I have had it about 4 months, Apex are a well respected brand in these parts and I have had a good run with their gear so I don't expect any problems.

Though if I had needed a charger to do more then just lipo I may have looked at something entirely different.

Afraid I have never heard of the hyperion EOS 5i, The RC scene in NZ is tiny so very little of the vast range of products ever make it here.

Shorty's Durga has a one way. He coped remarkably well with it the first time he drove it. I think you would struggle for steering without it.

Thats the odd thing Dom, last few times I have raced it, I have never struggles for steering at all.

When I had mine on a tight dirt track the lack of available steering made things difficult, I struggled to drive the car at any pace, I believe a one way would have enhanced the car remarkably under these circumstances.

but like I said, it is a tuning aide, just like tyres, springs, shock oil, camber positions etc, they are all tools to aide you in obtaining the handling you want in a car. A one-way for a novice can be quite daunting where as a diff is safer.

I prefer to set a car up without one if I can, I don't even like them in the saloon.... but I will run one if I need to.

No argument there, Its definitely something you can take out or put in to suit conditions/preference.

The option to install one in a car is positive, Rather then saying having to put one in to suit is a negative. And someone with more skill in regards to set-up could probably adjust the car to suit tight conditions without installing a one-way.

I'm a little biased towards one-ways though, I like them a lot.

Well what got me was it held its own well on the jumps, and even though you and Dave were aiming at me every time (Dave taking the mickey down to me not getting into the A) the distance you were doing without damage was a surprise to me. Obviously Tamiya has found the correct plastic mix and it can handle abuse.

I didnt like the ZX back in 89 with out a one way, but boy with a one way it went a heck of a lot faster indoors, and out, and you know how quick mine was as well as Tuckers. You need to get a one way and try it, as soon as you put it in you wont want to take it out. Its that much better.

And dont forget this car is a bit better than the ZX5, so the characteristics will be different.

I know what the one-way does and how it makes the car feel, I just didn't feel it needed it, and it definately didn't look like it needed it round that track either...

I would think overall that it is better to have the one way rather than not having it.

it looked ok, does your car have same size diffs or is it like the 501x where the front is one tooth smaller? If they are the same size then that kindof makes sense with what your saying.

they are same size diffs front and rear, 501Xworlds diffs

Do any of you guys that own the Durga have a problem with the front wheels rubbing when you have the wheels turned. For some reason my wheels rub against what i think is the hub when i spin the wheels and i have the wheel turned to either the left or right side. It seems that i may have to sand down some of the plastic on the inside of the wheels.

No problems with mine so far - done 4 meetings with only a couple of rounds as DNFs (thanks to the stock suspension pin mounts letting go).

As far as one ways are concerned I bought mine as everyone seemed to be buying these and the slipper as soon as they bought the car. Mine is still in the packet as I personally have never found the car lacking in steering (if anything its too pointy by 'arf). However, if you like a car to "rotate" into a corner a la B4, I can see a one way would be necessary.

Jimmy, are you going to go through with your hopped-up Durga test and report ? I'd be intrested how it would stack up against a TRF501XWE in the hands of an experienced racer ..... I would have a guess it would be down to a question of which has the best balance (battery+motor config) Of course the Durga wins a point on loose offroad with a sealed drivetrain.
anyone else slightly curious ?

Over the weekend, we had our first round of local qualifiers for the Tamiya Asia Cup and only Tamiya parts were allowed. I was driving a DF03 but many of my friends were running Durgas and some of them had problems with the rim hex getting rounded off. Are there any fixes for this? Thanks.

tighten the front wheels properly, mine done 10 runs on the front rims and no problems...

Yes, me. I think we really need to know the answer to this question to be able to resolve this whole thread which itself started as a question! C'mon Jimmy, put us out of our misery ;).

I was wondering as of late why people recommend using the universal shafts for the front rather than for the rear?

Ummm, honestly I don't know, I got them 'cos I am a bit of a sheep and do what the rest of the herd does without thinking. When the Durga came out everyone was posting that you must get a) slipper, b) one way, c) CVDs. So I did. Latterly it settled down to just the slipper and the front CVDs being a "must buy".

If I was to guess I'd say it is because they are more efficient than dog bones and to buy fronts as they work through a greater angle than the rears what with having to cope with the steering. Also, I think that the front end is more prone to the odd knock and dogbones can sometimes pop out which is not a massive problem indoors, but on an outside track it could be a nightmare trying to find it again.

Just my opinion so if anyone else can enlighten us please feel free.

the front CVD's is done for three reason, 1) the dogbones make the front end more agressive mid turn, 2) They wear quickly, 3) chance of loss in an accident.

The rear is the same reasons except they make the rear square up more under acceleration too.

The Slipper takes the load off the rear diff.

Front one-way is a tuning option, I may get one but not felt it needed it yet.