. A bit strange but i think it´s the only solution to that. Or anyone has a cheaper solution? :confused:

where does that go?

Not pretty, but I don't care about that, I just want to win. Run a bit of ptfe tape around the shock body this will stop the auto adjust!!

I've used rubber o-rings, snugged to the top of the collar, works fairly well.
In the past I've also coated the threads on shock bodies with some threadlock, allowed it to dry over night (sometimes required a couple of coats), and it seemed to work pretty well. :)

Car was faultless at TORCH. Diff stayed clean too as it was wet. First time out :)

yes thats what i done but then you only have 2 screws which are firmly securing the gearbox to the chassis. the 2 at the rear need this modification to do their proper job

210
 

Ran mine for the first time 10 mins after finishing the build ,set up as the book except for using small bore 410 shocks and it ran and handled perfectly on indoor damp astro. No build issues and couldn`t be happier with it :thumbsup:
A few photos to follow when i get a chance.

I blew a bearing whats the replacement number?
Manual says 601022 is 5x8x2.5 TD site says 601022 is 5x8x3

Its the bearing that holds the layshaft in place in the diff housing.

Whats correct?

Where is a good place to get upgraded ball bearings for 210 as well? Would the thrust balls need replacing/upgrading?

601020 is the part number for 5x8x2.5, both options are listed in the manual in the parts section, not sure why though :confused:
I have just priced up a ceramic bearing kit from here, comes out around £55 + p&p
http://www.avidrc.com/

sorry ment diff balls not ceramic just hardened. My diff works well just would be nice to have a spare set

I have buds balls in mine, available from Telstar racing
Am also using nuclear diff grease available from oople member belsten on here
Silky smooth :D

Second batch DEX210
 

When will the second batch be in stock off the DEX210 ? :)
Any news from that ?

What is the kit/stock springs? Blue I know just dark or light front and rear.

TD330137 front , dk blue

TD33151 rear, light blue

First raceday yest with the 210. No issues with kit diff or ball cups. :thumbsup:
Did break a rear tower, but I think I would have broke one anyway with a diff buggy the way it landed.

So got the new motor today... nice and shiny yah.
LRP x12 8.5 with the standard spur 87T what pinion should I run for a tight carpet track?

Manual said in a 2wd the ratio should be 8.5.1
Whats this and how do I work it out?
I have seen this explained before but cant remember where I saw it.

A 26t pinion will give you 8.7 FDR and I believe that is the largest pinion you can fit with the 87t spur.

I have attached a screen-shot of a spreadsheet I'm using and the spreadsheet (zip'ed). Please use as you like.

PS! looking forward to try out the slick tires I ordered from you yesterday :)

Final Drive Ratio = Spur/Pinion * Internal Drive Ratio
E.g 87/26*2.6 = 8.7 FDR. Not far off your 8.5.

I've run an 8.5 on a 26 pinion and found it about right on a tight carpet track. However, yesterday I ran a 9.5 with 27 pinion and this was as smooth as silk. To get the pinion to fit I had to lengthen the motor plate slots a few mm. Now the motor is just touching the chassis, so a 27T is about the max you'll get into a 210, with standard Spur.

thanks, thats larger than what I have been using.. might be why I get quite high temps, the motor is spinning too fast.

ronsand I have shipped your slicks BTW

where do you get the 2.6 from in that equation? spur divided by 10?

2.6 is the internal ratio of the 210.

I ran a 10.5 motor over the weekend geared with a 23 pinion ! BUT it was outdoors and I had my speedo set up for it. Gearing will always depend on your driving style/setup as well as the track :)

2.6 is the internal gear ratio for the DEX210 (layshaft gears + diff-gear)

Diffs
 

A question regarding the diffs. I've tried the usual method of fully tightening and then backing off 1/8th of a turn and I find my diffs still to be very tight. Another 1/3 turn seems about right, ie. backing off around a half-turn from fully tight. Do others experience this and is it possibly because of the larger diff balls (3mm compared to 2.5 on the Losi and AE machines) delivering a greater surface area and increased friction?

I ran mine for the first time yesterday with no issues what so ever. However i did notice you can overtighten the rear wheels which wouldnt do the diff any favours :lol:

That's what I noticed as well.
If you tighten the rear wheels to much, some binding will occur.
I guess this can be cured simply with a spacer between the inner and outer ball bearing in the hubs - as found on other cars...

A traditional crush spacer will not work due to the inner bearing size, but.....

Place a 5x6x.2mm shim on the axle before installing in the hub.

There is a step in the axle, the face of that step meets up with the inner edge of the outer hub bearing.

Placing a small shim on the axle before that step will take the side load off the outer hub bearing making it last much longer, with no bind.

.2mm was plenty on my car to crank the wheels down with no binding, but experiment to see what you need.

Dayton

great info!
thx

has anyone been running the 210 without the droop screws on the rear? fully tightened doesnt give much

Chris,
I run rm3 on a medium grip tack.
Ran the first weekend with out them, Started the day saturday with them in.
After 2 packs I took them off.

Dayton

I put them in the wrong way when I built the car (from the top instead of the bottom). But without the ends sticking out of the arms, so full droop. The car kept throwing it's ass up on the big jumps. And not a little bit. I just noticed I put them in wrong today, so I haven't ran the car since, but I think it was because of the droop screws.

Only ran the car on sunday, received it last wednesday. It handles great though. Had tons of grip and as much steering as you like.

Out of interest what antisquat are you running? It seems a lack of rear droop might well be related to running the 0 degree block...

im running the 3 degree blocks

Finally finished building my 210, looks a cracking car and looking forward to getting out on the track. One issue I discovered last night is the right rear wheel is unable to fully rotate when the suspension is at full compression and full extension. When fully compressed the wheel rotation is forcing the suspension back down and vice versa.

I'm guessing its something simple, but my tired eyes and brain couldn't spot anything obvious. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.