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Tamiya
(http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=22)
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Not sure what ball studs the DB01R comes with - but the flagship TRF511 comes with cheap almost-comedy quality ball studs that really need replacing. The DB01 ones were ok - as long as they aren't those nasty bright silver ones then they'll be fine. The ball cups work ok if you never pop then on and off - the more you do, the quicker they die basically. They get sloppy quickly from repeated assembly. Tamiya have some grey ball cups on the way - but not available yet. Supposed to be better. On my 501X I used Hot Bodies ball studs (from the D4) and Losi ball cups. The Hot Bodies ball studs are metric (so fit the Tamiyas) but use a smaller imperial sized ball cup like the losi. Use the plastic wing mounts - they flex for a reason. Alloy is a really bad idea. I've never broken one. The front tower on the db01 I think is about as indestructable as you'd want tbh - but the Atomic stuff is nice and I'd definitely consider the rear tower. The alloy steering stuff - pretty worthless in my opinion. It looks great but doesn't really add anything performance wise. The standard hubs are pretty strong to be honest - I think I broke two hub carriers on the front of my Tamiyas over the years (501X, 511, dbo1) and a couple of steering knuckles. The rear hub I never broke. I personally prefer them plastic. The main upgrade on the DB01r would have to be full-metal differential halves instead of the half plastic items carried over from the original db01 (as far as I know anyway). I'd get those ahead of any of the other things you're considering. |
Jimmy, thanks for the informative reply, i was thinking D4 or tc5 for ballstuds, did u replace the "ball connector nuts" with normal ball studs? im glad losi ball cups will fit
i'll steer clear of all the aluminium stuff, it will be heavier than the plastic anyway, im trying to get the car lighter Agreed, the 501x out drives are a definate on the list, though in the interests of keeping the drive train lighter for 17.5 racing, i'm actually going to run ta05 diffs so i can run plastic out drives with the keyed diff rings, the ta05 layshaft has already been fitted, but for the end of year enduro the metal outdrives will be going in |
Hey, I'm not sure what you mean by ball connector nuts?
My DB01 was under 2WD weight with a 3600mah lipo - some cars are a bit sketchy without some weight in there, but the DB01 was very good. Ah, didn't see you were running limited motor class - the stock ones would probably hold up to that anyway to be honest - but I'd not rely on them with anything like a 6.5-7.5 or faster motor. I'd also not use the plastic outdrives for anything quicker. Quick question - are you sure they'll fit? Touring car outdrives aren't as long so you might not be able to get much suspension droop (or any)? I replaced a few non-essential screws with aluminium ones which weigh nothing. But you need to make sure the holes are nice and greased and run a normal screw in and out a few times to loosen them a little. I used the alloy screws to hold on all three top covers. Don't use them on anything else though. |
my DB01, with essential alloy parts (suspension holders), needs weight to make the minimum weight limit.
As for the TA05 diff outdrives, I really wouldn't bother, as with any loading on them, you will be melting them, you would be far better off chucking the 501X outdrives in there, and just aim at keeping the weight down. In the end, to finish first, first you must finish!! |
the nut connector is that thing like a ballstud, but doesnt have its own threaded shaft, it gets screwed into from the other side, part number 19808012 is what im talking about.
what i dont get is why its said that ta05 outdrives would melt, surely the loading going through a touring cars drivetrain would exceed that of an off roader, ive done 15 runs with the standard db01 plastic outdrives, any i'll test it all, i have 2 months until the state championship starts, i'll get the 501x outdrives, maybe the potential unreliability isnt worth a few grams saved in the drive train What im intrigued about is how ur cars end up so light, can you tell me what they are actually weighing in at? mine is 1700g which i think is 3.75 pounds in ur language, i want to get it down to 3.58 |
Mine was I think ~1473g from what I remember.
