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thanks Lee, thats a big help :thumbsup:
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can anyone tell me whether they've tried the following on the X6/X6sq (with how they found it went too)...
25 degree castor blocks inline axles |
25deg blocks come standard, I ran alloy versions of them on the X6 all last year and they suited most places for me, I tried the inline axles which gave me more aggressive steering but less straight line stability and found the car easier to drive with the stardard axles.
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I've only ran the 25's once, and took them off cos i thought they were a bit gay, but i do want to try them again, as my car wasn't set up properly then. I really can't remember which way on the castor does what (many differing opinions)
Also, can anyone explain why the inline axles make the steering more aggressive? |
The 25° caster blocks are recommended in most cases. even less steering entering corners and more steering exiting corners.:thumbsup: All out of my head :lol:• Use 30° of caster (optional #9593 caster blocks) if you need increased steering entering corners and less steering exiting corners. It will also be more stable when accelerating through fast bumpy track conditions. • Use 25° of caster (#9580 caster blocks) if you need less amount of steering entering corners than the 30° blocks, but more steering in the middle and exiting corners. • Use 20° of caster (optional #9592 caster blocks) if you need |
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lol, you fibber, that's straight out of the b4 setup guide :woot: |
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Scousers will nick anything :lol:
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yeah, i was kinda hoping for an explanation as to why inlines are more aggressive. just curious really
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My guess is that with the trailing axles the whole car has to move left and right as the wheels turn, dulling initial turn-in. If anything technically I'd say the trailing axles are less aggressive than the neutral inline's.
Inlines are the future :thumbsup: |
that's got to be worth a go! :thumbsup:
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Me again:lol: Your front axle position affects how your car will steer. The standard trailing axle is behind (fig. 1) the kingpin and makes for less aggressive steering. The optional inline axle steering block lines up with the kingpin and causes the steering to be more aggressive. When should I change the steering blocks? The trailing steering blocks (#9581, top of fig. 2) should be used #9623.in most cases. The Team especially recommends the trailing blocks on high-grip or “blue-groove”. • Changing to the optional inline steering blocks (#9577, bottom of fig. 2) will give the car an overall more aggressive steering feeling. Steering entering and exiting the corners is increased, and straight line stability is slightly reduced. You’ll also need optional inline axle |
This is how it works:
The trailing axles are behind the "real" center of the kinpin. And that will force the wheels to turn outwards (left to left, right to right), keeping them very tight & stable. Since they are "pushed against the steering rods". When checking toe-in (or out) you should always roll the car forward a little to see the "tru toe". With inlines there's no stabilizing effect. It's wobbly wobbly... :D (Correct me if I'm wrong) But does it really steer more? Isn't it just quicker steering "reaction"? |
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Pics of it? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Picture016.jpg Like this? |
Yeah me too boss???
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Blyth
any one got a good starting set up for the x6 square for an outdoor virgin?
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Cheers Lee |
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Darren |
I would like to know through your astroturf experience this questions about X6:
As you know next weekend will be Warm-up Euros at Bilbao. I am not sure but It will be 80% astro-turf and 20% vegetable ground The control tyre are Schumacher mini spike 2 For the rear tyres what spike file do you recomend to cut? What's the handling diference? The front tyres are not slim, are U6557,little wider (too much grip?). What spike file do you recomend to cut? What's the handling difference too? Thanx |
Sometimes i will cut the outer row of spikes off the rear tyres if i am getting grip roll. Are those minispikes fronts quoted in the part number? If so then on a dry astro track i will cut upto the inner and outer rows off to tame the front end. I doubt a stagger rib works very well on grass/vegetable ground so i think you would need a spike :)
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The U6557 is the recomended compound.
Now I realize Mini Spike 2 has not slim type tyre :confused: What Schumacher front tyre do you use at BRCA nationals? |
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Confirmed price is £23.99 and it will be available through oursleves and all good X-Factory UK stockists as from the middle of next week. |
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I would assume it will be the tyre to use in spain as well, it doesn't rain there does it :lol: I would start with a full front tyre and maybe take the outside row off if there is too much bite and then the inside row if you need too :) |
Thanks Lee I will try that way.
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Hi guys, I have a question for you regarding the setup of my X6.
Last Wednesday I ran in a local race in the neighbour club, and this was my first time on a dirt track with the X6. I did experience some understeer, but that is probably because I still have too much rear bias on the weight ditribution. But to my question: The track is a LAAAAARGE one designed for 1/8 scale cars, and each lap takse about one minute (...) but the issue I had was that on the straight the surface is quite good, but it has some large bumps (some 1-2 m long), which caused the car to start bouncing and if I was too heavy on the throttle, it basically bounced right off the track... I wetched some of the other cars, and they were a lot more planted, and could maintan a higher speed. One former X-6 driver suggested going down to 20 wt oil in the rear (I am basically running the Ellis setup with AE shocks, using LOSI red pistons in the rear.) I also though about the fact that before the last race, I limited the down-travel in the rear shocks with 3mm spacers, since I used the original AE driveshafts. Could it be that the reduced droop is what is causing the problems? I have the finals of this race (the race is dvided in two: qualifying one week, then finals two weeks later :D ) coming up next week, but I have no chance of getting any practice done, so I thougfh someone in here could point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance. |
Oh well, since you guys probably were out racing instead of checking the forum, did I update the setup with 20wt oil in the rear, removed the 3mm down stops (I have the longer axles now) and I also moved the weight forward, so I am currently at 64/36, total weight 1580g
Hope it will be better :D |
Grelland, the dirt-track set-up is far different from the U.K grass-astro set-up. Different springs, oil & pistons, camber links, even the amount of weight we are running. Check http://www.2wdrc.com/tech/SetupSheets.htm for at least 5 set-ups from 2009 from Kinwald, Griffin, Sinclair, Sava, and Galan.
The first four are all U.S. dirt track set-ups, I think Eduardo's is for dirt with astro on the jumps. |
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Thanks, I will look into this, but bare in mind that the US dirt tracks are far from what we have here in Norway, check out these pics from last years Nats round at my local track....
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Is that 2nd picture not the surface of the moon???
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I echo Dan's sentiments entirely, i really wouldn't be disappointed if my car bounced around on half buried rocks. The X6 is one of the best balanced cars around but on tracks like that you really are fighting an uphill battle. The cars were not designed to take punishment like that.
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Thanks guys. I will have a go, and update you next week after the race :)
I also have to say that these pics were for illustration purpose only, it is from my home track, while the race next week is on a different one that is much better maintained. |
Just a short note to say that after changing my setup according to your recommondations, I felt like I was driving a completely new car :)
I now use Losi shocks, and the car behaved beatutifully, and now I can only blame my driving skills for ending up just ouside the posium last night. But the car felt extremely planted and stable, especially over the bumpy sections. I even convinced my racing friend here to convert his B4, so that's how good it was :) Thanks again guys. Roy |
x5 squared setup
hi
I run my x5 squared at dms model car club which is a very tight high grip track (carpet)(running yellow mini pins), its also completly flat only 2 or 3 jumps with only 1 slippy corner and a few bot dots any ideas on setup wood be great thanks |
x5 squared setup
any one ????
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This is how I have been running my car recently outdoors and should be a reasonable start point.
I know the red front spring may seem strange but it is actually pretty easy on the steering with it. However for indoors maybe the following would help as well if the car is not so good with this set up: Harder springs front and rear, maybe a silver or green front and a pink/red rear. Move the shocks out on the wishbones, limit the droop a little. Front and rear roll bars. Although this is not a carpet setup I'm sure you can get it somewhere near with this and the above notes. E. |
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