If you do that i think Martin might crush it with his twin detonator:D

Crickey, leave a thread alone for a few minutes and...

From my selfish personal perspective the rules talked about sound good, but how about scale shells encouraged but not necessarily enforced? Speaking entirely selfishly as pointed out earlier I do have that green touring shell that was sent by mistake when I ordered a red AE86 shell. It hasn't got any cracks and I would hate to have to put it away. Ideally I'd like to get some good use out of it before swapping for my as yet unpainted Camaro shell which is far more scale looking.

As for the other rules I agree with the point made about silvercan or brushless equivalent. It should be both, in a class that's supposed to be budget people shouldn't be forced to go out and buy a tonne of new kit. The Blackfoot example given in jest is amusingly good in my opinion, if someone turns up with a Black Foot or a Traxxas Grave Digger I see no reason for me to object. Martin did race that Twin Detonator and caused no carnage... I don't know about others, but I like the extreme variety, it isn't often that you see a twin motor monster truck go against an m-chassis, a Mardave and an F104. That's part of what makes Clubman cool.

Let's be honest, so far the class has been incredibly freaking close. Closer than classes that have stricter rules. So my main thought going into the Monday meeting is that we should try and make sure we don't go over the top introducing too many rules for Clubman to solve a problem that doesn't exist just because of what was said on Oople once.

PS: To prove that point I'll happily do a round of off road and I am pretty sure that driving my fastest I'll still be 3 to 4 laps slower that the top guys and my buggy isn't slow. When I didn't race Clubman I used to be close to Martin and Chris, and guess what... In Clubman I am also close to Martin and Chris. It isn't the cars...

Wasn't saying no silver can in f1 but allow 21.5 as well I would rather have the slower rpm but have the brakes and torque .... But happy to stay silver can .. At least with brushless you know it is what it is unlike silver can with peeled stickers :o

Skidd.

Good point :) I hate the no torque feel of silvercans too, it didn't seem to matter too much in the Mardave though... And it still got hot as hell.

Torque was exactly what the F103 was lacking on friday

Try the HPI 20T as suggested by TIC Racing. :) ... I know it'll be quicker than the silvercans, but not much more and I reckon there will be a lot less heat issues and they will last lots longer. I don't want ppl to get accused of cheating though.

I suggested the HPI 20T before as it seemed cheaper and easier overall.

In all honesty I had a torque tuned in my F104, on the large (slow) spur and had to run at 80 percent EPA because on the straight it was too fast ... The 21.5 is BRCA std for F1 ... and in this instance they got it right :yawn:

Scott aka Skidd on predictive text ...:thumbsup:

Off topic, but my tablet auto-corrects Tamiya to Taliban. That could lead to SOOOooooooooooo many problems.

In all honesty I had a torque tuned in my F104, on the large (slow) spur and had to run at 80 percent EPA because on the straight it was too fast ... The 21.5 is BRCA std for F1 ... and in this instance they got it right :yawn:

Scott aka Skidd on predictive text ...:thumbsup:

OK, not my Dave uses the same batts as my TL01. I can race both vehicles easily. Would be nice to compare performance side by side. Hopefully there will be good grip from round 1 now that the carpet has been hoovered.

Lee was using a Saturn 27T - which I also have (£1 BNIB!!!!!!) so might try that, although if everybody is running silver can then lack of torque won't be an issue as we will all be in the same boat.

Yeah, the crappy, gutless, small displacement 4 pot boat that nobody ever wants to board :(

V8!

PS: And a leaky radiator to boot....

PPS: Being honest I didn't find the silvercan gutless in the mardave, it was a lil more punchy than the fan can with a lil less top speed. Performance was great in fact... However... it cooked itself. Lap times were good too! Maybe it is because I don't have a heat sink nor a fan installed.

Well that took some reading!
The rules are on the website!, if you are within the set rules what is the problem.

We were within the rules but called cheats!
That's the problem.

I thought a line had been drawn under all this, but I have copied this straight from the club website and these were also included in the handouts that were given on 3rd Jan:

Clubman:
Chassis: Primarily Mini but “moderately paced” touring cars, F1s and Mardave Mini-Stox welcome.
Bodyshell: Any
Motor: Any but 10t (19t brushed) or slower preferred. Silver can only for F1 or other direct drive cars
Tyres: Any type of foam or rubber tyre
Electronics: Maximum of 7.2v Nimh/Nicad Batteries - Maximum of nominal 7.4v Lipo Batteries only.

So if you operate within these, you are not a cheat.
We have a meeting tonight and what was posted on this forum will be discussed. If there are any rule changes for next series, we will put them on the website, Oople and Facebook

oh :( So my 4S castle powered Mardave is not legal? :( :( :(

Anyway, my Mardave is staying the same as it was last Friday other than going lipo as those old batts left me stranded.

If those 4 cells are Nimhs then you will be fine, if they hold their charge:p:p

Superstox front end,mardave rear end with home made chassis,

Does direct drive mean solid rear axle? If so I had a diff and a 13.5

Foam tires,

7.4v

Was I outside the rules?

Chassis?: Fine
Direct-drive?: spur gear was on rear axle so yes
Tyres: Fine
7.4v: Fine

Outside rules: technically "yes". If you want to argue the point that it wasn't direct drive because of the diff then perhaps we need to define "direct drive" or use another appropriate term, but basically all cars with the spur on the rear axle should be silver can only if we are to follow these rules.

Lower voltage? Nah!