Alu servo saver kit turned up today....

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7027/6...21ec18d4_z.jpg

Removed origional steering system...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7166/6...c738f022_z.jpg

Assembled the new shiny one :wub...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7156/6...4b9540b4_z.jpg

Put it all back together took about 20 minutes, steering is really easy to work on.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7012/6...dcbda4f8_z.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7030/6...476e7dfc_z.jpg

Two comments about the steering that need to be made are there is slightly more slop, about 2mm max up and down movement, secondly the main part is you cannot refit the m3 nuts are they are not flush in the steering arm like the standard part is, if you fit the nut you obstruct the steering arm and it will not turn. basically just threadlocked the screw and all should be ok. this can be seen in second and final picture.

list of parts to upgrade to in the future.....

Alu front and rear shock towers.
Titanium turnbuckle kit.
Titanium shock mounts.
Blue front springs.
More spares such as driveshafts, pins, rear wishbones.

you need to thread lock the steering stuffo,r it will come out

You could try Durango low profile M3 locknuts (TD715001), I'm sure that they will fit.

Yes they were thread locked, the nuts wont fit at all, its not the height its the width that stops you from using them.

Its hard to see from this pc but on full lock you have about 1mm gap from the ankerman plate. with the nut on it SEVERLY limits the turning.

Ill stick it on RC Tech see if anyone knows.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/6...e5ce0389_z.jpg

Just thought I'd give an update as just got my shell back from eyeayen (Ian), and it sure is good. I still cannot beleive that no stickers were used and all was done with an airbrush, even the Arai logo. The pics don't even do it justice to be honest as the deep blue really comes to life in daylight.
I still have a bit of tidying up to do tomorrow with it, especially around the steering linkage.

http://www.oople.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1325359307

http://www.oople.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1325359307

take your time its a real pain in the ass. I used a craft knife ;)

can I ask where the idea came from for the design?

lets see the shell off :D

alloy wing washers, wing posts and a spare wing mount set cheap here...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/s12151-ser...item3a6e30e5f3

I adapted an Arai crash helmet design to fit, hence the Arai logo on the shell.

Nice paint job,any one have front ring and pinion ring bit crunchy rear is spot on?

With my build I found that the rear was spot on with the amended shimming recommendations, still a bit tight but good as per the instructions. With the front I had to remove one of the shims fitted behind the pinion, then the front is still a notchy but ok. I actually found that the gear mesh would be tight on one half of the gearwheels revolution and then a bit more free as if the gearwheel wasn't quite true. But this will run in ok.

Just remember that the amended shimming is a recommendation, or starting point. Just set it up so that it is a bit tight, this is so that it can bed in properly and then should free up after about 1-2 hours driving when you should check it again.

Hope this helps.

Yes I took one out felt better still crunchy, will put 0.1 when ran in

Just building my Cobra and all is really good.......Just a couple of questions for those who have already built them.

- The anti roll bar balls that go into the wishbone are very tight when the ally nut is tweaked up? Seems weird to me......
- The little m3 x 4mm grub is the rear hub.....whats this for?

Both probably obvious but not for me LOL

Very nice car so far.....by far in a different class to the Losi 8ights i have had before!!

Get the rear Hub in your hand get the pin it's holds the bearing in supposedly you will see a smal hole in the hub goes in that

you'll have to back off 8th of a turn to allow the ball to move freely.

lets see pics of your build :)

Back the ally anti roll bar nuts off a smidge and all should be good.

Ive got a few pics to post up soon......If I tighten anything more than hand tight the balls are stiff, guess they will just bed in as they are used.......and that grub screw in the rear hub just seems to go straight through and doesnt go against anything......And as with your build LIP i could only use 2 of the 3 self tappers to hold the bearings inside the diff case.

There will be 4 of these at our club now......lets hope the drive as well as they look!!! We all had Losi 8ight E's (which look like plastic fantastic now!!!

I followed the supplement sheet for the shimming.......Front feels a bit notchier than the rear so just gonna see how it goes........and re-shim as required once ive had a few packs through it.

Will replace all the plastic washers and nuts soon (not sure why they use these......but wanted to build the kit box stock and then upgrade after)

Shame my CC2200 won't fit, will have to use my trackstar 2560 to start then invest in rx8 & T8 1900 at a later point.

Good to see these are getting a nice little following, hopefully the 8th electric buggy scene is going to pick up and become much much bigger.

certainly is.... watch this space....

The nut that holds the ARB pivot in the arm needs to be tightened up until the pivot is hard to move then backed off. If this doesn't work then I would take it apart a see what's happening as this should have free movent after doing that.
The Grub screw in the rear hub is for oiling the bearings.

where can I get the massive chrome serpent stickers? on the 1st pics released of the shell there are 2 huge serpent stickers, I expected these on the chrome sticker sheet, but not there. :confused:

Download the logo from the site, go along to your local sign writing emporium and get them to make you some. Or Jon Miller might be able to do it ?

Where to buy parts in UK?

Elite RC in Halifax, I get mine via mail order from them. There is no real web site at the mo for them but you can contact them by email or phone.
The contact details are 01422 373010 or email [email protected]

Ive been waiting a couple of requests and appears still not in stock, when more serpents are in circulation im sure spares will be more readily available.

My hands are covered in blisters after finishing building the car Saturday night..but was well worth for race day on Sunday... annoyingly i didn't get time to paint the shell so i ran it naked for the day lol..

couple of points when building..

1.use 2 shims not 3 when building the front diff pinion..i currently running 3 shims and after a day of running the front gearbox is still way too tight..

2. file and super glue the carbon front shock tower..is a must..i did flip over at one point and now my shock tower is shagged..(why serpent did you have too use a carbon shock anyway??)

3. cut the top off the receiver box if using 2.4GHz and no Ariel and just use a soldering iron too melt and close the hole left..means you don't have to have a hole in your shell

4.before installing the servo(especially if its a ace 1015)..remember to use a file on the servo mount as the servo mount too tight for any servo with a heat sink

5.Dont use the underside pt mount as it doesn't fricking work haha..

during the day i manage to shave a good 20 degrees off the temps of my castle 2650kv when compared to my old losi 8ight E..the car is a lot more stable and can change direction much easier even just running the base set-up.. absolutely chuff too bits with the car..cant wait for the next round now:thumbsup: