I have just bought a new alloy spur gear cover which accomodates the slipper clutch and a blue alloy battery cover which i,m hoping will stiffen up the chassis and stop my main driveshaft popping out.
http://m1.freeshare.us/169fs184427.jpg

Nevermind...I just found out that they're the same ones as in the TA04. Still wondering about the diff balls though...are the diff balls 3mm, as in the 501x?

DCM, are you still running the front diff outdrives in the rear? Any issues with them? I still don't understand why tamiya made the hybrid steel/plastic outdrive design for the rear if the fronts work all the same. :eh?:

I gave up running mine due to the rear wishbone hanging off the gearbox, might give it a blast in the winter, the running I did, didn't wear them.

I did the same thing at Coventry tonight:( 1st time though

I've just discovered that the carbon/graphite 3 Racing front suspension brace I have, will fit on the rear, at the front of the rear wishbones, that should strengthen it up shouldn't it?

Only problem is that I now need another one to put back on the front of the car!

It's nearly finished now, so here's a photo!
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...e/P8240052.jpg

Nice looking DF-03, Belsten.

I see that you were able to use the heatsink bars with the 3racing rear tranny brace. Did it fit as built, or did you have to add any spacers or anything for clearance?

thats bling-a-ding-a-licious that Pete!!!

Thanks!
It all fitted straight out of the packet, no modifications needed at all.

Thanks Steve.
It's nearly finished now, I got a bit carried away on ebay! Still some more stuff on their way to me.

heehee... good thing about Tamiya, loads of goodies, and all priced in US$ heehee

Yes, but can you find a decent body/undertray anywhere?
Finally fitted the bodyshell to discover that the Avante body doesn't come down as far as the chassis! About a 3mm gap all round. :mad:

Don't put the fron chassi brace on the rear! Buy this instead. I have it on my DI:)

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=22198

I have that too, but I felt the brace in front of the wishbones would be stronger than one behind them, so didn't fit it.
Why do you feel this one is better?

Well...I don't if it's better. But the hinge pins are in titanium and should not bend so easily. Anyway, it looks more beefier than the piece of CF:p

True, it does look good!

wahh, very nice looking, i hope my df03 will bling2 also next time, now my df03 still standard, no others changing:)

Thanks sabut! It looks great, but needs an undertray or similar as the body doesn't quite fit the chassis. Possibly because I have the Avante2 bodyshell, rather than the Dark Impact or Keen Hawk.

Hello.

I found a new conversion kit for the DF-03. Is made by Xenon Racing! and looks good, better than 3Racing chassis. this is the only picture that I could find. I can see that there is no problem at all to use side by side batterys.

http://www.xenon.ne.jp/xenon.html

Cheers.

Seems like it uses two layers of cf for the chassis

Can't really see a lot from the pictures. Why is it better than the 3Racing? The 3Racing ones cannot accept side-by-side cells?

3Racing Chassis can't acept side by side bateries without a previous dremel work in the aluminium suports. You also should protect with tape all the aluminiun parts to aboid short circuits. Finally is quite difficult to insert the side by side bateries once the car is finish.

Oh okay. Thanks for that info.

Hi Belsen, Is the car finished now?, how's it going.

Quick question from the photo it looks like you have fitted the tamiya heat sinks and 3 racing gear box stiffener. I did not think you could fit both at the same time? any mods required?

Where did you buy the lexan from or does anyone know of a suitable undertray that'll fit without to much cutting?

Hi Rob, I've made some changes to my DF03, I'll try and post some more photos.

But the tamiya heat sinks and the 3 racing gear box stiffener fit without any mods at all.

I'll update the DF-03 winter project topic with pics.

Hi all

im using the 3Racing graphite conversion kit, tamiya hop up suspension, 3racing graphite towers and CVAs.

The buggy goes excellent with my mamba 7700, and take note that Im running in a 1/8 buggy track.

the only problem is I broke two rear arms due wrong landings...

but anyway is a lot better broking arms than a chassis, and I broke 3 of them!!

Does anyone know if there is an undertray that will fit the Df-03 chassis (particularly for the 3Racing) so the underside can be protected? I'm thinking since the battery is loaded from underneath, probably a 3M chassis protector tape would work better then a lexan?

I received my 3Racing chassis last week. I'm very impressed! I didn't really hope for much seeing as how this was another product from HK... To my surprise, this chassis kit is very high in quality! I can tell that they carefully selected the hole sizes (M3 and M2.6 screws in the right place), and the chassis are thick, 3mm cut...

Their shock towers are also very high quality, very beefy 3mm cuts...

Does anyone here use this chassis as well? How did you mitigate the scratching underneath? Is there an undertray from another vehicle that I can run that is close to the shape of the DF-03 chassis?

I finally got to go home today.And there it was sitting on my desk.My chassis conversion form KM and some other alluminum goodies.I can 't wait to get started on this project and start running it.I will get some pics on as well as the project unfolds.

Sweeeeeeeeeet. Would love to see your ride after it's done Animal! Keep us posted!

here is my old one, I have sold it though

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...cs/DF03-02.jpg

I plan on starting it today.

