right got car all built up and elecs soldered up but..... i cant get full lock to the right because the ball cup on the servo arm side hits the top of the servo, using a low profile savox with the kit servo arm, what can i do to get full lock again as dont want to have to file down servo casing. cheers

hi i,m using the same servo
just cut off a little bit of ballcup
works great

got it sorted with schumacher ball and cullcups :-)

Weight, where and when ?
 

As title what weight are people using, TLR front and rear weight kits, rudebits weights how much are you running and under what conditions ?

What's this front weight kit like? not heard about that one till now.

I've only ran mine for one race on Sunday when the reciever in my Durango died, the car had no extra weight at all, in fact the car was a good chunk underweight, still drove really nicely, was keeping up with the 4wds in the race:thumbsup:

Only just got the rear weight kit, so will give that a go next time.

The 20 degree brass kick shim is 16 g heavier than stock composite part

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...048-25016g.jpg


The 25 degree brass kick shim is 8.8 g heavier than the stock composite part

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1049-2508g.jpg

I had the same issue. I bumped down to only .5mm of servo spacers and the issue was fixed for me.

were are these from:wub

Reg, they are on the TLR website under hopup's ;)

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ickAccessories

Hit ALL on hopup's ;)

as guys using using the savox 1251 ( spektrum 6040) will also find ball cup rubs on servo case at full lock, just sand the top of the ball cup on a flat surface until it clears, was about 1.5mm on my car.
Also dont fit servo horn central but one spline to right to correct offset on servo.

the brass kick up plates are nice,but does it realy need any weight in the front as it will turn up its arse if you want it to with out them:thumbsup:

Just another tuning aid REG don't forget mid or rear mounted motor.

can someone pass on the partnumber of the HRC-block?
I guess I must be missing something but could not find it yet, nor find it in a shop

allrighty :) thx
So there is no special plate or block, it's about the Toe and anti-squat-blocks.

But then, can't you obtain the same results with the LRC-parts with extra shims to shim it up?????

Thats what I was thinking , could be wrong though :blush:

for the HRC you need the toe plates & the antisquat shim set.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2045
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2979
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2980
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2981
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2982
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2983

the antisquat shim set is more critical for the mid car as the gearbox is designed to sit into the front toe plate.

ive just fitted the 4.0 HRC rear block, does this mean I need the antisquat shim set to make this change worthwhile? :confused:

Yes you need the HRC AS Kit parts number TLR2045

Changing the to HRC means your changing the rear block hight and you need to compensate to get the correct AS angle for this change.

Tony

Cheers Tony, I'll get one ordered. :thumbsup:

has anyone experimented with anti squat yet? curious as to how it affects set up on this car and if its a valuable change to whats already been said?

should it be before links or after in set up order?

Russ

hey gnarly old dog (or everyone else who can help me), would you give me a better discribtion of your setup on the rear. especially on the heading camber link, in which holes did you put the ballcup??? (in the kit setup it is 1/b)
and as i interpret your setup you have 3mm on the hub and none on the camber block?? sorry if this was asked before.

Anyone know which esc's that will fit on the brace in the mid motor configuration?

Till, what the team have been doing is running the camber link in 1 - B with 3mm on the hub (outer) and 2mm on the shock tower block (inner) in most conditions. If you need more rear end grip the just remove the 2mm inner spacer.

Tony

Can someone give me details for Nick so i can contact him re getting some tapered pistons please

Tried the 22 mid the first time today and what can I say. With the setup sorted out from this thread minus the HRC blocks the car was not very good on a grippy astro surface.

I started playing around with the setup a little and still couldn't get it feeling comfy.

A mate was there with his bog standard, out of the box rear-motor car so had a go with that and couldn't belive the difference! So much better straight off and so much easier to drive consistently fast with.

Mine is now rebuilt into rear-motor config and will stay that way for the foreseeable future.

Really happy with the car apart from a few small issues like wandering driveshaft pins (not the CVD end) and leaking shocks (yes I built them properly)

Hmm interesting, haven't been able to drive my 22 yet, but just by reading that it got me wondering if i should rebuild mine into a rear motor as well.

Anyone else got similar experiences as @sparrow above?

If I was going to buy one or two HRC blocks for racing on carpet track which toe-in would be recommended? Track is on the small size but has a lot of jumps and rhythm sections. Should I stick with 4 degree or go with more toe-in?

Thanks in advance

I ran my 22 at EPR yesterday and the car was awesome. I was running Andy Carters Set up in mid configuration with HRC block and had lots of rear traction. I think the HRC block really does help to keep the back end tied down, so if you do convert your car back to mid configuration I would recommend that you try the HRC block as I think it will make the world of difference.

@Bob_Zahn - I wouldn't go for any more than 4 deg toe-in myself. Depends how locked in you want it to feel? More toe does lock the rear end in but the sacrifice you pay is that it won't carry the same corner speed through the longer corners.

If you can balance the throttle and traction out of the tight corners then less is more IMO.

@sparrow.2 - sorry to hear that you couldn't get on with the car in mid configuration but glad you found the rear car to your liking. I guess that's the thing with the 22 - it really is the best of both worlds.

I've never run on carpet, but I had more than enough rear end traction with the 4degree HRC block yesterday at EPR. I think Andy ran 4degree HRC at the Off Road Wars meeting and Taplow. Might be worth having a look at the set ups he posted a few weeks back.

Drop him a pm on here James. Hes away racing today but will definitely reply to you tomorrow. I run the pistons too, the car just glides over the bumps :thumbsup:

I'd agree with Tony except I prefer 2-B (2 being the outer hole on the camber block and 1 being the inner)
I went from 2-C to 2-B yesterday and felt that the car was more consistent. On new tyres, the difference isn't massive but as the tyres wore, I felt the rear end was working to generate more grip during the turn with the link in the B position on the hub as opposed to the C position.
HTH

Me too:thumbsup:
Nick's Pistons are fantastic:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I will do, whats his user name?

His user name is Nick - he started the tapered pistons thread :)

:blush: Cheers Rich!!

The guys at Taplow on Friday were running 3 or 3.5 degree HRC blocks with around 3 degrees anti squat. I only had a 4.5 degree HRC block and it was way too much so I'll be getting 3 and 3.5.

Looking at getting the hrc blocks can you keep them on the car for wet conditions or do you need to switch back to the lrc blocks?

I noticed many people on here drilling holes in the ball cups to adjust the ball studs easier. Would this be ok to do on a car that runs on dirt outdoor tracks? Wondering if too much dirt would get into the ball cup.