I had a front wheel bearing go on my cyber in its second meeting. I have changed all the bearings on my cyber and now run the Edit D4 bearing set, and since never had a problem.

Mine has now... time to get new bearings :confused:

Quick question, does the purple part (towards the front end) of the D4 WCE slipper clutch tend to loosen alot by itself?

Yes. I take it you mean the collar that tightens the slipper?

Put some thread lock on it to stop it loosening. :)

It still moves to tighten but doesn't loosen during a race.

:thumbsup:

Thanks telboy for the tip :thumbsup:

Gave 'her' a run this evening... (the threadlock) worked like a charm... thanks telboy for the advice :thumbsup:

Hey all...i got some questions,

i have a mate and he claims he has a cyber 10b and its some special one....
but he wont show me.. he rekens he cant show me yet cause he hasnt got this motor mount... is there a tricky motor mount??

is there a special or pro version 10b??

LOL, the special version of the Cyber is the D4! lol

They have a nice orange alloy motor mount out for the Cyber now.
But it is fairly pricey. I think in total it comes to around £80ish for all the parts.:wtf:

But other than that, unless he's an 'A team' he won't be getting any 'special parts' unless he's made them himself. :)

The Edit lightweight D4 diff and slipper parts will fit the Cyber too. Well worth the weight saving. :thumbsup:

Anyone come across aluminum front and rear suspension mounts yet? Don't think HB's D4 fit, right?

Alloy suspension mounts?
Do you mean the front and rear hubs?

If so, the D4 ones will fit the rear, but the front hubs on the Cyber are different. You may be able to fit the whole D4 hubs on the front though, but the parts will not swap/interchange.

If you mean shock towers, then I'm unaware that anyone make any.

Hi telboy, am referring to this. The front and rear hubs fit perfectly :thumbsup:

Btw, are the Yeah Racing Blue Telfon Bearings ok replacement to the original bearings that came with the kit?

Ah, ok, I see what you mean now. :blush:

Hmm. Not sure. If anyone has a D4 and they would like to try the rear toe-in block on the Cyber then that would help to see.
Personally I don't know if they will fit, as I've been happy with the kit versions.

If any I'd say that the rear one might fit, but I doubt the inboard ones would. but like I say, I haven't tried and haven't got a D4 to try it. :)

Thanks telboy for your reply. Btw, are the Yeah Racing Blue Telfon Bearings ok replacement to the original bearings that came with the kit? No idea where to get the Edit D4 bearing set (not sure if i can afford it though) :blush:

Providing they're a direct replacement set then I can't see why not. :)

Thanks again telboy, appreciate all the help you've dished out :thumbsup:

Bearings arrived and all seems ok so far :D

A good afternoon to everyone,

Not normal for the screw at the top of the shock tower to bend, right? :confused:

Thanks in advance.

Depends on what you hit and how fast you were going. Better the screw bends than the shock or tower breaking!

Noted with thanks, sparrow.2 :thumbsup:

Changing them would be a good idea then (currently bent slightly)?

You can bend them back within reason but they will be more likely to break eventually.

Thanks again, sparrow.2 :)

Well, I like what I've heard here about this kit, So mine is on order now. I also picked up the UJ driveshafts, and a slipper clutch for it. I've got 3 BL motor combos laying around a castle creations 5700, 7700, and a TRX VXL. Which would be ideal for this little monster. For batteries, I've got a few 6cell nimh sticks, and a few 2 cell lipo's

To be honest it really depends on the track size and how technical or straight it is, if it's a smaller or a more technical track I would go for the 5700 kv which is approximatley a 6.5 turn. If you are on a larger track with long straights then the 7700kv which is about a 5.5 turn...

Hope that helps :thumbsup:

Cool, that actually does help. What gearing would you reccomend to start with on the 7700? I know the VXL one is a 3500 so the gearing choices are pretty wide open.

Again this does depend on how big and open the track is as the lower the overall ratio the faster the top end and more heat will be generated... I would probably start with the stock spur and around a 21 pinion and gauge it from there..

Well, I've given in, it's here, and I put the little guy together(sort of). Here's a peek so far. I did it strictly according to the manual, but, I don't like the toe on it. The tires are proline dirthawgs. They probally suck in the dirt, But they were cheap and i think it looks pretty cool. I tried really hard to hide the wires on it for a clean install. And i decided to go with the 5700kv on a 18t pinion, I'll have to let you know how it goes.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSC00041.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSC00042.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSC00046.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSC00043.jpg

Yeah, this is far too much toe in at the front.

I would adjust the steering turnbuckles so that the front wheels run parallel. Make sure the left and right steering turnbuckles are equal lenghts.

Yup fixed the toe, have it sitting pretty nice now. But I'm kind of dissapointed with the cc 5700. It was pretty good with a 20t pinion and the stock spur, but the motor would get really hot with 2-3 min of puttering around. So I opted for surgery. There will be pictures to come soon. But I swapped out the cc for a Trx VXL, and a 31t pinion. And now this thing is a bullet. I'm really impressed with this TRAX brushless combo. But the ESC is Friggin HUGE!! and it's running 12g wire to the motor.

Don't ever(!) braid your wires. It will do strange things with your car, worsen your reception and heat your wires.

Ahh. That explaines the weird reception issue it was having. I did it because I'd seen it a bunch on some other forum. Thanks for the tip

Do you have the castle PC link up lead??? might be worth downloading the latest firmware onto the speedo and checking the timing settings..

I have been running the HPI version of this (exactly the same but rebadged)...Ran last time out with stock spur and a 24 pinion...temps well in the safe zone...approx 130F after about 7 mins ( 2mins warm up and 5 mins race)..(Castle recomend 200F Max but I wouldnt go higher than 180F to preserve the motor a little)

If you have got the lead download the latest firmware make sure the timing is either at default for the gearing I mention above or turn it down to lowest this will take about 30degs off the running temp, It will also give you alot more torque/punch and will then allow you to go up a couple of teeth on the pinion..

I have just done this and am running this sunday and starting with a 26 tooth pinion and stock spur and will temp check from there..

I do have the castle link goodies, I had turned the timing down all the way and reduced the punch to about 40% But it was still far to hot to touch. I may try the castle again later on, but for now the VXL is pretty good for my uses. I still can't believe how well this car handles! My only issue right now is using a Turnigy 5000mAh 2S Hardcase, all the weight seems to be foreward, so if it gets ariborne, the nose drops really fast. Even with the throttle pegged.

And here are the pictures I promised. The speed control was sort of a pain to get in there. Had to do some trimming on the esc itself. (if I was home and had my dremel it'd would have been too easy.)

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSC00047.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSC00048.jpg

B.T.W. .... the black on the wheel is what happens if you leave your buggy unattended in a tent that 16 other guys live in. And the dust is the famous Afganistan "moon dust" it's finer than talcum powder, and will stop any R/C car you drive into the deep stuff. It's rather confusing for dirt on account of how it flows like water. weird.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSC00049.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSC00050.jpg

Well, now that I've bashed a little bit with this rocket. I have to admit, I've never driven a car that handles like this. And though the tires look as though they are only for the asphalt, in the hard packed dirt the car didn't slide very much at all. Has anyone else tried them?

thanks mate

The Proline Dirt Hawgs that are on the buggy in the picture, the buggy was $199.99 from omnihobbies on ebay. And a fan for the vxl is comming in the mail.

how many diffs have you worn out ???

Havn't cooked a diff yet, but I rebuild them every 2-4 days, and use tamiya ceramic grease. I figure it's better to err on the side of caution.

they sound like a good car