Tyres are a big part of it - we use Schumacher tyres which are light - the Tamiya kit tyres if thats what you have to use also, are a lot heavier. Touring cars don't get anything like the diff abuse that an offroader gets I imagine - get hung up on a pipe and gun the throttle with one wheel spinning - it'll give the diff a real work out. Not to mention all the hard landings under power. |
nevermind fusionhobbies having bodies in stock... they don't display on their site that they're out, but a week after placing my order and after asking why my order hasn't shipped yet, they email me that they're out of Baldre bodies..
Seems like i'll have my car this week, but no body.. :( anyone know a store (preferably Europe or US) that still carry some? |
In my TA05, with a 10.5, I have melted the High Precision diff halves... and they won't take the wide range of driveshaft angle, either.
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1473g? wow thats a major difference, i weighed mine with blockheads on the front, switches on the rear and losi rims all round, i suppose i have heavy electrics, full size jr servo, losi speedy, and im running a big lep heatsink, im getting a tekin rs for it and i'll probaly get a low profile servo thats lighter than my jr
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Baldre bodies
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they do have a durga, but I don't like the durga.
oh well, better an ugly body shell, than no body shell. |
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So far the only thing that was hurt is the part of the spoiler where it's mounted. Not sure if i'll keep using it though. I got both atomic carbon towers basicly cause i wanted the rear one and it looks nicer with both on instead of just the rear. Also got the alloy steering seems to move around a bit less then the plastic ones. But if its noticeble on the track i doubt it. I've had one problem with the rear hubs and that was a ballstud coming out. The thread was basicly gone from the hub but Tamiya fixed that for the DB-01R by using a screw from the back and a nut ballcup. Still doubting if i'll get the alloy ones from the trf or just fix it like above. |
Can anybody tell me what sort of spacers I will need on the control arm shafts when switching to the metal suspension balls? I'm noticing the metal balls are considerably longer than the plastic kit balls. I'm guessing this is gonna alter my wheelbase, and wheelbase adjustment range... :bored:
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Hey Carno
Thanks for the feedback, lol and i agree, if you're going to get one atomic carbon shock tower, u might aswell get both so it matches. You're right about the rear hub ball stud on the db01r, it has the screw from the back into the nut ballcup, if i upgrade the ball studs, i'll get ones with long threads and put a nut on the other side Jimmy Re: the touring car out drives, i saw a photo in one of the threads of a durga with the precision out drives in the front diff, and after pm'ing him, he said he hadnt had any dramas using them on the front end and he was running 8.5. i'll check out the ta05 outdrives tonight, but on first glance i didnt see any real difference, i can only try it, i have 2 months to test it all out, if they melt/fall apart, at least i'll know, and if they work, it should help make the car a little bit faster. This is all tamiyas fault anyway, why couldnt they make the big diff rings keyed like the small ones are, lol |
Tamiya REALLY need to fix this body situation. It's ridiculous!
FYI - the Baldre body has been discontinued so forget about that. Even in Japan the Durga shell is only available thru special order. Shops do not stock it! Crazy. |
lol what are we gonna have to do scotty, buy up Baldre kits just to get the bodies out of them or something, lol
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I noticed a tiny reduction in arm play after installing mine with the same kit spacers. Makes the rear arms quite tight with the provided 1mm & 2mm spacers on the shaft. I would like to switch out the 1mm spacer with a .7mm one (same ones from the motor mounting srews) with a .2mm shim on top of that. I think that would make the rear arms perfect. Front end is just perfect with the two .02mm shims used in the standard kit. Reduces just enough play to be tight, but allow movement. I'm sure after I swtich to alloy suspension mounts, everything will change... Now Tamiya needs to make 2.6mm ID shims for outer hinge pins... |
I think they do, check out a Tamiya stockist that specialise in TC cars, you might find them.
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It would make it hard for HobbyCo or Tamiya to claim loss of sales for something they don't sell! (Mind you I bet that wouldn't stop HobbyCo) |
I don't think Tamiya actually said anything, I think that was a wholly Hobby Co thing... :(
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Regarding the outdrive issue - I used the TA05 plastic outdrives on both my 501X and DB01 for several months without issues - this was with both an 11T brushed and 8.5 brsuhless motor.
Track surface was a mixture of about 60% dirt and 40% astroturf...with lots of big jumps. Considering how cheap these outdrives are...if you used 2 or 3 sets a season I think that would be perfectly reasonable considering the weight saving. However, I did only use them in the front...I dont think they'd last long at all in the rear ;) |
Well doesn't that mean you could use the TA05 alloy ones then (with the plastic shoes)?
Also, I don't understand how the TA05 outdrives would benefit. You still need to use the large diff rings to work with the 37T pulleys, and they are not keyed. Does that mean you've also switched to the 36T pulleys? |
good stock buggy?
do you find the shaft drive cars to be at an advantage over the db-01, particularly in stock class?
seems to be more guys going back to shaft cars in touring cars stock class, for the more instant power delivery. |
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yes it does mean you can run the ta05 alloy outdrives with the shoes, but they are expensive, and i think they'd chew out quicker than plastic ones, with the precision outdrives you get the outdrive saver ring, which helps prevent the outdrive being spread apart, which would be the main cause of failure in the stresses in off road, as i say, i'll put it to the test and see what happens, im only running 17.5 and have run losi plastic/composite outdrives in my cars and only had one failure in 6 years of running |
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but I think with the shaft v's belt, its not as important in off road, as there is limited traction available. |
agreed, traction is the limiting factor, so far, i have found the db01 to put its power down quite well, it could be a comination of a good setup and the cars inherent design, but it puts its power down coming out of corners better than my xx4, xxx4 or x5 ever did, where i would normally be counter steering off corners to stop the rear end coming around on those cars, the db01 just pulls straight and hard out of the corner
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not for stock however, there are some people who believe shaft touring cars are better for stock spec class's as they give quicker throttle response, apparently. |
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The 501X outdrives can be had for $17.18 shipped. The 3-racing DB01 outdrives can be had for $15.81 shipped. Prices come from ebay or shopping.rcmodel.hk... So are the diff & bulkhead widths the same for the TA05 and DB01 diffs? Does it require any additional shimming to fit TA05 diffs? |
Hey There
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Hey Guys,
New DB-01 owner here. I have a quick query for you, someone out there may have experienced it before. I have noticed a slight throbbing in the drive of my DB-01. Still fairly stock except for a slipper clutch. When I take the centre diff cover off I can see that the Spur gear is slightly wobbling, which is what is causing the throbbing sound. Imagine the hole for the shaft being slightly off centre, and so the spur moves ever-so-slightly to and from the pinion. Are the 91T spur gears fairly reliable? I have taken the slipper apart and tried to make sure that is is all together snug and square. Are the 3racing Delrin's any better? and... Do the 3racing aluminium diff joints compare to the Tamiya 501's? Thanks in advance. |
Old problem with the Tamiya Spurs - 91t is better, never used the 3-racing but heard they arent brilliant, but just use the associated 87t for a throbbing-free experience.... :lol:
Again never tried the 3-racing ally diffs, but the Tamiya's are great and last very well, and you should be able to pick them up for not much more that the 3-racings if you shop around. |
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I've been running the 3racing diff joints and they seem good. Not sure what material they are, they are sturdy enough.
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Just painted my body shell, not so happy with the result.
The masking tape I used wasn't that good so some paint got under. And anyone else ever used Tamiya Translucent paints? Maybe the weather conditions weren't that excellent (cold) but that paint was like water, thin layers and still alot of leaks. Oh well, the DB-01R drives super, but maybe I need to tighten my diffs a bit more. |
Fat, avoid the 3Racing spur gears. The slipper pads do NOT fit in the spur well at all. Stick with Tamiya or Associated spur gears.
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Spur gears
Aaron, thanks mate. Will pick up another TA one when I can.
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@ buggyboy (or anyone else who knows!)
What carbon battery strap is that? I'm itching to get rid of the plastic piece of crap that comes in the kit! FINALLY have some Durga shells so will get to hit the track with mine soon! Scotty P. |
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