http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...125_143106.jpg

Here's mine, first run tomoz. Got to be one of the best build of a car I've built.

Cars looking great guys.

Hoping to have mine out tomorrow if the weather does what it says. Hopefully we'll all be able to give a bit of feedback on our experiences.

Cars look great. Finished building mine tonight and really enjoyed the build (1st one in over 5 years). The car just fell together.
Will be doing the shell over the next week or so as not racing until 8th Feb.

I am using the following:
Hitec Atom 3 Receiver
Hitec 945 Servo
Lipo Saddle pack
Nosram Matrix Evolution Speedo
Nosram Storm 4-Star motor (5.5Turns)

Bit of a mix of old and new electrics, hope its still quick :o

I must say I absolutly love it already :wub


http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...pseca782fd.jpg

Just finished mine I managed to fit a sc 10 gear diff, with a little work ,very happy with car, like someone has said car fell together

could any of the team drivers tell us what weights they are running to get 50g at the front of the chassis

Had my first outing today with the MR. Was pretty good. Ran it it pretty much kit settings. Lacked a bit of steering but a few changes made it a bit better. Felt slightly lackadaisical but I'm pretty sure ill get there with it.

Happy.

Yeah first time out this weekend loved it just need some more on power steering, what are people trying?

remove spacers from front shock shafts and drop the steering block down by putting the spacer on top.

looking at the team sheets they seems to be running with none or just one shaft spacer.

i found dropping the steering block a bignimprovement. I have put it back to kit tonight though and am going to try removing shaft spacers.

you could also go a harder rear spring to stop it lifting the front so much.

ive gone back to kit but added 25g to front of chassis, and will remove shaft spacers tomorrow. Ill add more weight once i have some to also put under the saddles

Cheers I will try a few things. I've been messing with shock postions and camber link lengths seems to get a bit better each time. It's so easy to drive bit just a little too planted. Just feel like I need more caster but not sure if anyone is stocking different caster blocks? Might also try running narrow front rims. (racing on polished floor and carpet indoor) can people post some set ups on with track conditions to give some more idea's what people are trying

you could also go long wheelbase and remove the shim from front inner camber link

Cheers are u running saddles? Cause I was thinking about using q stubby length ways to take a bit of weight of the rear and then maybe run it in the forward position?

yeh running saddles.
the car is very light as is. I think if u take even more out its gonna be very lively.

if u have too much rear end try more anti squat and raise the inner rear link.

I found the car very light as standard and easily upset over bumps.....i will be running weight under lipo next time out

What rear wing are people running? also whats the difference of effect on the handleing between the two. Also how much do you cut out of the back of it?
Please help!:(

I'm running a JConcepts 6" wing. Not tried a Yok wing yet.

I need more on power turn in. Same as everyone else.

looking at the vids it would appear the testing has been done on tracks with low speed corners...

I think if you remove the front shock spacers ull notice a massive sifference. If thats not enough then drop the steering block by moving the shim.
If thats still not enough use more anti squat so you have more forward weight transfer.

I think the biggest improvement will be addition of weight

If you remove spacers from the front shocks...surely that will give more down travel allowing the front to lift more on power and giving less steering?

in theory yes, but the flip side is by allowing more droop you gives the front wheels more chance of staying in contact with the ground.

if you find the rear still drops too much then add more anti squat

hi guys

i have sent an email to hosoda at yokomo so see what he say to change

Hi all
first outing for mine at a local indoor carpet meet and the car was faultless.... the track was std carpet and wodden jumps
i used the base setup for link height and length....gear diff 3000 AE oil...
front shocks no3 piston 400cst oil losi red spring...
rear shocks no2 piston 450cst oil losi red spring... electrics as pic
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG3353.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG3352.jpg

Anyone tried it rear motor?
I am waiting on mine, but it will be "rear motor"-ed.

following on from the talk about steering.

I removed both spacers from front shocks, went long wheel base and also moved rear shocks to middle hole on the tower and i had bags of steering.

Sounds good......are u still using the kit springs?

yep.

500 core rc oil in front, 300 in rear

Car was better today on polished/carpet floor went longer on rear camber link with short wheel base and max spacer in anti squat, I was ok over q lap but not consistent. Need some more forward traction when slow (from nearly stopped) thought about lowering anti squat but it's so good over the bumps dint want to change it. Ant suggestions?

can anyone tell me what the overall castor/kickup is as i dont think it says in the manual
thanks in addvance lee

Ran the car at Southport indoor astro and also on carpet, the only change in set up on the carpet was Front Yellow mini pin, Front Losi green spring and Rear losi Pink spring. The weight in the front is a must! helps the car no end!

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ps7a2446db.jpg

cool. How have u got 25g in the bulkhead. I managed to get 25g around the front of servo under steering rack and some on top of servo but not managed to get any further forward than this.

I melted and shaped some lead to fit inside the bulk head, It would be nice if someone could make a brass front lower lower suspension mount and a 30g brass weight to fit inside the front bulkhead like I have done with lead.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...psc01c5b14.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ps2bbaf49c.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ps986f3174.jpg

aaaah cool a custom melt job.
Im sure someone will make some brass bits for it.

I am going model a bulk head up in cad and see how much weight I can add. just finished modelling up the chassis.

between 50 and 60g will be ideal i think

there is a product called liquid lead that can be heated in hot water and poured in

Just a quick question ...

If the Yoke lacks a little steering how come no-one seems to run with the lipos long ways Durango style ? would be the obvious way to get a bit more up front without adding to overall weight or is there a reason ?

I would say it's about balance, the car has very good rear end grip and you don't want to get more steering by taking it away from the rear. When I added the weight, the cars now feels very balanced front to rear.

When buying the MM car do you get all the bits for the rear motor as well or will that have to be purchased later?

All bits included in one box....mid or rear

Hi all looking at getting one of these wot sort of spares should I get ?

probably just some arms, rear hubs, front hubs, steering blocks and rear shock shafts. Its pretty bullet proof

My only concern is the more weight you add the more stress you add to BM-002 FRpart.
Gonna dig the scales out to see what the weight increase will be

Current weight of a BM-300FL 8g Brass Version with lead pocket removed 52g

44g Increase.