RC champ
 

Thanks for the replies.Probably going to sound thick here, but tried the rc champ website but am totally lost.

Tried using babel fish to translate. Is there an easier way or and english option on the website.
How are they for import duties and such?
thinking I might order the lot from them if people say they are good.

Cheers

email to [email protected] with part numbers for prices

Thanks again.
Time for another stoopid question though. Where do I get those part numbers?
I've got the kit one off the website but can't fid the slipper of shocks.
(yes I know I am being a pain noob etc etc)

Cheers

waneski, try tamiya usa website, they have the slipper on the coming soon section plus what else will be released with them; as for standard part numbers, try member drinternet on this thread as he has the kit and manual already.
hope this helps all those looking at getting one; there are quite a few parts that are from previous tamiya models, for example the rear hinge pin is the same as the TA04R hinge pin ( car to buggy use) other car parts are used from the evo 4, TA05 etc. too from the brief look I have had of drinternets manual.:););)

Also the shocks you could update to either TRF501X ones, the Associated threaded B4 / B44 ones or the Yokomo ones I think also fit.

its a case of a noob leading the noob here but check here for part numbers for all parts and optional hop up code numbers (click the apropriate link on the page - top right)

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58395

Slipper is # 54018
for shocks I'm thinking of getting ae B44 shock sets ...sacrilege I know !! (probably from Tower Hobbies)
they should (as Jimmy said) issue a complete set of 501x shocks or better yet a race edition with most hop ups included...slipper, cvd's, c/f shock towers, threaded alloy shocks, one way centre pulley (better than a one way front diff IMO) alloy steering brace...that'd about do it for me

Noobs have to ask if they want to learn, I know I did and suspect most of us did at some time, so helping some one out should not be a pain but a joy that there are more getting into our sport / hobby.

Thats why most RC forums are there and also have nooby sections or where do I / how can I sections etc.

End of rant and may more noobies come into the sport.

duga manual
 

I would be happy to look up any parts in question. as Malky said some of the parts are common. The belts are from the 501. there has been a scan of the Durga Instruction manual though posted on the Tamiya club site. the link is

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/inde...topic=39605&hl=


You will see the parts I was asking about before A12 with A10 and A11??

they are shims to raise or lower the rear of the front wishbones, they are a tuning option.

Thanks everyone for the help.
Sent the email asking about, Kit, slipper, cv front and rear.
Think I'll copy you butmonkey and go for the B44 shocks. Never had much luck with Tamiya units back in the day always ended up swapping them out with sommit else. Are they a staright fit or will I have to get creative?

the new threaded stuff from tamiya is as good as any other shock out there.

CVD's won't be available till the middle of December, I have ordered up, for the interim, some Yeah Racing 501X driveshafts.

Durga
 

Thanks I wondered if they were somthing like that. I guess just installing the block without the shims would be the way to start. What I also asked was the part BG8 that you are supposed to glue to A7. I know Jimmy glued his in one of the reviews but didnt say what glue he used. Would superglue be ok do you think. It says rubber glue??

oh bugger, they got them stupid diff halves. BG8 is the diff ring, place it on the plastic holder with a little diff grease, don't glue it, but I would recomend gluing BG6 and A7 together, and the acording parts for the other side

Are these the ones you are looking at ButtMonkey?

LXSZC2 Associated Front Shock Kit B44

Can't find the rears though yet.
Can you tell I am bored at work with nothing to do?

So are the 501x really as good as these? I admit I haven't a clue and things have definitely change in the 15 odd years I missed. But tamiya shocks always gave me trouble.

OK DCM. Superglue be OK? or polystyrene cement

I've not seen the manual, but are these half-plastic diff halves you're talking about here? (dcm?) if so - then I did indeed glue them using superglue (thin CA tyre glue from proline used sparingly, to be exact) after scratching them up to make sure they 'stuck'

Wayneski - Ive not seen the B44 shocks - I imagine they are the same as the B44 but with new (gold) shafts? Either way They are great shocks - but I think the Tamiya are easier to build (cue comment from someone who likes poking a stick into a shock to remove the orings) and in terms of performance the shocks are pretty much identical. I prefer the 501X shocks - but since you can't easily buy them AE shocks will do the job just as well.

Not sure about mounting them though - it won't be any big problem however.

