Ahh that explains why I could see them on Tebo's car and much better for the wallet too!

Aah I run the brackets so you're saying that I should increase the rear track?

Fabs, yes you should. I'm trying to find somewhere with them in stock to get them on my car for that exact reason .... Then I can run full FS spec as I have lots of RB5 bits floating around.

If I do get them I will post up what combination will give what geometry.

Sorry for the delay but here we go:-
FRONT:- Kit Silver springs
40 wtg AE oil
3b pistons
4mm spacer to reduce droop
camber link- inside hole on the inner and inner on hub with 4mm washer on outer ball stud, 0mm on inner.
1 way diff.
hub washers standard.
shock positions- middle on tower and middle on wishbone.

REAR:- yellow springs
35 wtg AE oil
3b pistons
camber link- inner hole on the inner and inner on the hub. 2mm washer under inner ball sud and 0mm on outer.
short wheel base.
shock positions- middle on tower and inner on wishbone.

Cells Back.

No Dam on wing 7 degrees.

Just make sure you have the rear shocks infront of the rear tower as another FS driver put them to the rear. Cough cough Fab. lol

Ride height front 25mm and rear 24mm, both chassic not bumpers.

is that an indoor carpet setup?

I got to run the FS for the first time on Sunday at Coventry (bumpy astro) and I must say I am very impressed. The car got better with each change but I was making more mistakes as the day went on (the night before was my high school reunion)


FRONT:- Silver #70 springs
40 wt AE oil
2c pistons
camber link- outside hole on the inner and outer on hub with 3mm washer on outer ball stud, 0mm on inner.
diff (not 1-way, not tried that yet but since I'm trying to calm the front down I probably won't for a while)
hub washers standard.
shock positions- middle on tower and middle on wishbone
kit 1mm anti-roll bar

REAR:- blue #68 springs
35 wt AE oil
2b pistons
camber link- mid hole on the inner and outer on the hub. 2mm washer under inner ball sud and 0mm on outer.
long wheel base.
shock positions- middle on tower and inner on wishbone.
kit 1.2mm anti-roll bar

Cells forward.

No Dam on wing 7 degrees.


Ride height front shafts just under level and rear shafts level



This set-up was giving me more front end bite than you can imagine, the car was commented on as "twitchy" by a couple of people watching it earlier in the day but towards the end was a lot calmer!

I'll be starting from the same set-up at Kidderminster and will let you know what changes I make.

This is a indoor running track. Rubber sort of thing. Little bits of carpet and it is very grippy carpet.

Is it too late to say I did it on purpose? :blush:

Fab,

I'll be trying mine behind the tower for the next meeting too. For me it's where shocks should be and I've said that many times before.

This car is freaking awesome isn't it!!!!

How is the handling compared to the sp? I hope the steering and control is as good as the sp, it just outperform the b44 any day :wub

Everything you loved about the SP is still there ..... but with extra helpings!

I was REALLY suprised on it's first run with guestimate settings it was good enough to compete with anything else on the track and easily as quick as my SP with over a year of set-up development on it!

As the day went on it just got better and better with every tweek, try the set-up I posted above as a starting point.

This thing steers so well and is really good over the jumps. I let the car down by going racing on 3 hours sleep (night before was only 4 too) due to other comitments but it was clear that I was failing the car not the other way around.

Would love to see somebody who is at the top of the game drive this car, maybe Woody can put it in every A for us K' fans this year, certainly the speed is in the car!

Just to let you all know I have just tried the original length rear springs on the car and to get anywhere near the ride height you'll be after you'll need Losi lower spring platforms.

I have used the thin plastic upper spring platforms (unused parts from the plastic shock parts mouldings) and AE clip on spacers and it works fine like that.

If anybody knows where I can get shorter length rear silver #70 springs please let me know.
#72s were a little too much and #68s did the job but maybe a bit too little.

I'm quite surprised at that, since I'm pretty sure all my springs are of the long type and I haven't got an issue with ride height.

Fabs, feel free to tell everybody that you did it on purpose, I think it was an inspired decission!

Here is my reasoning .......

I ran the SP all last year (from Oct 07 actually) and NEVER broke a rear shock tower even though I was using the alloy tower mounts. Since I've gone to the FS I've broken a rear tower at every track I've been to, at first I thought it was just Coventry's big double jump but I broke one at Kiddy too, and a few other places including an indoor track!

Here is what I think is happening. With the shocks mounted to the front of the rear tower they dig in if the car turns over and due to the canterlever effect of the shock being spaced off the tower excerts a large bending moment on the tower which has no choice but to fail at the change in section for the mount recess.
Due to the amazing quality of Kyosho's mouldings the towers survive to let you finish the run, just with a car that feels a little reluctant to change direction towards the opposite side to the breakage as the tower flexes. You can feel when the tower has cracked but at least you CAN finish the run.

By mounting the shocks on the rear of the tower the rounded edge of the moulding is all that contacts the ground and that doesn't dig in like the shock cap does thus doesn't load the tower in the same way so it survives to fight another day.


To prove this point I took the car to a local BMX track and deliberately threw the car off the jumps badly and sure enough after a couple of minutes I cracked a tower. Fitted the new tower and mounted the shocks on the back of the tower & wishbones and no matter what I did I couldn't break a tower!!! Ok I've wrecked both wing mounts, a front tower and a wishbone testing this out but if I have found a way of keeping the car in one piece for a full season of normal use without having to replace any major parts as was the case last year with the SP I'm happy. :thumbsup:

LAW38
 

Just to let anyone know who might want to upgarde an old lazer rather than splashing out on a full FS.

We managed to get a few LAW38 back in stock. This is the FS conversion set.

Just contact your local model shop if you want to order one.

Just found out, to all of you who have a converted FS from an SP kit out there, the rear hubs provided with the SP are different to the ones on the FS kits and RB5 workds kit.

The rear hubs you want are UM519 and will provide a lot more rear end grip, especially on low grip surfaces.

I posted that info in post #94 in this thread ...... ;)

Fabs and I have been chatting about some other mods to this car to help dial it into the UK surfaces .... watch this space!!!!!

Yes but I had not realised the ones that came with the SP were different...

Just felt the need to confirm whatWoody has said previously about the one-way diff in the FS. I actually swapped between a true diff and one-way diff on Sunday with no set-up changes at all. I have never come across a car where you could do this before without upsetting it baddly. The change in feel was certainly no greater than you would have got on most cars by fitting / removing a centre shaft one way.

This is a really useful tuning aid and I am gald I got talked into trying it now.

Basically if you at a track that a one way would be helpful on then slot it in, if not then I intend to run a true diff.


Hell I'm loving this car!!!!