Wow!!! That explains a whole lot. I took it out for a test with the 5700 in it, and I couldn't figure out why it seemed like if I grabbed the throttle for all it was worth, the rear would recieve no power. well time to tear it apart again

just make sure you keep the rear diff properly adjusted and lubed!

Run a strip of paper between the pinion and the spur when you mesh the gears - then bolt the motor in place (the spur should stay put - just make sure it is fully seated in it's slot). The paper will ensure that a tiny gap is left between the gears and result is an excellent mesh. Remove the paper once everything is tightened down..

A tiny gap needs to remain between the gears, otherwise the teeth on the spur gear will get chewed up by the pinion. with a proper mesh, the spur gear will always remain in mint condition.

I usually find that the spur is slightly out-of-round or off-centre, so I rotate the spur until I find the spot that is tightest against the pinion and use that as the point to set the mesh. The pinion and spur should be very close together at this point but still have the teeniest bit of play between them (or use the paper method at this point).

Ouchies...now we pin pointed his problem. Ceramic grease is a big no, no...lol Tamiya makes a big tube of Diff Lube, I bought some recently, that is the stuff he needs. This stuff is nice because it has an applicator tip for easy install. You get a small tube with the kit, and it's just enough for 1 use.

For this motor: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...8.5/index.html
Which of the supplied pinion gears should I use?
Also, can you just use the velcro to attach the body, or must you use the snap-pins too?!
Thanks!

Could anyone kindly let me know if the Associated (B44) front hex wheel adapters work on the DB01 as well as the rear axle blue spacer? I assume the rear body wing from the B44 works for the DB01, but if anyone knows first hand i would greatly appreciate it. I will provide the links for the parts that I'm referring to.... Thanks Guys.

Front hex adapters-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9750&category=3010.b44xx

Rear axle spacers-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9608&category=3010.b44xx

Rear wing/spoiler-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9772&category=3010.b44xx

One last question about parts fitment. I went ahead and ordered the TRF 501X Rear Hubs/uprights(part# 51274) since the place I was ordering from was out of the stock DB01 rear Hubs/uprights (Part#51310)
They look to be the same except for the material on the TRF version, which looks to be made out of the carbon reinforced plastic as opposed to the DB01's. Well I hope the answer to my question is 'YES' considering that the mounting holes on my hubs are stripped like a bitch. I will be utilizing some of my blue loctite for these new hubs that's for sure. Thanks for any input as usual :p

If you are running a Durga shell I've found that the gaps are just too large to use Velcro as the shell and chassis only touch at a few small points. If you use the supplied foam rubber blocks to bridge the gap and Velcro to that it gives a somewhat flexible fixing and mine always fell off so I've stuck to using the posts and some "big loop" pins off my M03 Mini to make it easier to get them on and off. I think it may be easier to Velcro a Baldre shell as it follows the chassis more closely but I've never actually tried that one yet.

I have the Baldre body, so will try without the posts (looks better!).
How about the pinion for that motor?
Thanks!

Bump: If anyone doesn't know the answer, it's cool!!!!:p

For this motor: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...8.5/index.html
Which of the supplied pinion gears should I use?
Also, can you just use the velcro to attach the body, or must you use the snap-pins too?!
Thanks!

You can use either one of the supplied pinions 17,23 if I call correctly. The 17 will give you more low end speed (acceleration but a lower top end. and the 23 gives u a higher top end speed, but slower acceleration. You can experiment with a range of pinions. I would go with the 6.5 motor rather than the 8.5, but that's just me. Are you new to the hobby? Also are you on a budget but looking for brushless equipment that's just as good as that Novak. Hit me up if you are. PM style. You can use velcro for the front part of the body (right up until where your suppose to attach the foam pieces on the sides of the body and then just use pins for the back. That's what I did.

Hey, good looking Baldre you got there brother. And yes, this is a great forum for information. I also wanted to say good luck over there in Afghanistan. Blow some heads off of those CIA trained terrorists for us. I was Army from 2001- 2005 so I know your situation. Hang in there and occupy yourself with the wonderful hobby of R/C in the mean time, but stay alert, aware, and ready yourself mentally for the worst situation that you can possibly think of and you'll be good. No picking the pot plants or opium either, ha ha JK. Enough preaching on my behalf, but good luck and god bless. Oh and when you come back, don't expect to get a job right away unless your re enlist or know someone that can hook you up. The Economy is in complete fucking shambles and it's only gonna get worse. The dollar is dead, so just be prepared for looking at a new type of currency in the years to come. Sorry to leave you on such a sour note, but I only speak the truth brother. Ya dig...:p

Has anyone found a major difference in space between the Durga and Baldre bodyshells? I've read in a few other places that the Bladre shell is actually a better fit for the DB-01 Chassis

Baldre shell has better air flow buy far...and better speedo and motor clearance

And looks better :p

Andy

Cheers for the reply Andy,

I agree, the Baldre looks so much nicer, I think I shall have to sort myself out a new shell, Not everly keen on the Durga shell myself.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSCF2543.jpg

This is my Durga, Not done much to it as of yet, but have some bits on the way to repair the damage from the last outing :lol: Suspension mounts I've found to be a real weak point.

