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-   -   Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?) (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5482)

DCM 13-03-2008 11:25 PM

the CVD's are slightly shorter, I noticed the same issue's as you Dom, when I put the CVD's and 501X shocks, I had the 3Racing rear tower, som made a new upper peice and raised it 5mm and it cured it, handled fab too!!

budgio 13-03-2008 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spoolio (Post 103764)
Do the new shocks still use the pop-on knuckle joint system or are M3 machine screws included for a "proper" fitting?

m3 screws are supplied in the kit,

Just waiting on my F&R alloy braces from stella then i,m all set.

A.J. Gee 14-03-2008 01:46 AM

Hey guys. I was wondering if someone could give me some advice for the best way to clean gears. (plastic) Its actually for my DF-03 that i am doing some maintenance on at the moment. It seems that i have a buildup of lithium grease gunked a bit in the rear Diff. Thanks guys.:D

jimmy 14-03-2008 01:54 AM

lighter fluid or motor spray and a tooth brush? that or good ole soapy water :D

A.J. Gee 14-03-2008 02:55 AM

Thanks a lot Jimmy.

DCM 14-03-2008 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tamiya Slave (Post 103801)
Hey guys. I was wondering if someone could give me some advice for the best way to clean gears. (plastic) Its actually for my DF-03 that i am doing some maintenance on at the moment. It seems that i have a buildup of lithium grease gunked a bit in the rear Diff. Thanks guys.:D

you can remove the bearings and soak em in hot water and washing up liquid to loosen it up, then motorspray after to remove residue.

Greasing up, it only needs a light amount of diff grease on each gear, to much and it gets impacted in the bottom of the teeth and flung around the gear case.

A.J. Gee 14-03-2008 05:04 PM

I appreciate the advice. When you say "washing up liquid" , do you mean like a liquid detergent that you would use to wash dishes?

DCM 14-03-2008 05:51 PM

yeah, thats the stuff, the stuff you put in the water to wash dishes!

A.J. Gee 14-03-2008 06:05 PM

Yeah thats what i soaked the gears in with extremely hot water. For the bearings i used some good old motor spray. Both worked very well. It felt good doing an entire strip down of my keen hawk last night, making sure everything was still in working order and then de greasing and re gearsing all the gears. I must say though, after owning a belt drive (Durga), i dont think i can ever go back to running shaft drive. Belt drive is smooth like butter and me likey a lot. Do you guys know for sure if the new schumacher buggy is gonna be belt driven?

mes 15-03-2008 04:05 PM

The CAT SX will feature three belts afaik.

A.J. Gee 15-03-2008 04:53 PM

And if i recall, the losi xx4 is the only other competition buggy that features 3 belts?

A.J. Gee 15-03-2008 07:55 PM

Have any of you guys used ceramic balls for the Durgas Diff? And if so, does it make a difference?

budgio 16-03-2008 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM (Post 103776)
the CVD's are slightly shorter, I noticed the same issue's as you Dom, when I put the CVD's and 501X shocks, I had the 3Racing rear tower, som made a new upper peice and raised it 5mm and it cured it, handled fab too!!

The Tamiya hop up cvd,s are giving me the same problem (when using the 3 racing rear tower)gone back to the dogbones for now.When you said you made a new upper piece what did you do ? Thanks in advance :D

sosidge 16-03-2008 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by budgio (Post 104459)
The Tamiya hop up cvd,s are giving me the same problem (when using the 3 racing rear tower)gone back to the dogbones for now.When you said you made a new upper piece what did you do ? Thanks in advance :D

I had some carbon towers custom made with the shock mountings 4mm higher up, I can sell them for £30 the pair, PM me if anyone is interested, they have never been used, I just don't think I am going to need them, quite happy with the kit parts at the end of the day.

Spoolio 17-03-2008 10:29 PM

All bits here now!!!!!
 
Yippee, all my shiny new bits are now safely in the garage, 3racing front and rear hinge pin mounts, #54028 Hop-Up dampers as well as some spare belts and slipper pads. Oh yeah, and a complete spare car just to be safe.

This may sound extravagant but I've still got loads of change from what I would have spent on one B44.

Now then, any recommendations to what weight oil to put in my lovely new dampers? I think I will run the blue and silver Team Associated springs as I've got some spare ones in the pit box.

Really looking forward to Worksop next weekend now.

DCM 17-03-2008 11:14 PM

carpet, I run 40wt front and 35wt in the rear, go down 5wt all round for outdoors.

A.J. Gee 18-03-2008 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tamiya Slave (Post 104360)
Have any of you guys used ceramic balls for the Durgas Diff? And if so, does it make a difference?



Bump ity bump

jimmy 18-03-2008 12:44 AM

I've been running the kit balls and though ceramic balls are a nice upgrade, I don't think its as important as it was on the original 501X - these larger diameter diffs with more balls don't put as much strain on each ball. (!) also the sealed drivetrain helps.

Spoolio 18-03-2008 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM (Post 105014)
carpet, I run 40wt front and 35wt in the rear, go down 5wt all round for outdoors.

Thanks, which pistons for indoor racing? There is a choice of No3 (1.3mm) or No4 (1.4mm) in the damper kit.

DCM 18-03-2008 09:53 AM

try the 1.3mm in the front and 1.4mm in the rear, if it feels a little stiff and uncomplying, try the 1.4mm in the front, thats what I use, but it does like to pivot on the front then, which I like.q


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