Well, here's mine at last...

Overall i'm Very happy with it, but... I backed it with Silver to enhance the Pearl, but i really wish i'd used White now. I used White on the Truggy i've got and the Green is soo much Lighter and Brighter, but i'm happy and i know for future.

All but the Black are Pearl Colours, so it really does Shine/Glisten Nice.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...i/003-Copy.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...i/009-Copy.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...i/008-Copy.jpg


There you go. Hope you like it.

The main thing i'm happy about is, the 4 Colours i used and the Crisp lines between them, especially the Roll Bars (they were quite hard to mask off Good)

So where is going to run them then on a regular basis.?

Hereford will be running them every other friday:thumbsup:

First thoughts even before opening the box: Cor blimey it's big. Second thought after opening the box: Eff me, it's hooooge!

This looks Nice. Roof air scoop:thumbsup:

Shell looks nice, the paint job looks wrong though, confirming my thoughts that custom spray jobs don't look right on these truck. :)

Full size truck photo's can be found hear: http://lucasoiloffroad.com/photo.htm

The unlimited 2 and 4wd trucks run V8 engines producing 800+ HP

I recon I could 'devolve' my scheme back into its Valvoline NASCAR roots and it would look pretty ace!

That would look WAY COOL!!:thumbsup:

agreed

im iether doing mine like the monster energy truck or like colin turkingtons rac bmw from last years btcc

Diff Oil
 

Any thoughts on which way to go here? The manual doesn't indicate anything other than black grease, but the setup sheet has a section for diff fluid. I've put some 50,000wt in that I've had lying about but it still feels a bit loose compared to a ball diff.

Also - and related to the current thread on the Associated section - can I swap out the steering bushings for the same bearings as on the B4? Maybe it's just mine but the stock setup has massive amounts of drag even with the screws set "loose". Before anybody asks, I have tightened the servo saver bolt down as far as I dare, I'm mindful that the plastic seems to be a lot softer than on a B4, so I'm scared of stripping threads.

ran mine on friday for the first time , THESE THINGS ROCK!!! i cant remember having as much fun with an r/c, car simply awesome.
running kit set up and kit tyres on carpet with jumps etc
love it !!!
you need to get one mr Doughty !!!!:thumbsup:

yeah i total agreed here extremly fun to play with..
my son begging me to get another one so we have a bashing each other :eh?:

but came up with problem yesterday as sc10's diff gear mesh making a clicky noise after 20 min playin with my son
so got home and stripped it out and add 2 skim ring each behind the sun gear in diff so finger cross it sorted
using 19turn motor with 87 spur 19 pinon and it super fast :thumbsup:

I ran mine at southport last sunday,it was way better than my slash it corners so well and jumps great,my only problem is that bloomin battery strap-cannot get my trakpower saddles in there and my 8.4v battery wont fit in either.

What size shims did you use? Mines sounding pretty rough and I've not run it yet!!:confused:

TEL: It seems as though people are simply doubling up on the shims , I'm going to build mine with 2 shims either side and we'll see how it goes;)

SPOOLIO: It is normal for a gear diff to feel a fair bit looser than a gear diff, I have yet to find any of the yanks setups but I would guess they use oil somewhere between 10 and 80k

The Yanks are using the Black grease and thats it... AE Forums will tell all... :D

[quote=Body Paint;240780]TEL: It seems as though people are simply doubling up on the shims , I'm going to build mine with 2 shims either side and we'll see how it goes;)

:confused: the sun gear is keyed to the drive pin on the outdrive yes? I understand that putting a shim onto the end of the outdrive will "lift" the gear a bit and mesh it tighter into the planet gears but surely it'll also reduce the amount the gear sits on the drive pin by a corresponding amount. Isn't that a bad thing? I expect I'm probably wrong as usual so where can I buy these shims? So far I have finished each build step with no shortages but also (this is where you know its not a Tamiya) absolutely no spare nuts, bolts or shims. Remarkable.

Looks like AE have admited the problem so I guess if you contact either the shop you bought it from, or, CML they may be able to suply the shims.

I copied and pasted this from the USA AE site:

OK GUYS AND GALS, here is what was found out from our R&D department.

The material that the diff gears was to be made up off was changed to beige type material we have in the kits and the material cools differently, and sometimes when the part (ie:gear) cools after being molded it could have an extra hundred thousand of more space inside where the large spider gear are placed.

So in some of the gears when you take off you hear a clicking sound or when you turn.


Not all of them will have this, but some do and the ones that do should get me your info.


We have the shims that it takes to correct this and just need you to fax or mail me your address with the notation of SC10 Shims on it and I will send you out the shims to correct the spacing problem.

The RTR's will have the shims included in the box and if needed they can be installed.