Pics?

Then you must have gotten a really bad kit :( Mine was a dream to build, apart from some small problems, but hey, it's the first batch!
It was some screws missing in the bags, but i found them all in the "extra bag". I had problem with the diff like some others here. The nut didn't go deep enough in the outdrive. But i had a second kit and build a second diff, that one turned out great :)
Experience from all this: Great quality as usual from Durango! Some missing screws can always happen, i don't cry about it :)

I have one on pre-order, it worries me when people say its fine but only one out of two diffs they built actually went together properly :confused:

Interesting that the kit shafts are 55mm and the optional replacement TiNi shafts are 52mm.

ADDITIONAL NOTE: I had a problem with one of my rear shocks today. The piston was actually sticking in the cap. Luckily I'd ordered a pair of the shorter TiNi shafts and after fitting these, problem solved.

[QUOTE=andys;567316]Glad it's not just me ! I've Tripple checked everything.

Comparing others today at the track it would seem that the 'flip' situation seems to only exist when using a deep servo like a Savox 1258. For others with shorter servo's the possibility of this becoming a problem was insignificant, or non-existent.
So, it would be useful if Durango could modify the block the servo fits on to, thereby allowing the servo to sit further back. The difference between a binding deeper servo and shorter ones was around 3mm.

Even with the minor problems I had today at Southport (inevitable with any new car), I am very happy with the balance of the 210. We went from wet to dry conditions and all I had to change were the tyres and the consistency followed through.

Oh! I also fitted two of Cream Extreme's battery braces which added 48g to the overall weight and they helped to settle the car down somewhat.

If I would like to run some old pin rims do I need to run the following parts?

#TD712003 - Wheel Distance Bushing
#TD714002 - Wheel Cone

Thanks in advance

What servos are people using as I have the option for:
Savox 1257
Savox 1258
Savox 1251
Orion Low profile

I wouldn't use the 1251 as I haven't seen them last on cars without servo savers. Currently I have fitted a 1257, but not set it up yet as no other electrics have been put into the car.

Intended on selling a few ESCs to get an Orion R10

Oh dear that's what's in mine :(

Just to clarify. I haven't seen them in this car yet, I'm refering to other cars (Cougar SV). I used my 1257 in the SV with no issues.

So it may be ok, but this car hasn't got a servo saver...

Using 1258's in both 2 and 4wd. Used an Orion low profile in the cougar, never had any problems

Orion is in my 511 at present and 1258 will be heading to the other 4WD. My 2nd 1257 is in my XXCR

What TonyM is referring to is the distance that the servo horn sits from the fixing face of the servo lugs is greater on his Savox servo.
His Servo locks out on full lock, but my no name Hong kong servo doesn't, the only difference at the time at looking was the Savox is 2mm taller lugs to spline than mine.

I have noted that Savox servos are "longer" for want of a better description in the past.

So would a simple fix be to just fit a different servo horn? The 210 one has a bit of a "crank" in it that makes the ball sit further forward.

Good idea, ive fitted a dynamite alloy one in mine. Just because i always use alloy servo horns, as i find plastic ones to be a weak point of any car!

They are only £3 too.

1st run issues...

See my post here re the diff failing - happened to 4 people on their first outing at our club day...

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...t=83173&page=2

I fitted an alloy servo horn and bent it back towards the servo. But you can only go back so far without fowling the servo. Yes it's an interim fix, but a real Durango fix would be good.

TonyM has got a good point regarding the servo mounts. AE include spacers to suit all servos on the B4.1 kit, it would be good if Durango followed suit.

I have just swapped my low profile savox (sorry forgot the model number) for a savox 1258 for more strength because of the lack of servo saver.

With it fitted, the steering link turnbuckle is totally straight/90 degrees onto the bell crank. If you move the wheels left and right smoothly there does not appear to be a problem, but do it quickly then I have found the link pops off the ball joint. Don't know about while in racing, but could be a big issue.

I have 2 cars, so 2 diffs. I built both, and I have the same issue, spring seems too long...

I have cut 1,5mm of the spring to solve the issue... I hop that it will not have too much consequences...

When will the gear diff be available ? I run a gear diff in the TLR22 for months, without any issue (whereas it is gear diff of SC10 RTR...)

Shock shaft are 55mm, optional shock shaft are 52mm and stock shock shaft from the small bores are 52mm...

Are the 55mm ok ? Or should I go with the 52mm ones ?

IMO marco go with the 52 mm shafts, that way you know that they will match the fronts, i.e the piston will not protrude, past the damper body. Like TonyM said, his stuck in the cap.