quick update, the car is dialled, though anyone who wants to tell me they told me so they can about the following issues

TA05 precision outdrives in the rear - Broke on first pull of the trigger
TA05 precision outdrives in the front - lasted 3 meetings, but one snapped in practise on sunday
TA05 aluminium outdrives - damaged in first race with it in the front, worked out that the actual outdrive cup is shorter than the db01 or 501 outdrives which led to the plastic saver thing being ripped off the cvd and then the cvd popping out of the outdrive.
so for the moment ive got 501x outdrives all round which was the original advise, so im sorry i didnt listen to the people, now my only hope is the 3 racing heavy duty 501x aluminium outdrives, which in the pics look like they have the correct depth to allow for the extra droop in the off road car

though i was right about the following thing

TA05 mainshaft - direct drive, works perfect, just had to shim it out a bit and am now running the lightweight layshaft
Go Tamiya!!

So your not using a slipper then?

correct, im running direct drive, in 17.5 its not been an issue in other cars ive driven

all fair and good if you have no jumps, far more important if you have.

oh the tracks i race on have jumps, but i expect and have noted that the transmission is up to the job in the 17.5 BL class with the direct drive, no skipping etc and belts look in good condition still, in the coming months this chassis will be my big events car, and a club car will be setup with slipper so its a bit easier on everything

the slipper isn't there to just control power, it is a handling aide too, it will make the car a little less jittery over jumps and bumps/

yeah, but it also adds weight to the drive train which i dont like, most stock racers i know lock the slipper up anyway, having won 3 state series in stock using direct drive in my cars, i think the handling doesnt suffer too much, anyway new topic.

I'm no engineer but it's still aluminium running against a steel driveshaft and in my mind I don't think that bodes well for longevity. Anyways, I'm back off to sleep now...

you're dead right, thats why they come with plastic protectors, that clip over the pins on the driveshafts, these spread the load better onto the outdrive and it means that its only plastic touching the aluminium, the plastc wears before the aluminium does and u just replace the protectors every now and then

I think he's refering to the 3-racing 501x outdrives being made of aluminum...

Yeah thanks, i know, if u read my post, i pointed out that the plastic protectors on the pins of the driveshaft protect the aluminium outdrive, meaning no contact between the steel driveshaft and the aluminium outdrive, only plastic on the aluminium, which was his concern, but thanks for disagreeing with me again :thumbsup:

But the 3 racing 501x outdrives don't use the plastic protectors...:eh?:

interesting that the would make them like that, as well as making the plastic protectors, well i guess i can try it and see how the wear is, or file them wide enough to fit the plastic protectors

I've got some of the 3racing outdrives, no plastic protectors, and no wear issues really, if anything the pin wears rather than the outdrive.

They seem fine, as good as the tamiya 501/511 ones I think.

cool, thats good news Simon, i guess i'll just try them out and see what happens, but your feedback about the outdrives is encouraging

New Clip
 

I have the 3-Racing outdrives on the rear, and they have proven to be adequate so far.
Here is a little video I made on my day off.
Enjoy
FC

Hey guys just picked up a 2nd hand bog stock DB01, just has the Johnson 540 motor and a "No Limit" esc running 26/91 using a 2s Lifepo4 Battery (6.6v) and its a slug, really bogs down out of turns too.

Any suggestions for a basic upgrade? Won't use Lipos or Nimh on safety grounds so want something that'll live with only 6.6v

As this is just a hacker for the one or two novice races I do a yr I don't want to go nuts, I have 2 Baja's to feed :D

Pop in an EZrun 5.5t motor/ESC setup and a slipper on the 6.6v and you'll be enjoying that baby on the cheap :-)

What sort of gearing would I need (dont have any other pinions to suit)

You won't know till you try. If the motor is getting too hot, you need a smaller pinion. With brushed motors, I like to be able to hold my thumb on the can for a minimum of 3 seconds before it feels too hot. With brushless it's more difficult as they say to never go beyond 170*f as it demagnetizes the rotor. A little handheld temp gun is nice for checking this. Personally I would just start out with the smaller pinion and work my way up if it's staying cool...

As for the car itself, I would suggest you strip down and rebuild it. It's a complicated build and I wouldn't trust someone elses workmanship on assembling. There's tons of small plastic spacers in the axles and suspension that must be correct or you will bind up the drivetrain. Also make sure the belts are pleanty loose to keep the drivetrain free. Check that all ball bearings turn smooth and free, and make sure the diffs are tight enough that they don't slip (at least before the slipper).

Adjusting a slipper and ball diffs together can be complicated so be sure your slipper is tight enough to get you off the line, and be sure your diffs are tighter than your slipper. Set your rear diff tight enough so the rear wheels won't spin more than 1 full turn with a quick zip from the palm of your hand. Then set the front diff a little tighter than the rear.

Make sure your pinion/spur mesh is proper and quiet. Easiest way to set 48pitch gears is to simply put a piece of regular paper between the gears and set mesh as tight as you can. Now lock the motor down and roll the paper out. Mesh should have the perfect clearance and run quiet...

You are now on the road to success...

Hey anyone tried the 416 diff screw and nut?

