I've got mine in the middle position which certainly would increase the angle of the 'flip' [Andy technical term Wikipedia:lol:]

I'm also using a Savox 1258.

Hmm, i've build 1000'th of diffs, but with this one i'm puzzled. The nut with the plastic that goes into the outdrive doesn't go deep enough, there's no room for the dog bone. I've tighten the screw until the spring is compressed.

Starting to get the turnbuckles sorted :) lots and lots of grease and so forth

Mmmm.

I've made mine better be having the servo angled away from the problem side, means I have different length turnbuckles at each side to compensate / align the front wheels, but it stops the servo horn locking up as it was over rotating to gain maximum lock on one side.

I still get some 'flip' :) on maximum lock with the turnbuckles though, but it isn't sticking now...

Does anybody have a setup sheet for rear motor setup on dirt ?

Do you have any advice about RM3 or RM4 configuration ?

Guys, im having trouble with the diff.
The spring seems too big, as the cap is halfway up on the outdrive.
The and if i got any tighter on the diff its going to strip!
Any ideas?


http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=4453

I just posted about the issue, i have the same problem. I opened the second kit and build that diff, that worked better. I have no idea what's wrong with the first diff :confused: I have to take it out and have a look

Mine looks very similar and thought that the drive shaft won't have enough room to move....... But there is vertically no movement in the driveshaft in the diff half :)

I had this. Diff was slipper so just tightened it down further and no probs

Mine is the same also, not liking the ball diff at all tbh! Goin to run it tomorrow and see what happens!

Im down as tight as possible, its going to strip the diff if i go any more.
Does the bold need to be all the way down on the outdrive?

The car is designed to have minimal drive shaft plunge, so it should be ok.

Mine looks like that too but its set right.

The diff gear is not slipping when turned and both outdrives are held solid.

I was also worried that the diff nut was not at the bottom of the shaft when fully tight. But, this is probably just the design. Anyway, I ran it today on the track and it worked fine. After 20 min run I tried to tighten the diiff further and it was still rock solid - did the usual and backed off 1/8th of a turn.

Burs or tight spots maybe?

Site picture show the nut all the way in.

if the outdrive is blocked then the wheel wont be straight when shafts are level!
i think theres something actually wrong as to why its going all the way in

I got my kit on Wednesday and built it for a shakedown run at SHRCCC indoor on Thursday night.

Had the same issues as other people on this thread, but nothing to major.

I moved my ball joints on the steering drag link to the rear and set the EPA lower to stop the steering going over centre and jamming. Not ideal I know but it worked, and I was definatly not lacking in steering.

Regarding the diff, I set it the same as other diffs, fully tightened and backed off 1/8", this was fine and didn't think it an issue. To note, the ears on the nylon nut did not go all the way down to the end of the diff out drive, I tightened it up by feel, and when the suspensions goes up the drive shaft has the absolute minimal movement so it will not be in contact with the nut.

My issue has been with the rear shocks. With the shock fully compressed the piston protrudes past the damper body by 2/3 its hight. This doesnt seem right, but not noticeable on the bench or the track. Has any body else noticed this?

To add, Im running SMC lipo's that are 24mm tall, and the battery strap didnt secure this, in fact it was quite a long way off with refrence to the strap locater at the rear. With the lipo blocks fitted it also had 5mm movement fore and aft. I have addressed this with foam but it would have been good to have the option in the kit.

When I built my B4 there was an explination to the technical steps, damper filling and bleeding, starting set up on the diff and slipper and a base set up (albeit for US dirt tracks), while not essential to experienced racers it would have been good to have it in the manual, and yes I know there is an online resource:)

The car ran extremly well though, and changed some things and it should be good to race next week. On the whole a very good kit and should be an excellent car.

Ive now turned my servo 180 degrees so the wire comes out on the right (if you're looking at the front). You have to swap the arms on the steering rack over, but since I can't see them being sided I don't think there will be an issue.

Speedo is now wired up with very short wires. I recon I could fit 2 rs pro's down 1 side lol

Im really hoping the car goes better than it puts together!! :thumbdown:
Having a nightmare!!

others are saying its the best kit they have put together.

I've built better and I've built worse.

Heard great things about it at the local clubs.

Mines a few weeks away from running. So it'll sit on the shell until I decide what electrics I want to use etc.