Yep, thats what I had in mind....however on TAMIYACLUB.COM http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/inde...39521&hl=durga

94eq! posted a shortlist of tamiya parts needed to build a pair post #15
x1 V Parts: 51280 (includes 2)
x1 W Parts: 51281 (includes 2)
x1 X Parts: 51282 (includes 2)
x1 Damper Parts Bag: 9404701

My question to anyone with a durga in their hot little hands (most of my questions have been answered or I can wait) is,
....what are the diff out drives made from ?

btw, my last Tamiya (and 1st rc) was the original Frog !....geez technology has come along way since !!
then .....
Hirobo Zerda (classic !)
Schumacher CAT XLS (should NEVER have sold it)
Schumacher Cougar '95 (m'eh ....I just don't posses the 2WD gene)
and currently have
1/18th Vendetta ST/buggy.....
(only fun on carpet or the smootest of offroad surfaces)

Jimmy, Manual posted below. Here it is again though

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/inde...topic=39605&hl=

Durga manual
 

Scanned Durga manual
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/inde...howtopic=39605

Hi everyone,

I am new to the forum but, for your info, I bought a Durga, the TRF501X Alu-Damper-Set and the DB01 Slipper-Set (item 54018).

the damper set is made of the following items:
1x 9404701 Damper Alu zylinder - set
1x 51282 Damper Retainer
1x 51280 Damper Cap
1x 53976 Damper piston

Everything is available in Switzerland (I live in Geneva) at the Swiss Tamiya Shop:
http://www.tamiyashop.ch/

I've been to that shop!
However when I tried to checkout i just got a message saying they couldn't ship to my address.
Up until going to rc champ it was the only place I found with the slipper in stock
Sounds like the 501 shocks may be the way to go with my sausage fingers from what jimmy is saying! Don't know still gonna ponder that one for a while. Depends what RC champ say about availablilty of the rest.
I had a frog too Butt. Bit of a love hat relationship with it. Loved to drive it hated stripping hex shafts every 5 mins

diff halves are metal I think, with a plastic mounting base, I shall measure them up against the TA05 stuff to.

Does the Swiss Tamiya shop ship to the UK?

I don't know.

Here is the mail of the shop owner named Andi

[email protected]

He hes been very helpful so far.

Just got a mail back from Andi.
He will ship to uk but you need to email him for quote etc.
Will accept paypal and will send parts with tracking number. Seems quite the gent and fast response too

Durga Build
 

OK BG6 is metal and A7 is plastic. Would you still glue them. I see some parts are made of a flexy polythene type of plastic. Part B5 which covers the hole in the bottom of the tub is made of that and can be overtightened and stripped. I thought more of the screws were hex heads but most are the cross heads. The bags are not numbered as per Tamiya's usual either but its easy to work out what bag is what.

I did it opposite to DCM, I didnt glue the outdrive to the plastic holder - but I did glue the diff ring to the plastic holder..... that is on the DF03 which looks to have similar construction.

Durga Build
 

Jimmy,

The sooner you get your car and do a review on the build the happier ill be

ah yes, I remember now, do it Jimmy's way, the plate spins on the holder otherwise!

so jimmy whithout sounding like an annoying self interested Tw*t when will you be getting this model and doing a review?

I should maybe get it the back end of this week - and start it pretty much right away.

mine is stuck in customs grrrrr..... I will use Stella next time

Same here mate :(.......so annoying:mad: i should,ve used stella.

I used rc-champ thinking I would get it quicker... stella is faster

LMAO! I was just searching for Stella Models, as its a shop I hadn't heard of before.

StellaModels.com :o

mmm. Maria Paeck is my personal favourite at the moment.

Don't worry, its not POrn!

Durga
 

You guys need to bite the bullet next time. Support your local sheriff (or the shops in the UK that have stocks) and play one against the other for the best price. (Easy for me to say. My wife bought mine for my Xmas)

lets just say, the price I paid, retail, is less than the shops in the UK can buy it at trade, and those shops who had them in early had done what I had done, bought abroad....

That's pretty crazy when you think about it. I bought mine overseas - if someone wants to give me one for free to review go for it, but I already have too many cars than I have time for - I need to get a car asap (hence overseas - stalled launches are a new thing on me!) and cheap as possible since I spend far far farrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrrrrrrrrrr too much on oople.com as it is.

if I could steal the thing I would.:p

should get some hot driver to autograh the cars and flog em on FleaBay... or stage a burglary, and get the money of the insurance company heehee

I wonder if Tamiya will bring out a DB01 centre oneway pulley ...? I also wonder if the TOA5 centre oneway (16T) pulley is adaptable....hmmmm,...I wonder ?!

They failed to bring one out for the 501X - but you never know. Hupo Honigl said they were working on it (for the 501X) but not sure what happened there.

it would need a shorter gear adaptor and a larger gear on for the one-way, thats it.