I personally like the looks of the Durga shell, but like most body shells, a proper paint job can really spruce things up as with a cheesy looking paint job using some of the supplied decals, such as with the Baldre can be a real turn off. I must say that I've seen some really cool looking Baldre shells that stuck with a basic concept, using none of the supplied decals (maybe a few) and it was like day and night between the box art body for the Baldre. If I ever do replace the shell for my Durga, I will be going with the Baldre (What the hell is a damn Baldre anyways? Jeez Louise Tamiya!!, Lol.) but sticking with a simple scheme as mentioned, (maybe a nice White, with the use of black decals and clear windows of course.) I think this will bring out the real beauty of the dynamics used for this particular body, as opposed to the box art which literally makes me want to regergetate. LOL. There's a very nice looking pic of one somewhere in the photo section of Oople that tickled my fancy. It may have been Mr. Hupo's if I recall correctly.

the Baldre shell is a snug fit round the chassis, so if you are racing, or am concerned about dirt getting in, use it, if you are not, then choose the one you like!!

I am concerned with sand getting inside. Besides your info providing the assurance that the Baldre be a better fit than the Durga which I hreatly appreciate as always, do you know of ,or have u heard anything in regards to those little diff protectors that they sell now as an upgrade for the DB01 series? I only ask, because I would really like to keep the whole drive train(Diffs included) free of fine sand especially for this one spot that I love to go to, but have had to do way too much maintenance afterwards to make it even worth going back to for more rounds. Thanks.

Seal the holes
 

AJ Gee,

to stop sand or dirt from contaminating the inside of the DB01, don't forget to seal the two holes that lead to the lower motor mounting screw. One on the outside and one in the battery compartment close to the spur-slipper. BOTH!

Stef.

Well, a lot of bashing, a few months of sitting around a lot, some frantic races at the local dirt track (which made me break about $60 in hinge pins, a-arms, ball diffs, belts... even more than usual bashing breaks.. the 4.5 Novak motor REALLY likes to eat diffs and belts) and then a little longer sitting.

I just got around to taking it back out this weekend after some more new a-arms and hinge pins and a full rebuild to lube and clean everything. I shimmed a lot of stuff that was wiggly, too.

http://i50.tinypic.com/2z89u37.jpg

http://i48.tinypic.com/155p93o.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/fxwbnl.jpg

Doesn't look quite fresh and new anymore :)
I've got to pick up a Baldre body and my 4th set of tires.

Radio?
 

What radio do people recommend?
I was looking at the 2 channel Futaba: http://www.futaba-rc.com/radios/futk1200.html which I can get for US$110, but not sure if it is good enough for my DB01R!
Do I require the more expensive :( version: http://2.4gigahertz.com/systems/futk2021.html

Thanks!

Hi DB01 fans, i have read this whole thread and the one on rctech too over the last week or so (there were a few late nights) and ive picked up an amazing amount of info on this car, i just got a db01r and wanted to know as much about the car and what i can do to it.

Heres my plan, i'll be running 17.5, and i want the thing close to bullet proof, so im thinking i want to run basically ta05 diffs front and rear, using the precision out drives, 36T pulleys, and the keyed diff rings, the benefits will be lighter diffs, reliable because im not relying on glue to keep the rings in place and it gears the car taller internally to 2:1, downside is only a 6 ball diff as opposed to 12 standard, but i can live with that i think. i know lots of people have run glued rings and had no problems but some have had them come undone, i dont want that happening while im leading an A main, i'll get the TA05 battery strap too, i run 5000 lipos, so the strap will work better i think, also i plan to dremel flat the raised bits in the battery tray area of the chassis so the battery will sit as low as possible. i'll get the flourine coated pivot balls for the hinge pins. im a losi man, so ive already fitted losi shocks to it, which match the length of the shocks that came with the db01r, so it will just be a matter of sorting out a setup. i'll think about getting a centre one-way, i know a lot of people have said it transforms the car, i dont like front one ways, i rather have a diff in the front so thats a tuning option i'll keep in mind.

A couple of questions if anyone could please help me out

Has anyone tried putting a TA05 mainshaft into the db01, what i would like to do is run the ta05 main shaft, for the direct drive but then still be able to put the centre one way on and run an 18 tooth pulley for the rear, anyone know if the parts are compatible, i havent seen the touring car in the flesh but from the manual it looks like it should probably all work, i know slippers are handy but in 17.5 its not needed and the slipper shaft sticking out will get in the way of cooling

Cooling, has anyone got any good cooling solutions worked out for this car, i havnt test fitted the motor to see what sort of clearance there is between the motor and the body (Baldre) but if anyone has any big heatsink/fan setups that fit in, please let me know, i race in a hot climate and we gear the 17.5s tall

thanks for any advice you have and thanks for all the posts in these threads that have helped me pick up so much in such a short time, ive already pm'd a few people on here, pete and dan who have been very helpful

Migs

Happy to help.

You won't need any of the TA05 parts (except maybe the battery strap - that is pretty cool).. The TRF501X aluminum diff halves and plates 'do not' require any glue, even though they are not keyed. They only need a little diff grease between them and are held fast by the friction and pressure of the two metal parts. I have raced with the TRF501X diff halves for the past year and can confirm that they are tough as nails and work perfectly.

Dremeling the battery tray should not be necessary. Hard pack LiPO's sit pretty low in the stock tray.. You may need to add some high density adhesive foam to the underside of the TA05 battery strap since it is thinner than the plastic kit strap. The foam works pretty good to fill the gap.

Cooling is not a problem with the right gearing and the heat sink plate included with the DB-01R (make sure the apply computer thermal grease to the metal surface between the motor mount and the heat sink plate). I have had good success keeping my temps low with a Novak 6.5T and a Durga body 'without' the hot weather cut.. The only cuts I made were to the intake and outake vents in the body design. I then covered these with fly screen to keep out debris. - I race outdoors on a hard dirt track in Southern California during the summer and can still keep my motor temps on the lower side. You mentioned gearing tall which should still be OK if you are club racing. Races in the USA run 5min a piece (we run 2 qualifiers and a final). At 5min, gearing can be pushed up a bit.

The center one-way is awesome if you run off-road on lower grip surfaces (such as dirt). This is when it can really shine to improve handling. It won't really do much if you race on indoor high grip surfaces like tarmac or carpet. The front one-way is used instead for high grip indoor conditions.

Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Cool thanks, i guess the needs of a mod a mod runner using 6.5 is different to that of a 17.5 runner, ive not heard of the 501x diff halves being aluminium unless ur referring to the 3 Racing HD ones, but either way my aim in building this car is to have it light in the drive train as possible, which reduces rotational mass, so the thing will accelerate quicker and have a better top speed, so the plastic outdrives will be better than aluminium and much better than steel outdrives, same deal with the ta05 layshaft, i guess i really just want to know if it can be done, and unless its something that wont work, its worth trying because it all the little weight savings will add up

The dremelling, again, is it an issue? i think all the nubs on the chassis there are non structural, they dont make the chassis stronger or stiffer, they're there to hold nimh batts in place, i'll be running lipo with a dead flat bottom, so having it sit as low as possible in the chassis is always better

Our racing is also 5 mins, to get the best out of the 17.5s we gear them right up to the limit, so cooling is always an issue, that computer themal grease idea is a great one, i guess i'll put in whatever heat sink i have now that fits and check temps and go from there, the big motor mount is like a big heat sink, so you could be right in that this car probably should naturally run a little cooler than others because of its design

Again, thanks for all your help with all this, i guess what im looking for is for someone to say "no migs the ta05 diff wont work for this reason" or "dont dremel the chassis because of this", i want this car to be the best is can be in 17.5, all these little things will help it be that

Hi Migs, there's no issue with dremelling the lugs out of the chassis, I know at least one person who has done it to accomodate a fat lipo (only to discover that changing to the TA05 battery brace would have solved the problem!) Whether it will give you a noticable improvement I don't know sorry.

I'm also unable to comment on the TA05 diffs, they should fit fine but as I run 6.5 I just wanted the durability of the TRF501/511 outdrives, same for the layshaft as I would always run a slipper.

And finally, I've never had cooling problems and have never cut any vents out but that's mainly to stop the rain and mud getting in! I have a standard DB01 chassis and motor mount, so no extra cooling from them either.

Good looking out my friend, although I already have those 2 holes sealed up, but I understand that dirt/sand may be able to get through the front and rear compartments where the ball diffs settle into. I guess sand can get through those plastic belt tension adjuster pieces. I'm pretty sure if I'm able to get those sealed up (Any suggestions for this , will be appreciated as always.:)), My DB-01 will be virtually sand proof to the bone. This will be great for the summer while running it through sand hills and jumps out in the dunes. So much fun especially with the power of BL/Lipo combined. The buggy acts as if nothing can stop it, as it cruises like a hovercraft across the hills and over the jumps which I'm able to get about 15 or so feet in the air and a distance of about 25 feet. The best part about screwing up a landing at those distances is the fact that no damage occurs, due to the soft cushioned impact. Can't wait for the warm weather to roll around as I always am. :thumbsup:

cool, thanks for the tips, it seems no one has real problems keeping the motor cool in the db01, thats good news, the big motor mount / heat sink thing that comes with the db01r should mean i wont have a drama, maybe just run a little heat sink i have hanging around.

The ta05 bits i'll research a bit more but if i dont need big cooling, then i can leave the slipper in

Could anyone kindly let me know if the Associated (B44) front hex wheel adapters work on the DB01 as well as the rear axle blue spacer? I assume the rear body wing from the B44 works for the DB01, but if anyone knows first hand i would greatly appreciate it. I will provide the links for the parts that I'm referring to.... Thanks Guys.

Front hex adapters-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9750&category=3010.b44xx

Rear axle spacers-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9608&category=3010.b44xx

Rear wing/spoiler-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9772&category=3010.b44xx :)
http://www.oople.com/forums/images/misc/progress.gif http://www.oople.com/forums/images/buttons/edit.gif

The front hex wheel adapters do not fit (I believe it was a difference between the metric and standard measurements of the two parts). I tried them once when I was desperate and the diameter was too small to fit the axle.

I would assume that the rear blue spacers would also not work - but I have not tested them.

The rear B44 wing works just fine since you can mark and ream the mounting holes yourself. I have used a few B44 rear wings when I needed a replacement for racing.


The only proper parts to substitute the hex adapters are either the original Tamiya part, the 3rd party direct replacement adapter from Tobee Craft, or the 12mm hex adapter kits from Tobee Craft or Yeah Racing [yup, Tobee Craft makes "2" different hex adapter replacements for the DB-01].

If you need links for these parts, please let me know.

Anyone know? Thanks!

Radio is personal preference, 2.4ghz (of any brand) gives you the advantage of no more frequency clashes & less chance of interference. Beyond that no other advantages and the only disadvantage is the additional cost.

Best bet is to see who's got what down your local club and ask if you can hold a few transmitters to see what feels comfortable (and lets not go near the debate over which is better wheel or stick!!!)

Dimblum is exactly correct, the axle on the tamiya is a metric axle, and all they did was make a hex to fit losi rims but with a metric hole, the problem is if u want to run the jconcepts rims, as i would like to, the hex is not deep enough and the wheel then fouls on the hub,i had the same problem on my zx5, the only way to get the b44 hex to work is to drill out the centre hole to the axle size (preferred) or dremel it out til it fits (not perfect but it works). then it will allow you to run the jconcepts/associated rims on the front, the other way to do it is to place some shims in between the hex and the wheel before tightening it up, though im not a fan of that method, it means the hex doesnt sit fully in the rim and theres more potential for stripping out the rim that way. there may be an aftermarket hex that has a deeper hex but i've not found it, if there is one, that would no doubt be the best option

oh sorry back on the cooling topic again, ive realised that the db01r still just comes with the standard cast motor mount and not the nice blue aluminium one which is meant to provide better cooling, has anyone switched to the aluminium blue motor mount and noticed a real benefit at all? its an expensive item as we all know but if it does improve temps, i'll put it on my wishlist

Hey, thanks Dinblum and Migs. I appreciate you help considering that I was very close to making a purchase on all the items I listed. Well it looks like I'll be ordering the rear wing only considering Losi/AE warehouse sells them for less than what the tamiya kit issued wings are sold for. A little disappointing to hear that only the wing is adaptable but I'll get over it, lol. I shouldn't have any problems locating the Tobee products , but I appreciate your offer Dinblum. I'll let you know if i have any problems. Thanks again. :thumbsup:

cool AJ, just be careful too, the 12mm hex will allow ur car to run touring car rims, not the associated ones, lol, easiest option is to just stick with the tamiya or losi rims as they both work no probs, myself, i'll be drilling out some b44 hexes to fit on the front of my db01r so it will look slick running the jconcept rulux rims. catchya

oh im pretty sure ive seen this answered before but cant find it right now, anyone have a part number for the plastic diff nut holder, i can only find it on parts trees and not as its own part, maybe its the only way i can buy them

If it's the same as the 501x, then most people just use the 'all-in-one' unit taken from a Tamiya touring car. (I've forgotten which particular model. 415 I think.)


A quick search in the Tamiya forum may be your best bet.
:thumbsup:

Julius.

I have often wondered about the hex issue with the J-Concept wheels.. So far I have 'not' had any problems with the wheels rubbing against the uprights when I mount them to my DB-01. My friend that runs his 511X on the other hand 'did' need to shim out his mounts to use the J-Concept wheels without them rubbing. It seems a little hit & miss??

I agree 100% that the J-Concept wheels are awesome and they look great on the DB-01.

P.S. Just to check, I will see if the Tobee Craft direct replacement hexes (-not- the 12mm ones) are any thicker than the stock Tamiya hexes.