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...4-p-25869.html

i see its 3mm shorter than the db01 diff screw but it has a nice grove in the top which might allow diff adjustments to be made without unclipping the turnbuckle, assuming u can get it to thread into the nut to begin with

Raced the car again today, went awesome again, i did a run on the dual block tyres, C compound front and rear, track conditions weren't ideal as the track was a bit dusty/blown out, but the fronts were excellent, they gave a really good feeling in the front end, not overly darty at high speed and gave good low speed steering also. Rears were good too, but the dusty conditions didnt help, and it was a bit unstable in the rear late in the corner. hopefully i'll get to try is on a more grippy surface tomorrow

Now how on earth would you get to that diff screw to adjust it? If the screw head is not surrounded by the outdrive bearing, you would have to drill a hole straight through your outdrive, and your gearbox. No thanks!

Use the shims to reduce the wobble. If the current one is out of true, a fresh new spur will do the job fine.

I was gonna recommend to loosen the slipper a bit but then I read somewhere that you are running direct drive. Oh well. Maybe you can get a softer compound rear tires or softer springs to gain that traction back?

No worries, i'd say ur right, though the head on that screw is quite tall, my hope was that it would stick up like a losi diff screw and allow an allen wrench to be placed into the outdrive and screw locking it and allowing a diff adjustment, it appears its not going to work like that, and i agree, drilling holes in to the outdrive to acheive that isnt optimal

Yeah good advice, in the end rather than chasing suspension settings i went to the losi bigshot tyre which provided much better grip on the surface, those tamiya tires are pretty good, certainly on the front i think they have a good tire, but the rear, they may need to look to go a grade or two softer on the compound, even though they are the competition compound, the rubber is still harder than a losi silver, which would be fine for grippy clay type tracks, but softer would help in the less grippy track conditions

Hey guys picking up a 8.5 Brushless on the cheap for this thing (Bone stock Durga) what gearing would I need (I have a 17 and a 26) and run Life 6.6v packs.

Also do I need to put in a slipper if I am just running up and down the street>? Plan to get one in a few weeks but funds are tight this month.

Having sold my Durga a while back, very sad i did so too now, she was a beaut....ive been looking at getting another lol. Problem was i want the R spec, and bodies are a pain to get hold of...till now.

Check out that well known auction site guys.....i just bought one by Team Bluegroove this AM....its a repro, but thank god as there like rocking horse poop.

lee

I could only see a Durga shell not a Baldre :cry:

I recently bought a Baldre body for my DB-01R in the Tamiya Plamodel factory shop in Tokyo, they, strangely enough, seemed to have plenty of them.

rc mart had baldre bodies in stock a few weeks ago so i ordered one, they are around, hopefully the supply levels will settle down

Quote:

Originally Posted by fb5b (Post 353137) Hey guys picking up a 8.5 Brushless on the cheap for this thing (Bone stock Durga) what gearing would I need (I have a 17 and a 26) and run Life 6.6v packs.

Well got no response to this (problem with large threads is you have multiple conversations going) and did an order from Stella for a slipper and 3 racing metal outdrives for the rear. Geared 17/91 ran this last night, pretty quick but not insane, motor temps were reasonable considering it was still 33 degrees C outside at 7pm. Would still appreciate some input, diffs are set up nice, fairly loose but no slippage (after 3 yrs of racing a TA05 you become a bit of a guru at these things)

Well, i believe you will be fairly safe up to a 19T pinion. Raced mine last summer in Greece(34 Celcius/5 minute runs). EzRun 60A-8.5T(4200kv) motor and it help fine although the temps where higher that normal. Does your ESC have a fan attached? Mine did.
In a few days i will race my brand new Novak Havoc 3s-8.5T(5000kv) system.

The only thing that still worries me are the diffs, especially the rear one.
I managed to melt one, before i realized what 'tight enough' means. But,
you are already a guru on this matter. Do you have any suggestions? Front diffs must be tighter than the rear. How does that translate to tightening(backing up) the diff screw?

I just had a reply back from Hobby Co. about Baldre bodies and no-one having them in stock in the UK.

Apparently *cough* they're due into the UK in late April or early May so hopefully they'll be some about soon.

Oh! I heard a rumour the Baldre bodies were discontinued!

Baldre Bodies
 

The truth is they have a small shipment of Baldre bodies due in at the end of April. They are all pre-sold bar one. So get on to your local Hobby shop now. I didn't tell you. ;)

Had my first runtime in a few months time yesterday. It went around reasonable for about 1½ lap until i made it do about 8 flips on a landing and i broke of the whole rear shocktower from the diff cover.
The part where the screws go in on the diff cover broke clean off.

Guessing the lower temps (about 6 or 7°C) and the less flexible AC shocktowers don't mix to well with bad crashes.

The change from 9,5T eraser with AI digitial and nimh to 6,5T with SXX TC spec and LiPos is huge though. :thumbsup:
Have to learn how to drive it all over again.

Well the bits arrived from Stella so redid the back diff with the alloy outdrives and installed the slipper, bedded the rear diff in and set it a bit tighter than the front (personal preference) but no slippage so all good.

Reset the end points on the Venom 120A esc and that made a difference to top end (hadn't yet properly calibrated it to my radio since I bought it 2nd hand) so will give it a few runs see how it goes. Picked up a spare spur and front arms just in case... :D

@attachment: Suspension is a bit loose in the back :D

I've got the carbon belt covers on mine, hopefully a bit stronger and won't let that happen again!
Part no 54033