Built as per kit, didn't need the extra shims.

James.

1. Yes
2. As instructions.
3. Std ones are fine, I've broken Ti ones but never these latest kit ones.
4. Sorry I'm no help on this one.

Regards,
James.

Just thought I'd have a change and this is what happen when you walk into Pbm for tyres and there is a shiny new box saying "buy me":lol:

I'm keeping the TM2 v1 and If I dont like it I can sell it and get a new TM2 :thumbsup:.

The build quality of the KF2 is amazing and very well engineered, I just hope the parts are as robust. My only issue it the dremeling. I'm keen to see how it goes on Wed....

4) SVR/KR CVD driveshafts fit the KF2 fine, just as they do the KF.

Thanks for the answers guys

Here you go.

I run a weight under my shorty and my lrp are slightly swollen so I've had to dremel quite a lot!

Crikey, I was going to run shortys but not sure I want to massacre my chassis. Saddles it may have to be!

It's only the plastic side rail and hardly a massacre.

Here's a picture of mine built, I may need to trim more off the side rail as the shorty is still a bit tight.

What shock oil have people used?

I've put the kit shock oil in the rear (it doesn't look or feel like 35WT) and 37.5WT in the front.

I'm running core oils,

Low grip 450/350 rear.
High grip 550/450 rear.

James.

I ran the car (indoor carpet) for the first time last night and I have to say the car felt good, a bit edgy and very direct. It felt easier to drive the harder I pushed – This is good

Things I changed from kit:

30 wt / 350 in the rear shock 37.5 / 450 in the front
Short wheel base
Rear Shock on the outer hole on the wish bone

However, I did suffer from what we call at my club as the ‘Schumacher curse’. This is the third car I’ve built but the first car to fall apart. It may have been me being a gentleman sausage, but I have now brought some industrial strength lock tight LOL.

So for people who have never built a Schumacher before remember; lock tight, lock tight, lock tight……

Question – Can’t get the ride height on the rear any lower then 20mm?

You need the alloy spring seats to get rear ride height bellow 20mm.
Not ideal I know but it's how the team do it!

If you're going to use some threadlocker don't go to mad with it. If it's Loctite the second number in the three digit product code will tell you how strong it is, if it's 221 or 222 this is low strength, if it's 24 something this is medium and more than you'll ever need on an RC model, if it's 27 something then let's just call it permanent fixture and you'll need heat to release it.

I personally use 248 which comes in a nice Pritt Stick type applicator which makes it much easier to control how much you apply. You can get it from Halfords.

Thanks for the advice :thumbsup:

There are a lot of variables that go into this. I've run mine down to 17mm with std shock cups, but I run zero rebound in the dampers. I'm also on soft springs which are going to sag a bit more.

With the V2 alloy gearbox uppers you can also modify the shock tower height which affects the min ride height.

Wingers

I have built several Schumachers and have never used thread lock on any of them and never had a part fall over either, The red stuff they put in the kit is super strong so be warned if you want to get things a part in a rush.

The blue stuff from loctite is a much softer version so try that if you must, better to just keep things tight especially after a crash as this stretches the screws which then become lose.

:eh?:

With the KF you could run with the rear suspension in either low or high position or a mixture of the two with the alloy blocks, will we be able to shim the suspension hangers to achieve this? And where is the KF2 stock setting compared to the KF's high and low positions?

Strange your if findings, I'm not sure what the stuff is in the Schumacher bottles but as a general rule of thumb for threadlock red is low strength (221 etc) blue is medium (243 etc) and green is high strength (270).