http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...k/DSC_0053.jpg

17mm with plastic shock bottom

(i could wind the shock collars down another 10 laps aswell)

Is the kf2 good out of the box or does it need extra hot up parts to make it competitive?? Recommended extras??

Thanks.

What parts do I need to mount the shocks on the rear of the wish bone?

Just these:
http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/New_Ca...KF2/U4616.html

Steve lad were you sniffing superglue fumes while writing this post :p

Nope I was told by a high level sponsored driver from York that in certain shock positions and spring rates the only way to get bellow 20mm without changing setup is to use the alloy bottoms. I've not built my car yet so can neither prove or disprove the info I was given, but I trust the guy who gave me the info more than I would most people on here

Built mine, just the electrics and paint to go. I was a bit suprised to find the whole front end inc steering is plastic, and not even a front wishbone brace. Maybe I'm too out of date with buggies as I haven't built one for a long time.

Very nice though and I'm looking forward to running it :thumbsup:

Ran mine at Mendip R/C Raceway today with an out the box set-up and it was rapid! All I did was the following

- Leaned the shocks in on the towers all round
- 90g added under the lipo
- Flipped the front arms left to right
- 20mm ride height all round
- 1 degree camber all round
- Slight amount of toe-in up front
- Fair amount of slipper which worked amazing on the new assembly.

I also tried increasing the anti-squat to 3 degrees and changed to long wheelbase but wasn't much of a fan of either of these!

All in all it was very quick and us KF2's took all the top 3 places at Mendip today :)

Which alloy servo horn (25t) would you guys recommend?

Core one ;)

Personally none,

I'd rather break a plastic horn than a £50+ servo.

The horn is the weakest point, if you put an alloy horn on the damage transfers to the next weakest point, normally the servo. IMHO

shorty
 

I have just finished building my KF2, and now its time to get the electronic in the car.
I have been using Saddle-pack in my KF but I really wanted to try out the shorty, then the KF2 came out, so my question is: Are the shorty still a good option to the KF2? Or do the KF2 drive way better with saddle sins it have a different geometry?

Q2: If Shorty which dimensions shall I look for ?

All the KF2's I've seen at our local club have been built with shortys. There seems to be a nice lot of room for the shorty so I imagine any short will go in no problem.

Most drivers in the UK are running shorty low grip setup as it works so very well in all conditions.

Dimensions (LxWxH): 95.5x46.5x24.9mm

Regards,
James.


I have been using Saddle-pack in my KF but I really wanted to try out the shorty, then the KF2 came out, so my question is: Are the shorty still a good option to the KF2? Or do the KF2 drive way better with saddle sins it have a different geometry?

Q2: If Shorty which dimensions shall I look for ?[/QUOTE]

I'm still struggling to get the ride height lower than 20mm, is there any way of lowering the car using the kit springs and shock bottoms?

Didn't want to buy more bling as I've already brought the alloy hub carriers and rear shock mount conversion kit.

Talk us through how your building them and what youre using

Regarding The belt tension, do you slide the adjuster just until it takes up the slack, or tighter?

Forgive me, I haven't built a car with a belt since my new Pro Cat :wub

My ride height goes way below 20mm! But I do have my shocks on the back which I suppose could make a difference...

Run the belt on the tight side

Just made some side pod weights to fit the kf and kf2
link here