Well i started the build today.Everything was going great i got the rearend done buit the chassis mounted the rearend.Starting to look great.So i started on the front gearbox(this is when things go bad)I started on the front diff I have it all ready to go.I start to thread the bolt in throught the diff into the lock nut.When its strips the plastic holder the nut sits in.:cry:
So now iam like shit i cant get it to tighten and i can't get to loosen back up to take it apart.So iam sitting just flaming mad.I take a break and get on the net to start looking for parts.Haveing a hard time finding the stock screw kits for this buggy.Not sure what iam going to do there.Anyway back ti the buggy so i go back out looking at the diff think what iam going to have to do to get this apart first thing that comes to mind is iam going to have to dremel my hub off the one side.(i really don't want to do that)To make a long story shory i ended up putting some tire glue down the hub and glue the plastic to the side and was able to get the nut and bolt out.Now i have to still find some parts.I guess it all happens for a reason Now iam going to go ahead and order the front oneway and some other goodies this weeks.:thumbsup:

DCM, a few question about your DF-03:

1) Did you break any parts while you had that car? If so, which parts did you break the most?

2) How did you protect the chassis from nasty scratches? Did you use a chassis tape like the one from 3M?

3) How did you thread the antenna through the that antenna holder? The slot in that holder seems too narrow and it seems to cut into the insulator of the antenna, was thinking about getting another after-market antenna holder (like a duratrax one or something)...

4) What was the advantage of turning the shocks the other way? I know that the stock rear arms has the extra set of mounting holes in the rear for some strange reason, what would be the best reason for doing so?

5) Final question, did you notice that the center drive shaft rubbed against the top deck of that chassis? I'm thinking about breaking in the car with a dummy motor on my motor-break-in function of my charger and just let it wear down before taking it to the track...

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Animal, one thing to also take caution is to make sure you have the "rack" portion of the steering rack in the right direction. I had it flipped the other way around, which meant it looked more like a "n" when the nose is pointing upwards from the top view instead of looking like a "u". This caused my steering to be SEVERELY limited and I was dumbfounded for hours trying to figure out why this car had such a limited steering :blush:

After fixing this, I get full travel, up until it hits the center mounting nub of the lower gear box. People have shaved that down to get more steering travel, but I'm using an aluminum one so I'll have to mill it out...

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Here are some Preliminary pics of my DF-03MS. Will list all the hop-up and upgrades after it's finished. I'm REALLY falling in love with the chassis type, the DF-03, the front kickup is fantastic for a 4WD! The layout seems like it was born out of a 2WD vehicle...

http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms24.jpg
http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms25.jpg
http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms26.jpg
http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms28.jpg
http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms29.jpg

DCM, a few question about your DF-03:

1) Did you break any parts while you had that car? If so, which parts did you break the most?

I didn't break much, but then I didn't run it much either, the spares weren't available much, and that stopped me really running it.

2) How did you protect the chassis from nasty scratches? Did you use a chassis tape like the one from 3M?

I didn't, but you could use the Associated Chassis protection sheet?

3) How did you thread the antenna through the that antenna holder? The slot in that holder seems too narrow and it seems to cut into the insulator of the antenna, was thinking about getting another after-market antenna holder (like a duratrax one or something)...

I honestly can't remember, but don't seem to of had a problem with them in the past..

4) What was the advantage of turning the shocks the other way? I know that the stock rear arms has the extra set of mounting holes in the rear for some strange reason, what would be the best reason for doing so?

I did that, from memory, so I didn't have to have a two piece rear shock tower, so I made a single piece tower and mounted the shocks off the rear.

5) Final question, did you notice that the center drive shaft rubbed against the top deck of that chassis? I'm thinking about breaking in the car with a dummy motor on my motor-break-in function of my charger and just let it wear down before taking it to the track...

I did lots of trimming and stuff on the car, and yes, it is worth bedding the car in on a motor

Animal, you can try some of the diff rebuild kit for Tamiya's other cars. Just make sure you have a 2x25mm partially threaded bolt and the T-Nut...

DCM, thanks for the info. I'm a little wary of running this car due to the lack of parts support... I wish the rear gear box, moving parts such as the diffs, were stocked at some hobby store out there... Maybe buying a cheap dark impact kit would be the way to go with getting spare parts (but what an ugly way to get spare parts)...

Are there any sway bar/anti-roll bar kit for this car? There's obvious provisions for them looking at the front and rear gear box. If not, is there a kit meant for another car fit this car?

Animal, try ordering it direct if you can't find the parts at your local hobby shop:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rcp...s&kit_id=49496

Their prices aren't outrageous, will save you from buying a whole new kit for parts...

Well i think i finally.Got the front diff worked out.I ended up going to a couple of shops and found parts from AE and Losi to make it work.I was going to order it through are shop but had a hell of a time finding what i needed.So i went ahead and ordered 2 more df-03ms kits just to make sure i have some parts.Anyway i plan on getting back to it this week.:thumbsup: